Author Topic: ITB's info/projects (Read 147134 times)

sjoerd · « **Reply #135 on:** June 11, 2014, 04:20:43 AM »

and if i would put schrick cams too, can they still ajust the stock ecu to make it run smooth? and would i need anything els than to keep the engine running smooth? i heard stronger valve springs if i would like others cams

Warsteiner · « **Reply #136 on:** June 11, 2014, 06:27:08 AM »

Yes, you can change cams and tune with the stock ECU. If you go with high lift and long duration cams your idle will probably be a little higher but the engine should still run smoothly. I would go by the recommendation of the cam company as to what springs you should use.

Cheers,
~Ralph

sjoerd · « **Reply #137 on:** June 11, 2014, 08:41:24 AM »

Quote from: Warsteiner on June 11, 2014, 06:27:08 AM

Yes, you can change cams and tune with the stock ECU. If you go with high lift and long duration cams your idle will probably be a little higher but the engine should still run smoothly. I would go by the recommendation of the cam company as to what springs you should use.

Cheers,
~Ralph

i would buy evrething from dbilas. the itb's, cams, springs and mechanical lifters. but what is the best valve lift for 262� cam's used for street driving (i wouldn't realy race it) i can choose between 10.2 vale lift or 11.3
grtz

Warsteiner · « **Reply #138 on:** June 11, 2014, 11:23:40 AM »

Ok. My first thought would be why would you want mechanical/solid lifters? If its strictly for the street and you don't plan on hitting 8K RPM or above on a regular basis then I would stick with the hydraulic lifters. If you go solid, you need to take out your cams and lifters each time you want to do a valve adjustment.

For the street I would stick with the 262* 10.2mm lift cams. Or you can offset the cams as well to keep the torque band lower in the rpm's for daily driving. Cam selection is the hardest choice to make for the engine. It all depends on how you'll be driving. Dbilas should give you a better answer for your question other than just mentioning they have 2 cam choices available for your engine because they need to spec out the chip for you as well. Tell them how you'll be driving the car and ask them what they recommend.

Cheers,
~Ralph

sjoerd · « **Reply #139 on:** June 11, 2014, 02:38:05 PM »

Quote from: Warsteiner on June 11, 2014, 11:23:40 AM

Ok. My first thought would be why would you want mechanical/solid lifters? If its strictly for the street and you don't plan on hitting 8K RPM or above on a regular basis then I would stick with the hydraulic lifters. If you go solid, you need to take out your cams and lifters each time you want to do a valve adjustment.

For the street I would stick with the 262* 10.2mm lift cams. Or you can offset the cams as well to keep the torque band lower in the rpm's for daily driving. Cam selection is the hardest choice to make for the engine. It all depends on how you'll be driving. Dbilas should give you a better answer for your question other than just mentioning they have 2 cam choices available for your engine because they need to spec out the chip for you as well. Tell them how you'll be driving the car and ask them what they recommend.

Cheers,
~Ralph

what rpm's can i do with the original hydrolic lifters? if i ceep the limiter at 6250rpm do i get the full benifits of the new cams? and dbilas advises 262* with 10.2mm lift for street use, 262*with 11.3 for sport.

MLM · « **Reply #140 on:** June 11, 2014, 08:04:09 PM »

Hi Sjoerd

I think Ralph hit the nail on the head with the comment regarding Dbilas giving you better answers. It sounds like you are prepared to invest significant money with the company with buying a package. Therefore they should be forthcoming with answers, particularly with regard to their cam performance, expected rev range, idle quality, require compression ratio and supporting mods required etc and how this package should perform overall.

Have you asked them?

There are a number of us who have played with these engines on here though any one person can only offer their own experience. What worked for one person may not work for another. Companies who develop product should be able to offer their insight based on repeat testing and results. This will be the best information you can gather.

Sounds like your on the path to an exciting project!

Warsteiner · « **Reply #141 on:** June 11, 2014, 11:10:23 PM »

Sjoerd,

I have seen hydraulic lifters run at 7500rpm all day long. I've been told my 33mm set up could prob handle 8,000rpm.

Your new cams at 10.2mm will probably want to pull as far as the engine will let them. Although Dbilas may set the limiter at 7100-7200rpm. If you're doing just street then I would go with their recommended cams, springs and chip. They all have to work together. No need to get solid lifters for street.

Again....I would ask them what they suggest as a package for your driving habits.

Let us know what you decide to get and then we would love to see some dyno runs.

