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Author Topic: oily spark plug.  (Read 5234 times)

highlandmiata

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oily spark plug.
« on: April 10, 2007, 04:09:48 PM »
So I was starting down the path of finding a misfire/ hesitation... I replaced the spark plugs from bumper back. #1 had a trace of oil on it, #2 had more. #3 and #4 looked good.  

How worried should I be getting about those #1 and #2 plugs? is it something that will soon require a rebuild (the engine only has 103k, but unknown maintenance history) of is it something that I should forget about, or is there an additive that will do more good than harm? The car does not push blue smoke, though the exhaust smells a bit rich...

So was this a cause or an effect of the misfire? should I still be replacing coilpacks and wires? (so expensive!)

Thanks.
Jason
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badboypolar

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oily spark plug.
« Reply #1 on: April 10, 2007, 04:49:35 PM »
Wires should be too bad, however the coilpacks... ehhh. Oil in the cylinder can be the cause of many issues, one of which is loose head bolts. I'd recommend getting them check and if needed torqued back to spec.

And you might want to replace the O2 sensor. Funny how many times this gets over looked but they are only good for about 50k miles, some say less but I disagree.
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highlandmiata

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oily spark plug.
« Reply #2 on: April 10, 2007, 05:03:22 PM »
any way to test an O2 sensor without replacing it?
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Shocker

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oily spark plug.
« Reply #3 on: April 10, 2007, 05:38:10 PM »
Quote from: highlandmiata;23430
So I was starting down the path of finding a misfire/ hesitation... I replaced the spark plugs from bumper back. #1 had a trace of oil on it, #2 had more. #3 and #4 looked good.  

How worried should I be getting about those #1 and #2 plugs? is it something that will soon require a rebuild (the engine only has 103k, but unknown maintenance history) of is it something that I should forget about, or is there an additive that will do more good than harm? The car does not push blue smoke, though the exhaust smells a bit rich...

So was this a cause or an effect of the misfire? should I still be replacing coilpacks and wires? (so expensive!)

Thanks.
Jason



If its oil in the spark plug holes you need a new valve cover gasket along with the gaskets the go around the spark plug holes
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highlandmiata

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oily spark plug.
« Reply #4 on: April 10, 2007, 08:00:50 PM »
Quote from: Shocker;23438
If its oil in the spark plug holes you need a new valve cover gasket along with the gaskets the go around the spark plug holes


hard to say where it was exactly. on #1 it was more likely in the hole i guess, as it was more on the threads than on the plug tip. on #2 maybe there was so much oil that the tip got wet too... to tell you the truth, changing out those gaskets would be most welcome compared to new rings...
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Alpine003

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oily spark plug.
« Reply #5 on: April 11, 2007, 12:23:30 PM »


4,5
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bmwman91

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oily spark plug.
« Reply #6 on: April 11, 2007, 12:38:40 PM »
Yeah, if you had the head gasket blown or shot rings, you would see blue smoke for sure.  The MOST common reason for oil in the holes is trashed valve cover gaskets.  Replace them all, it was a very worthwhile endeavor on my part.

My article on cylinder head thread repair has the PN's for the gaskets you need...3 different ones and a total of 5.
http://bmw.e30tuner.com/articles_vchc.php

Good luck!  And remember, only tighten the valve cover bolts by hand, about as tight as you can get them with one hand on an extension for a 3/8" drive ratchet!
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highlandmiata

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oily spark plug.
« Reply #7 on: April 11, 2007, 12:44:34 PM »
Quote from: Alpine003;23529


4,5


huh?


I checked the engine light. it says 1215, which pelican seems to think means the  MAF is showing a fault. which follows, since I did replace the air filter, which required touching something close to the meter, which sounds like it is ridiculously fragile... I'll check to see if I bumped the wire or cracked a hose or something... can these things be cleaned?  anyway... the hemorrhaging continues.
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bmwman91

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oily spark plug.
« Reply #8 on: April 11, 2007, 01:32:08 PM »
When it hesitates, it is at part-throttle / low load conditions?  Does it go away when you accelerate relatively hard?  If so then it woulds like the AFM to me.  Mine was almost un-driveable until I remedied the problem (aka MAF conversion).
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highlandmiata

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oily spark plug.
« Reply #9 on: April 11, 2007, 01:39:31 PM »
Quote from: bmwman91;23535
When it hesitates, it is at part-throttle / low load conditions?  Does it go away when you accelerate relatively hard?  If so then it woulds like the AFM to me.  Mine was almost un-driveable until I remedied the problem (aka MAF conversion).


yes, it does. it also dies if i let it drop to idle. this is all new yesterday, post air filter... I was reading about your maf conversion. hope I am not forced to do it like that though.
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highlandmiata

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oily spark plug.
« Reply #10 on: April 11, 2007, 02:13:31 PM »
the picture works now. please disregard the 'huh?'
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bmwman91

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oily spark plug.
« Reply #11 on: April 11, 2007, 03:52:06 PM »
It would probably be easier to find a used AFM.  They are not that sensitive at all to being moved and stuff.  Maybe yours was just about to die anyway and you jostled it over the edge.
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Alpine003

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oily spark plug.
« Reply #12 on: April 11, 2007, 04:31:10 PM »
Quote from: bmwman91;23530
And remember, only tighten the valve cover bolts by hand, about as tight as you can get them with one hand on an extension for a 3/8" drive ratchet!


You must be weak. :p  I would say use a 1/4" ratchet and not tighten them the tightest you can but to tighten them to about 15 ft/lbs if memory serves me correctly. ;)
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highlandmiata

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oily spark plug.
« Reply #13 on: April 11, 2007, 05:03:16 PM »
bad/non running problem solved. it is amazing what a few minutes in the light of day can do. I had a hose that had completely come off.  I put it back on and am back to status quo.  I am still having some hesitation/misfiring, but the car is back to driveable.  Back to chasing that misfire. I am looking at the COP conversion I think.

BMWMAN91, did you consider G10 for the coil mounting plate? I generally like the stuff, even though it is a bitch to machine sometimes, because it is insulative both thermally and electrically... plus it is not corrodible and it can look pretty trick if done well...
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rhogg

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« Reply #14 on: April 11, 2007, 09:58:50 PM »
The valve cover torque is 10 nm or 89 in lb - not very tight!  Did mine Monday night.
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