Author Topic: Has anyone swapped a Japanese motor? (Read 11223 times)

fabe · « **Reply #15 on:** April 29, 2007, 08:38:53 PM »

BMW-Jap crossbreed is a norm here in Malaysia... For E30, The SR20DET and RB20DET from Nissan and Toyota Supra's 1JZ are the usual engines to be swapped into the engine bays. It does give good and cheap horsepower. I've driven one with SR20DET and it's fast. Clocked a 6.5sec 0-60mph using the Gtech Pro. However, it doesn't have the feel of a BMW anymore. the clutch feel is different, so is the gearshift, amongst other things...

And if not done properly, it's more difficult to troubleshoot cos is a crossbreed ..

nickmpower · « **Reply #16 on:** April 29, 2007, 09:32:28 PM »

the s2000 engine would be amazing

318is91 · « **Reply #17 on:** April 29, 2007, 11:05:21 PM »

I always wanted too put a s2000 motor in a striped out first gen rx-7. and looked at buying one from a freind but they are just too expensive of a honda engine. kinda like the vr6 of hondas. i also considered a turbo honda b18 into a porsche 914 mmm but then i found my bmw

Febi Guibo · « **Reply #18 on:** April 30, 2007, 12:32:42 PM »

I am *extremely* excited about this:

I know, well, nothing about these engines or rotary mazda's in general, but in my quest to put an array of ever *smaller* engines into an E30... this has to take the cake...

Can anybody fill me in on the 13B rotary engines? Let's hear it!

There is SO MUCH friggin room in the engine bay... imagine the turbo plumbing etc. etc. I'll stop now.

haledj · « **Reply #19 on:** April 30, 2007, 01:01:29 PM »

I am no rotary expert so dont take any of this as rock hard fact.

We just rebuilt a 13b for our RX-7 race car. The 13b is a little larger than the 12a 1300cc vs 1100cc. Apparently it is easier to build the 12a to more power with NA, and the 13b is useless without a turbo. I am sure that tere are exceptions to any of this. I would love to have a wankel powered e30. Even if you cant get more power out of it, the sound, weight savings, lowered cg, an else would be worth it.

Oh and even though mazda made the engines, Wankel was a German, so it is legit.

Febi Guibo · « **Reply #20 on:** April 30, 2007, 01:42:12 PM »

can you post any more info or deets. I truly know as much about these little engines as I do about... well, I know very little.

The fellow with the project car pictured claims with the twin barrel weber he is right around 200 hp...

I would happily go turbo however!

highlandmiata · « **Reply #21 on:** April 30, 2007, 02:08:49 PM »

well when you truly know nothing, there is always wikipedia

Febi Guibo · « **Reply #22 on:** April 30, 2007, 03:26:30 PM »

thanks I got the wiki... which is, btw, never ever factually incorrect or biased!

Donkeyshins · « **Reply #23 on:** April 30, 2007, 03:37:59 PM »

I think with how much it would most likely cost to do a VTEC motor install into a BMW (engine management, custom exhaust, any other plumbing to be rerouted, the engine itself, etc.), it would probably be easier and cheaper to simply buy the 2100 Rally motor from Metric Mechanic. All that requires is a chip, an empty engine bay and $9k in liquid funds from what I understand.

Of course, I'm the freak who wants to put an M47 in his 318i, so I just need to go sit in the corner and think about what I've said...

-D

Lord Jax · « **Reply #24 on:** April 30, 2007, 04:25:26 PM »

Quote from: Stoggs;24771

I would also think that the internals of an engine built for boost would be stronger than that of an NA engine like the KA?