Cheers,
~Ralph

sjoerd · « **Reply #142 on:** June 12, 2014, 03:38:03 AM »

i just emaild them so i hope to get a awnser soon

ik can raise the rev limiter with the hydrolic lifters and it won't damage anything if i go 7000rpm's than?
and dbilas will advise me to buy their chip but wouldn't it be bether to get e profesional dyna tune? or wil the result be the same as the dbilas chips?
thank's for all the info

Warsteiner · « **Reply #143 on:** June 12, 2014, 06:18:45 AM »

Most M42 chips limiters are raised to 7100 on the market. A custom tune is always the best if you have someone near you that can tune eprom chips. If Dbilas has a set up with their specific cams you can definitely choose to go that route. A chip is much cheaper than a tune.

Cheers,
~Ralph

sjoerd · « **Reply #144 on:** June 12, 2014, 07:19:44 AM »

Quote from: Warsteiner on June 12, 2014, 06:18:45 AM

Most M42 chips limiters are raised to 7100 on the market. A custom tune is always the best if you have someone near you that can tune eprom chips. If Dbilas has a set up with their specific cams you can definitely chose to go that route. A chip is much cheaper than a tune.

Cheers,
~Ralph

i wil hear what dbilas has to say. and can i still get e (fine) tune when i would hae the dbilas chip?
grtz

Warsteiner · « **Reply #145 on:** June 12, 2014, 09:47:21 AM »

If you mean a good tune, I'm sure Dbilas has a good tune for their products, but I have never had one of their chips. If you mean getting a new tune after getting their chip, then I would say why bother getting their chip in the first place. Talk to some of your local tuners in your area and see what they say as well.

Cheers,
~Ralph

sjoerd · « **Reply #146 on:** June 12, 2014, 11:08:58 AM »

Quote from: Warsteiner on June 12, 2014, 09:47:21 AM

If you mean a good tune, I'm sure Dbilas has a good tune for there products, but I have never had one of their chips. If you mean getting a new tune after getting there chip, then I would say why bother getting their chip in the first place. Talk to some of your local tuners in your area and see what they say as well.

Cheers,
~Ralph

okeythank you.
you helpd me alot!

ChrisPino · « **Reply #147 on:** July 22, 2015, 04:05:34 AM »

Here is my Turbo built E30 318is Turbo 313Whp.

https://plus.google.com/+ChrisPhares/photos

Check out my Youtube Channel for some videos.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLEu7uRERoZOnpMyy0x4enA

Cheers.

jerseytim · « **Reply #148 on:** October 26, 2015, 10:55:58 AM »

e36 m3 itb's. i had a spare m42 head so could work out where everything had to go without taking the inlet off my car. i removed the centre pair of throttle bodies and used the 2 outside pairs, cut down the throttle linkage and fuel rail then had to have 2 pieces of aluminium welded to the bodies where the studs didn't line up. the ports matched great but the studs needed re drilling. i used the m3 tps and injectors and the engine started ok without the air flow meter but was too rough to drive
https://youtu.be/JkjyEIHgQLE
the trumpets were made from exhaust tube and egg cup holders (very low budget)
i didn't want to run the restrictive afm so i made a loom and fitted a DTA ecu. once mapped it ran really well, it sounded lovely but didn't make much more power than standard. it was fun to do and cost very little apart from the ecu. the biggest gain was in the sound it made, it sounded like 200 bhp
i will post pictures when i can work out how to make them smaller

MLM · « **Reply #149 on:** October 29, 2015, 05:50:45 PM »

Quote from: MLM on May 25, 2013, 12:24:30 AM

My set up just completed and now running.

Dbilas throttles with custom carbon airbox with internal staggered trumpets. Tuned on aftermarket ECU. Exhaust is a custom equal length header (RHD) and 2.5 inch exhaust. All DIY made.

Dyno pending

I took my car to a local track last week. A bit of a slow start while the car warmed up and I got used to the track (1st time). Will be aiming to do more of these and improve my track skills.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F86YQJDol6s&feature=youtu.be

Author Topic: ITB's info/projects (Read 147134 times)

sjoerd

Re: ITB's info/projects

Warsteiner

Re: ITB's info/projects

sjoerd

Re: ITB's info/projects

Warsteiner

Re: ITB's info/projects

sjoerd

Re: ITB's info/projects

MLM

Re: ITB's info/projects

Warsteiner

Re: ITB's info/projects

sjoerd

Re: ITB's info/projects

Warsteiner

Re: ITB's info/projects

sjoerd

Re: ITB's info/projects

Warsteiner

Re: ITB's info/projects

sjoerd

Re: ITB's info/projects

ChrisPino

Re: ITB's info/projects

jerseytim

Re: ITB's info/projects

MLM

Re: ITB's info/projects