Need expert advice. Running out of ideas.

[Bimmerfan84]

Hey guys I am really stumped right now but I think it is best if I start from the beginning. I have a 1992 BMW 318iC E30 I bought as a project to one day give to my daughter. I drove it an hour and a half home and died in my driveway. After sorting out a few corroded ground points and replacing the alternator, it ran. Then one day just stopped running. Had computer checked (good) and replaced crank and cam sensor. Found out fuel pump was dead and fuel tank was full of rust and corrosion like it sat before I got it. Replaced fuel tank, pump, filter, and it started and ran but ran poorly when cold, ran great when at operating temp. Then replaced intake and throttle gaskets, temp sensors, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, stock injectors with 4 pintle head upgrade, fuel pressure regulator and eliminated all vacuum leaks. Still having same problem, runs horrible cold, runs great warmed up, oh I also cleaned a crap ton of carbon out of the intake. I am frustrated, I did a stomp test and no codes, only thing I can think of is that something I replaced was no good. Maybe the crank and cam sensors? Any insight? HELP!!!!

[colin86325]

Might want to check if the wires are connected under the cowl.  Refer to the "hot start problem" thread that's stickied.

[Bimmerfan84]

So it did have a wire connected under the cowl but it only improved the shaking slightly (power has returned but not the misfiring). This my have been my original problem but I have gotten myself into another during all the part changing. Stomp test shows 1244 but I changed the cam sensor already. New one is made by Vaico. Think it could be the wrong one?

[colin86325]

I've heard of problem with aftermarket crank/cam sensors.  IMHO seems best to stick to BMW brand for these.

[Bimmerfan84]

I went ahead and ordered from BMW but it is 2 days out. Will update once it arrives.

[Bimmerfan84]

Installed BMW cam sensor today and still runs like crap. No Check engine light but computer throws cam code 1244 even after disconnecting battery for 5 minutes. I even unplugged the air flow meter which got the check engine light to come on but it still only throws one code.... 1244, doesn't even throw a code for air flow sensor!! I read that someone else here had a similar experience and it ended up being the ECU. I've had my ECU tested but do you think they missed something? 

[Bimmerfan84]

I swapped out the ecu with a used one, started up, and it runs even worse...buuuuuuuuutttt..... it now reads codes (so I assume the other ECU did have an issue)! I am getting a code for 1222 which still refers to a driveability, mixture issue. Could it be a bad AFM? shelling out 700 bucks for a question mark is intimidating.

[Froos]

I think a 318i is the same afm, get on of those secondhand on ebay?

[colin86325]

Have you tested your ignition coils?  Also, what condition are the plugs in?

[Froos]

Btw isnt 1222 code a lamda sensor issue? Also just check the resistance of each item you think might be failing. Another option find a local "guy" that has software that you can hook up to the obc. That way you can see live if data and if all you sensors etc are working in order. Also any issues with you new or old ecu will surface pretty quick.

[Bimmerfan84]

I think a 318i is the same afm, get on of those secondhand on ebay?

Can't always be 100 percent sure it's working correctly. I started to look around for ways to test the one I have presently as it looks fairly new.

Have you tested your ignition coils?  Also, what condition are the plugs in?

Coils, wires, and plugs have been replaced.

Btw isnt 1222 code a lamda sensor issue? Also just check the resistance of each item you think might be failing. Another option find a local "guy" that has software that you can hook up to the obc. That way you can see live if data and if all you sensors etc are working in order. Also any issues with you new or old ecu will surface pretty quick.

From everything I've gathered, 1222 mean it is either too lean or too rich. It could be a lot of things. The car seemed to run the worst after I put the rebuilt injectors in and cleaned out the carbon so I decided to just buy brand new Bosch replacement injectors (the new ones come with the four pintle head anyway). The car smells rich but can't be sure. I have a crap ton of BMW software but it seems to cut off right before 1992. It doesn't seem to read the values.

[Bimmerfan84]

So I replaced the injectors with brand new and the car actually RUNS  but it still hesitates, misfires, stalls, and backfires while the engine is cold. It starts really badly and the warmer the car gets, the the better it runs. (I have replaced both temp sensors) For instance when I first start it the idle will be rough and car will backfire and it may stall, after a minute or two the idle will have smoothed out and the it will backfire under any load or revving close to 2000rpm. Then after a few more minutes it will only hesitate and backfire about 3000 rpm. As soon as it warms up to operating temp the car runs PERFECT. It is almost as though the car is not enrichening the mixture as it normally does while the car is cold. Any ideas?

[1998ccc]

Double check your coolant temp sensor.  It should be ~2500 ohms at 20 deg C, only a couple hundred at op temp.  Have you checked the CTS wiring back to the DME?   You may have a break in you wiring.

[Bimmerfan84]

Hooked up an auto logic scanner and temp sensor is reading fine. O2 sensor goes back and forth between normal and adding massive amounts of fuel. (0.4 to 0.. Does anyone have a list of what normal operating values for all of the inputs should be? Also, even with the non-cat wire disconnected it still reads a co value, but I also noticed that the co wire connects to the TPS input. Still getting codes for lamda control and cam sensor.

[1998ccc]

Since it runs "perfect" hot, I would look into what controls fuel in the warm up cycle.  That's what made me think CTS or wiring since it only needs a couple hundred ohms hot which it might not miss, but thousands cold.

Have you inspected the intake boot / brake booster hose check valve / any intake hoses for leaks or cracks?  Any of those would create a lean condition.