Author Topic: The mess under the intake (Read 330855 times)

D. Clay · « **Reply #75 on:** November 27, 2007, 11:20:30 AM »

Make it look OEM. Shorten the studs and use hoses with appropriate fittings and connectors. Most likely they will never notice. They will if it looks like "homemade sin".

tjts1 · « **Reply #76 on:** November 27, 2007, 11:27:04 AM »

Quote from: D. Clay;38437

Make it look OEM. Shorten the studs and use hoses with appropriate fittings and connectors. Most likely they will never notice. They will if it looks like "homemade sin".

The problem is the smog techs here in California have a book right there in the shop showing them exactly how things are supposed to look including part numbers. Sometimes they pay attention, sometimes they don't. I'm holding on to the heater plate just in case.

E30nate · « **Reply #77 on:** November 27, 2007, 01:00:09 PM »

Quote from: tjts1;38438

The problem is the smog techs here in California have a book right there in the shop showing them exactly how things are supposed to look including part numbers. Sometimes they pay attention, sometimes they don't. I'm holding on to the heater plate just in case.

thats what i was thinking. i will keep the parts just in case, but i live in a small town with one smog shop. if he says anything i can probably buy him a 12 pack and call it good. but if not, i will have to put it back to stock.

DaveM-sport · « **Reply #78 on:** November 27, 2007, 03:10:06 PM »

Removed the heater plates over the weekend. Simple 15min job:)

I like the idea of venting the crankcase gases into the exhaust for an added vacuum.

Just wondering, whats the small pipe that goes in at an angle to the throttle body just underneath the sensor plug.

Just have a blank on both of my cars. Is this something to do with the CAT that ye need to have:confused:

teamgtnfx01 · « **Reply #79 on:** December 06, 2007, 10:31:44 PM »

i wish i would have seen this thread early because i just took my manifold off today got it beed blasted and clear coated it and replace all those dumb annoying hoses and lines .... wut a bitch it was to do and it was like a puzzle that wa unsolvable wut a pain and now i see this that u don't even realy need all those hoses, im so mad right now but i must say if i was to do it again it wouldn't take as long because that dam throttle plate is getting thrown in the bottle of my tool box and it would be so easy to put everything together with out those dam four way hoses...

jakeb · « **Reply #80 on:** December 07, 2007, 09:42:36 AM »

Quick question. Is the coolant that is coming out of the head that then goes into the plate the same temp (or close to it) of the temp of the coolant at the gauge temp sensor? I am planning a 2002 swap and I would bypass all these hoses as well. Most of them on my swap engine look bad, but it would be nice to put a temp sensor in the bypass hose to run my coolant gauge. It will be a autometer gauge.

n2motorsports · « **Reply #81 on:** December 14, 2007, 01:41:56 PM »

I want to eliminate all these hoses tonight, will I need any TORX bits to get to those hoses?

Thanks.

HaNasich · « **Reply #82 on:** December 15, 2007, 11:50:59 AM »

Quote from: n2motorsports;39450

I want to eliminate all these hoses tonight, will I need any TORX bits to get to those hoses?

Thanks.

No torx in the game.
i just took apart the inlet intake today from my M42, only 10,11,12 and 13 were used, all metrics.
no torx.

Ron.

Asserti · « **Reply #83 on:** March 05, 2008, 11:00:47 AM »

So, any updates on this?

Capping the nipple at the cilinder head off or not? Anyone with troubles this winter or not? Adding the oil pickup or not?

Seems very interesting to do, but I'm a bit sceptic for doing things not the OEM way.

n2motorsports · « **Reply #84 on:** March 05, 2008, 11:21:00 AM »

I capped it without any issues, but we have very mild winters here in southern california.

ClodKing · « **Reply #85 on:** April 25, 2008, 04:57:27 PM »

Any more updates on this??

The heater plates are what I am most curious about... Since I live in Canada these might be usefull to me...

You guys were saying they were meant for temperatures below 0 degrees. Was that Celcious, or Farenheit???

Because it's dropped down to -20C with the windchill, so I might want to keep those plates...

nomad · « **Reply #86 on:** April 26, 2008, 12:19:04 PM »

You can bypass it without really removing the heater plate. Just bypass it with the hoses and reassemble everything the way it was. If you are really worried though, just buy some new OEM hoses and leave it as is.

I bypassed mine and removed all that stuff. I used a new OEM hose that goes to the center coolant nipple but wrapped it in vulcanizing tape and bent it to fit. I'll be checking on it periodically. But I'm interested in capping it off as seen above.

So what did you use to cap it off? They sell those at the auto part store or the hardware store?

bmwpower · « **Reply #87 on:** April 27, 2008, 09:59:38 AM »

I would not use a cap unless is was reinforced.

txleadfoot · « **Reply #88 on:** May 06, 2008, 05:49:31 PM »

I second that. I've pulled two and both have been cracked.

Quote from: christophbmw;25557

replace that plastic coolant junction piece now while you can! they are really chea from the dealer.....and dont forget the o-ring that goes with it.

batsbats · « **Reply #89 on:** May 23, 2008, 03:36:56 PM »

OK, so I decided to go this route instead of just changing all the cracked lines like I was originally planning. Looks sooo much cleaner with just the plastic tube and the one coolant line from the block to the the plastic tube.

Man, so much gunk in the ports and lower manifold! What's good to clean them out? Brake cleaner + brush?

Also I live in NJ, so I guess I'll guinea and let you guys know if I run into problems down the line in the winter. I'll be keeping the heater stuff in case one bitter morning the throttle ices up.