Well back when I had my 240sx I looked into doing an SR swap, but found thyat the KA was cheaper to turn into a turbo and a lot more reliable since parts are cheap and plentiful. And remember it's an iron block because it's a truck motor from the early 90's. I would think a truck motor had beefier internals than the sr20det.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KA24DE

Gunni · « **Reply #25 on:** April 30, 2007, 06:06:17 PM »

I�ll be pushing out about 300-330hp from the CA18DET
the engine will be TOTALLY rebuilt, new clutch and plate, flywheel as well,
new turbo kit, standalone, new exhaust, new intercooler setup,
new this and new that, gasket set

the total cost looks to be around $5k for the WHOLE swap including buying the engine having it rebuilt and everything else I listed,
about $6.4k for the whole car, new suspension, this engine conversion, new wheels, tires, complete set of powerflex bushings,

Now that is a nice bargain for about 1200kg�s and 300hp.
thats 220kw�s and 2666lbs , ALL NEW. almost.
I�m saying 1200kg�s as I�m not sure what the weight will be , but a
M42 E30 weighs about 2550lbs(1150kg)

Lord Jax · « **Reply #26 on:** April 30, 2007, 06:10:07 PM »

Quote from: Gunni;24868

I�ll be pushing out about 300-330hp from the CA18DET
the engine will be TOTALLY rebuilt, new clutch and plate, flywheel as well,
new turbo kit, standalone, new exhaust, new intercooler setup,
new this and new that, gasket set

the total cost looks to be around $5k for the WHOLE swap including buying the engine having it rebuilt and everything else I listed,
about $6.4k for the whole car, new suspension, this engine conversion, new wheels, tires, complete set of powerflex bushings,

Now that is a nice bargain for about 1200kg�s and 300hp.
thats 220kw�s and 2666lbs , ALL NEW. almost.
I�m saying 1200kg�s as I�m not sure what the weight will be , but a
M42 E30 weighs about 2550lbs(1150kg)

Pictures and video asap please

Alpine003 · « **Reply #27 on:** April 30, 2007, 09:12:42 PM »

Quote from: Febi Guibo;24840

I am *extremely* excited about this:

I know, well, nothing about these engines or rotary mazda's in general, but in my quest to put an array of ever *smaller* engines into an E30... this has to take the cake...

Can anybody fill me in on the 13B rotary engines? Let's hear it!

There is SO MUCH friggin room in the engine bay... imagine the turbo plumbing etc. etc. I'll stop now.

1.3L of revving fury. There are a few guys in Cali that have this conversion on E30's and 2002's. 12a and 13b's are capable of making decent power(200 and above like you said), but the problem lies in the fact that you really need to put it into a light car(under 2k lbs) due to the lack of torque. Also when you're talking over 200 NA hp the motor will have to be spun to some crazy rpms making Honduhs look like Duramax diesels or something.

IMO, having this motor in a car above 2k lbs might suffice for track duties where you'll always be in the high rev band but won't be too great on the streets. Of course you can always try the 20b rotary(Edit: 3 rotors not 4 rotors) from the Mazda Cosmos and the like, to make up for the torque band.

Also once you apply one of the many famous porting jobs to the rotary, you can expect low double digit fuel economy, especially on a carb setup.

Depending on the motor build and type of usage, expect it to last from 25-50k miles before you have to freshen it and most likely service or r&r the apex seals.

Gunni · « **Reply #28 on:** May 01, 2007, 05:57:59 AM »

torque isn�t a concern neither are rpm�s
just look at the HP curve and then adjust the final gearing to accomidate,
i.e 200hp in a 3000lbs at about 40mph should be fine, and then 65mph and so on

Alpine003 · « **Reply #29 on:** May 01, 2007, 01:07:46 PM »

Quote from: Gunni;24924

torque isn�t a concern neither are rpm�s
just look at the HP curve and then adjust the final gearing to accomidate,
i.e 200hp in a 3000lbs at about 40mph should be fine, and then 65mph and so on

Are you referring to the rotaries? I'm not sure I follow. If you looked at the many exotic ported rotary dyno sheets, they tend to be very peaky for the most part.

Author Topic: Has anyone swapped a Japanese motor? (Read 11223 times)

318is91

highlandmiata

Lord Jax

Lord Jax