Author Topic: engine install-coil pack question (Read 2819 times)

dlmrun2002 · « **on:** April 07, 2007, 04:30:31 PM »

So I fianlly got my new rebuilt engine all hooked. She popped right away and that is about it. Keeps popping and some backfiring. Just tested my new magnecor wires. All look good Fire order 1342. Even jumped in extra set of wires that are numbered and still in the old wire loom. I am wondering if the coil pack connectors might be switched. I had them out when I painted the engine bay last fall. Any way to tell by the wire harness for the coil packs or the individual connectors themselves which coil they go to? The back fire leads me to believe maybe one is firng when the exhaust valve is open. Any input would help. It's been along journey of almost a year. I want this little revver to purrrrrrrrr.
Thanks

DLM

PS. I figured howto maintain original wire harness with Magnecor 8.5 mm wires. I ran wire #4 thru side of wire loom,coming off of cylinder haed. Just a little snip on the plastic gave the length and room I needed.

dlmrun2002 · « **Reply #1 on:** April 07, 2007, 08:17:23 PM »

Nevermind. It was a crossed sparkplug wire... Minus that it went flawlessly.. She is running great minus cooling system bleed. Now for the EZ stuff---------brakes-suspension..And I get to paint it too!!
DLM

bmwman91 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 08, 2007, 11:43:57 AM »

Glad you figured it out. It can be a real pain to figure out which connector goes to which coil sometimes. Good luck with the rest of the rebuild!

dlmrun2002 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 08, 2007, 01:49:09 PM »

She's running solid. Obviously since it's been a year, I suspect the service interval batteries are dirt napping-dead. Thus no tach and economy gauge. Seems to be idling high. Not sure how high since I have no tach. And when it warms up it gets to a point where the engine idle oscillates every 2 second approximately. I'm thinking 02 sensor but I just started looking into it. Any input woul dbe greatly appreciated. Oustdide of that, she is solid ,no oil leaks,no prestone leeks, warms up nicely and holds steady temperature.

bmwman91 · « **Reply #4 on:** April 08, 2007, 02:13:05 PM »

The crappy idle is usually due to a couple things. I guess without a gauge cluster it could be tougher to troubleshoot. How long does it warm up before idling badly? It could be the O2 sensor depending on that.

dlmrun2002 · « **Reply #5 on:** April 08, 2007, 02:41:53 PM »

Well after a few minutes it starts to vary. My tach is back. Blown fuse. It is oscillating between 1500 and 1800 rpm. Idling high to Around 1200 rpm..