Author Topic: Lower Steering Coupler Replacement? (Read 5235 times)

318idol · « **on:** June 09, 2007, 08:24:29 PM »

Anyone done this? Does the rack have to loosened up? I just wonder how you can slip the new coupler in place without either lowering the rack or lifting up the steering column shaft. It does look like the lower part of the steering shaft has a large nut that locks the lower portion in place, and it appears if you loosen that big nut the lower part of the steering shaft will telescope up.

But I'm not sure...

Gary

AL GReeNeRy · « **Reply #1 on:** June 11, 2007, 12:54:49 AM »

been wondering this too. im trying to replace the rag joint, mines cracked badly. i was thinkin we might not have to drop the rack entirely, because where it bolts to tha frame there are slots. maybe we can juss slide it out just enough to pull off the coupler??

318idol · « **Reply #2 on:** June 11, 2007, 11:35:34 PM »

I agree, but I should have an ace professional tech answer by tomorrow, from my friends at bimmerhaus in Broomfield, Colo. http://www.bimmerhaus.com

You can't simply replace the rag joint, as the rubber "rag" is riveted in place as part of the lower u-joint coupler assembly, a $135 part. My lower U-joint is worn, which rattles like hell on certain road surfaces and pot holes. Considering the importance of this part, it's best we fit ours!

ecpreston · « **Reply #3 on:** June 12, 2007, 08:03:34 AM »

I haven't done it on an m42 yet, but on an m10, you loosen it up and then yes, unbolt the rack and slide it forward 'till it hits the oil pan. That's enough space to work the joint out of there. It's really not too bad, just make some marks so you get the steering wheel lined up as best you can when you put it back together. I would think the m42 oil pan leaves enough room for this to work.

AL GReeNeRy · « **Reply #4 on:** June 13, 2007, 02:33:34 AM »

Quote from: 318idol;27592

I agree, but I should have an ace professional tech answer by tomorrow, from my friends at bimmerhaus in Broomfield, Colo. http://www.bimmerhaus.com

You can't simply replace the rag joint, as the rubber "rag" is riveted in place as part of the lower u-joint coupler assembly, a $135 part. My lower U-joint is worn, which rattles like hell on certain road surfaces and pot holes. Considering the importance of this part, it's best we fit ours!

on e30tech there is a write up for a rack swap to an e36 rack and spacers are required on the coupler. the same procedure can be applied to regular couplers to replace the rag joint. basically you cut the rivets and replace em with nuts/bolts and loctite. i have a new urethane rag joint from IE which i will be replacing my old cracked one with soon. ill let ya know how it goes.

318idol · « **Reply #5 on:** June 13, 2007, 11:44:54 AM »

Nice insight. I'll check out the site. Of course replacing the entire rack involves completely removing it. I want to know if you can replace the coupler by just loosening the rack and lowering it enought to slip out the coupler. I haven't heard back from my 30+ years experience veteran tech. Should today.

I guess you could drill out the rivets and use bolts to hold the rag joint in. What's different about the IE joint?

Cristian G in Oz · « **Reply #6 on:** June 13, 2007, 10:08:33 PM »

I recently went through all this, but I replaced my rag disk with a nolathane item from an Isuzu Gemini (Holden in Oz).

You can get the whole steering coupling out without undoing the rack, providing of course that the joints have not welded themselves in, but putting it in may be different.

With mine I replaced the rivets with bolts, but the nolathane disk was thinner then the rag disk so I had to space it out with wishers to the right �length� to get it all to fit. I ended up loosening off the rack so it would move a little then put the coupling back in. After a few trial and error fittings to get the coupling length right I tightened up the rack again and good as gold.

So, to sum up.
   - You may be able to do it without undoing the rack if using a factory replacement disk.
   - You may have to loosen the mounting bolts on the rack to get it all back in.
   - Be prepared for 1.5 to 2 hours (out to in) if the couplings decide not to play the game.

It is all well achievable by the home mechanic and does not need specialist tools.

PM me if you want more detailed info.

Good luck

Cristian

KenC · « **Reply #7 on:** June 14, 2007, 01:16:29 AM »

Quote from: 318idol;27592

My lower U-joint is worn, which rattles like hell on certain road surfaces and pot holes. Considering the importance of this part, it's best we fit ours!

Any one have a picture of this part? My new 318is rattles over rough roads sometimes.

nickmpower · « **Reply #8 on:** June 24, 2007, 04:08:00 PM »

it attaches the rack to the steering column. Jiggle it around and you should know if its that