Author Topic: The mess under the intake (Read 330804 times)

aworthybrother · « **Reply #300 on:** March 03, 2011, 12:02:43 PM »

can somebody please verify which is better:

Capping off the water outlet or put a bypass hose? Thanks

or this?

aworthybrother · « **Reply #301 on:** March 03, 2011, 05:10:27 PM »

To summarize the mess under the intake, could somebody please verify if this is correct?

The blue dots will be "capped off".
The blue lines will be the new hoses to replace the mess

blalor · « **Reply #302 on:** March 03, 2011, 09:55:36 PM »

Quote from: aworthybrother;101979

To summarize the mess under the intake, could somebody please verify if this is correct?

The blue dots will be "capped off".
The blue lines will be the new hoses to replace the mess

That's what I understand to be correct.

Also, cross-posted from r3vlimited.com:

Quote from: blalor

I found a workable solution for the hose that goes from the plastic coolant junction on the block to the head:

It's hose #18 in this diagram, part number 11531714636:

It's a little bit short, but doesn't collapse or kink when connected. The hose does push up against the coolant temp sensor connector, hence the loose zip-tie to keep the hose under it.

I replaced all of my hoses about a year ago, but decided to try this mod because I think I've got a vacuum leak.

blalor · « **Reply #303 on:** March 05, 2011, 04:16:58 PM »

So, I de-messed the area under the intake. No change in how the car runs (horrible cold start, lousy idle until warm), but I guess I didn't expect much, since I'd replaced all the hoses a year ago. It is easier to get the upper intake and throttle body off without that stupid coolant line, however.

I ended up putting the heater plate back on. My intake boot is stiff with age (and now partially torn) and I couldn't get the boot to line up correctly with the MAF box and the throttle body; I need to space the throttle body back out from the intake. I'm going to order a replacement boot, but I'm wondering if anyone else had that problem.

jrobie79 · « **Reply #304 on:** March 05, 2011, 07:34:11 PM »

hey blalor did you check this thread....might solve those idle issues:

http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7757

check out post #6 and a couple after that one....

GL

blalor · « **Reply #305 on:** March 06, 2011, 05:28:01 PM »

Quote from: jrobie79;102054

hey blalor did you check this thread....might solve those idle issues:

http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7757

check out post #6 and a couple after that one....

GL

Thanks, but my problems are with hard starting and rough idle when cold. It's pretty good when warm. I'll keep reading, tho, and check that wire on my car just for kicks.

Bimmer805 · « **Reply #306 on:** March 28, 2011, 12:15:15 PM »

Quote from: aworthybrother;101965

can somebody please verify which is better:

Capping off the water outlet or put a bypass hose? Thanks

or this?

On my M42 i capped off the ports with bypass caps from my local autoparts store and everything seems fine and not overheating whatsoever but after you do the mod you HAVE to bleed the coolant system or else your needle will be kissing the redmark.

monty23psk · « **Reply #307 on:** April 08, 2011, 07:06:51 AM »

I am doing this on my car currently and noticed the flow for the vaccum section is different than the consensus of how to hook it up. The consensus is ICV > rubber boot elbow and front of valve cover > throttle body. If you follow the stock flow, the front of the valve cover hose connect to the hose that has the coolant line coming into it and the up to the rubber elbow, not the throttle body. Was the consensus more for looks. In the end, it is just air and there should be vaccum at both points, elbow and throttle body, just not sure if there is a difference. Anyone running the same flow as stock?

stillmatick · « **Reply #308 on:** May 11, 2011, 02:01:08 AM »

is it best to cap or use the hose way?

DesktopDave · « **Reply #309 on:** May 11, 2011, 07:54:27 AM »

I'd do the hose instead. I'm not sure about how long a cap would last.

stillmatick · « **Reply #310 on:** May 11, 2011, 08:28:14 AM »

Quote from: DesktopDave;103737

I'd do the hose instead. I'm not sure about how long a cap would last.

what size hose do i need? because looking at oem hose one side is bigger than the other? or should I use the oem hose because it actually can reach to the head nipple.

stillmatick · « **Reply #311 on:** May 11, 2011, 08:32:18 AM »

yeah oem hose would work,fucken sweet.

Gerta318is · « **Reply #312 on:** June 23, 2011, 01:14:39 AM »

Anybody in the Seattle/Lynnwood area want to drop by and give me a hand with the mess under the intake? Beer/Pizza in it for somebody who is of age and has skills.

Shoot me a PM or an email kmmorrin@gmail.com.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #313 on:** June 24, 2011, 09:01:04 PM »

Wrong coast, unfortunately. It's on my short list as well, that's for sure. I found a coolant leak under there a week ago & the car's been parked since then.

Gerta318is · « **Reply #314 on:** June 25, 2011, 12:04:22 PM »

Where to start ... every single hose cracked or split. Injectors look to have an 1/8th of an inch of carbon ... plastic coolant outlet broken in foward end (note plastic piece stuck in block) ... All the fuel lines are worn too ... carbon and dried oil everywhere.