Check engine, stomp test not working

[Nick_318is]

Hi guys, got my car out a few weeks ago and on the first drive I got a couple check engine lights at steady state throttle, as soon as I accelerated/decelerated it turned off and the car was driving fine. I came home, stomp tested: 1215, so I figure its some sort of vacuum/intake leak. Next time I drive it the car starts with a check engine light, it's on all the time and now the stomp test won't work and the car is idling poorly.

Reading on the stomp test not working it seems it could be a TPS, but I put a new one on today, still no stomp test and steady check engine light. Also installed new ICV, checked all vacuum lines, and tried a different AFM along side mine after getting it back from Bavarian Restoration. I'm stumped. How can I get the code(s), what else can it be, should I try one of my other ECUs?

[monty23psk]

Did you reset the ECU after swapping the parts. Some codes won't clear themselves.

[Nick_318is]

I tried to reset the light but no go, still no codes coming out either. Doing the disconnect the battery thing, will try again tomorrow.

[monty23psk]

if you reset the light  before you turn it on, then it should stay off until the code trips. unplugging battery for 15 min will do the same and more of a sure thing. Let us know how it goes.

[Nick_318is]

Let the car sit overnight without the battery hooked up, no dice, still lit up, still wont show me any codes.

[monty23psk]

Do you have a way to pull codes with another device? I would search on the other e30 forums on why stomp test is not working. I have heard the module for this can get bad solders. how is the throttle cable, maybe not hitting the contact to start the test. Check ETM to see if there is a fuse or something related to the stomp test

[Nick_318is]

Sorry for the delayed answer, been on vacation. I've done some more research and tried a couple more things. I tried an alternate ECU I have today and still have the issue.

Searching the web everything points to the TPS being the issue, I got out the Bentley and do the tests for it, the sensor itself returns expected values. Decided to pull back the harness covering and take a look, think I found the problem, ground wire is broken from the connector.


I'm not much of a wiring guy, what is my best course to re-connect to the connector, how do I get the pin out and what do I need to properly rebuild the pin?

[monty23psk]

get a de-pin tool. If you were local, I would lend you it. You can try one or two tiny flat head screw drivers. You have to enter tool from the other side to push tabs and then slide it out. You will probably need needle nose pliers to pull. With the cable snapped, to do it right, release all 3 connectors, cut the other 2 and use 3 new connectors while crimping new exposed wiring. Not really a pain but properly. You might get away with soldering the ground wire to the connector as well.

[Nick_318is]

Monty thanks for your help, i've gotten most of what I need, except the right terminal for the connector.

I bought pn 12521427612 and while they will fit onto the TPS, they do not fit into the connector housing and are clearly a different style when I compare them next to each other. Looking on real oem I cannot find a picture that matches in the diagrams, do any of you guys happen to know the correct part number?


Is it one of these, maybe 14?

[monty23psk]

Finding the right connectors are a pain. I have sometimes ordered one of each to get an idea. Plug in PN into ECS and you might get a picture. If you measure them, you can look for them on TE Connectivity's website. Could be 14, 15, or 19. Not sure which one 7612 is, so at least you can eliminate one of them. If I had more time, I can search by box of parts as I probably have one of each PN from all the years of ordering and trying to get the right one. Currently out of town until Monday.

[Nick_318is]

Alright, i'm happy to say things have been fixed. 2nd try for connectors from FCP euro and the right ones showed up, incase anyone is interested the PN I used is 12521737772 - it's a flat spring contact.

all wired up:


ready to go:


the best part, no more check engine. thanks for all your help Monty!

[monty23psk]

glad to hear. nice cluster. Looks like Bavrest work?

[Nick_318is]

Yep, I sent it to them over the winter for a refurb and econo gauge swap, loving it, although I do wish the LEDs were a little brighter.

[monty23psk]

I used them 3-4 years ago before he got super popular, lol. Still working great. I swapped out all the LEDs myself before I sent him the cluster (pics in my member thread here on m42club) and while the ones I got don't really dim, the are very bright. I have them on lowest setting just to have them there. The indicators in green really flash you. I can always send you pics or videos if you want to try different options.

[bmwman91]

Nice work! FYI the terminals in all of those rectangular connectors are just standard TE/Amp Junior Power Timer parts. I gotta ask though...how did you get the terminals out? BMW heat-staked the plastic housing so that you can't get the terminals out with just the extractor tool. Did you chop out the heat-staked bits?