Author Topic: **SOLVED** 1991 318is Stomp code 1222 woes.. Replaced many parts to no avail.  (Read 7319 times)

formyhealth

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UPDATE!!

I fixed the issue, what seemed like a vacuum leak with all of it's symptoms turned out to be a faulty fuel pump! It makes sense the more I think about it, but the symptoms were VERY similar to a vacuum leak (bogging, stuttering, falling on it's face at WOT)
Just wanted to share in case anyone else is struggling with these symptoms.


**EDIT 2**


So I feel it was a bit of both (the fuel pump wiring connector and the fuel pump itself). The plug had disintegrated so what I ended up doing was breaking the plastic surround of the plug apart to reveal two female butt connectors which was nice, I just smooshed the ends a little to make a tighter fit on the connections.

Then to the pump, I heard it whirring away but it didn't really sound healthy, when I got it out of the tank I noticed the outlet port that attaches to a orange rubber connector was really loose, I am thinking it was likely that the pump just wasn't able to maintain pressure and would blow extra fuel past the seal and subsequently not into the fuel rail. (this theory is backed up from one, no fuel spraying me in the face when disconnecting fuel lines and two, really hard starts and long cranks after a few hours of sitting.


Hey everyone,

I am reaching out for help as I am exhausted with trying to track down this code 1222 on a 1991 318is.

I purchased the car knowing full well that it had idle and bucking/hesitation issues while under load. I figured it would be an "easy" fix (vacuum lines or some thing).

Well I've replaced:

all intake gaskets (runners to head, manifold to runners, TB to manifold.
all vacuum lines ("mess under the intake" stuff)
replaced both temp sensors (blue and brown)
cleaned and inspected ICV
replaced all 4 coils with new OEM coils
replaced 4 sparkplugs


Then I tried running again, instead of code 1222 I was getting code 1215 (MAF sensors stuff)

SO, I replaced:

Air Flow Meter
Throttle Position Sensor

Now today after replacing those I am getting code 1222 again, no more code 1215..

So I check fuel as code 1222 is a lean condition usually, and undid the rear seat and notice that the fuel pump cover only has 2 screws holding it down..

OK

Then I find this monstrosity:


It appears that the PO had broken this clip and decided to zip tie it back together. I can hear the pump change frequency when I push and pull on the broken clip. (wonder if this is causing a lean condition? intermittent fuel pressure or some thing..)




Does anyone have any advice for me regarding this issue? It's really unfortunate and I just want to drive the car.

PS, here is a clip of what the engine does under load (don't mind the zip ties holding the throttle cable to it's post, I've got a new cable in the mail):dontknow:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQNhLzU_ihc
« Last Edit: May 17, 2016, 05:18:21 PM by formyhealth »

Darky

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Re: 1991 318is Stomp code 1222 woes.. Replaced many parts to no avail.
« Reply #1 on: May 13, 2016, 01:53:12 AM »
Have you got anyway of checking your fuel pressure?
If it is your fuel pressure it could be your pressure regulator or pump.

Injectors might be clogged up too. If it's not fuel pressure!

Cheers Rohan
 

formyhealth

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Re: 1991 318is Stomp code 1222 woes.. Replaced many parts to no avail.
« Reply #2 on: May 13, 2016, 12:15:05 PM »
Have you got anyway of checking your fuel pressure?
If it is your fuel pressure it could be your pressure regulator or pump.

Injectors might be clogged up too. If it's not fuel pressure!

Cheers Rohan

Thanks Rohan,

On another forum I have been talking about where to put a fuel pressure gauge, I'll be testing fuel pressure soon so I can have an update then.

Am I correct in thinking it should be in the neighborhood of 36 psi? As for the injectors, I have 19# 4 pintle injectors on the way which I will install regardless. (Maybe I should replace the fuel filter while I am at it, no sense in clogging up brand new injectors..)

Darky

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Re: 1991 318is Stomp code 1222 woes.. Replaced many parts to no avail.
« Reply #3 on: May 13, 2016, 08:39:13 PM »
I get 2.5 bar on my gauge for fuel pressure. Which is 36.25 psi so spot on!
Fuel filter wouldn't hurt could also be the problem

formyhealth

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Re: 1991 318is Stomp code 1222 woes.. Replaced many parts to no avail.
« Reply #4 on: May 13, 2016, 09:19:06 PM »
I get 2.5 bar on my gauge for fuel pressure. Which is 36.25 psi so spot on!
Fuel filter wouldn't hurt could also be the problem

No doubt! cool I'll give it a go, I ended up purchasing a walboro fuel pump, strainer and fuel filter which should be here Sunday in lieu of metering fuel pressure, I figure for the price (~$90) might as well be sure that I DO have proper fuel pressure.

I'll post back with results this weekend.

Thanks!

Darky

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Re: 1991 318is Stomp code 1222 woes.. Replaced many parts to no avail.
« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2016, 09:41:48 PM »
My pleasure!

But keep in mind that it could be the fuel pressure regulator.

formyhealth

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Re: 1991 318is Stomp code 1222 woes.. Replaced many parts to no avail.
« Reply #6 on: May 14, 2016, 10:32:58 PM »
Thanks, I figure if the fuel pump and filter isn't the issue I'll replace the FPR and then take it to my local BMW to have them deal with it.

At a certain point it makes more sense to spend money on someone who can definitely tell me the issue rather than throw money all over the car like a stripper.

eric16v

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formyhealth was it the actual pump or the electrical connection? How did you resolve the problem? I see you bought the walbro pump

Warsteiner

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Ya....was it #1. the actual electrical wiring ...brown and green wires or #2. the electrical 2 prong connector at the top of the fuel pump or #3. the fuel pump itself ......as the issue?

Enquiring minds would like to know.... 8)


Cheers,
~Ralph

formyhealth

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Ya....was it #1. the actual electrical wiring ...brown and green wires or #2. the electrical 2 prong connector at the top of the fuel pump or #3. the fuel pump itself ......as the issue?

Enquiring minds would like to know.... 8)


Cheers,
~Ralph



So I feel it was a bit of both. The plug had disintegrated so what I ended up doing was breaking the plastic surround of the plug apart to reveal two female butt connectors which was nice, I just smooshed the ends a little to make a tighter fit on the connections.

Then to the pump, I heard it whirring away but it didn't really sound healthy, when I got it out of the tank I noticed the outlet port that attaches to a orange rubber connector was really loose, I am thinking it was likely that the pump just wasn't able to maintain pressure and would blow extra fuel past the seal and subsequently not into the fuel rail. (this theory is backed up from one, no fuel spraying me in the face when disconnecting fuel lines and two, really hard starts and long cranks after a few hours of sitting.

Hope that helps!
 

Darky

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Glad you found the problem, and it's running well for you!

formyhealth

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Glad you found the problem, and it's running well for you!

Thank you, I am so relived, I was working on it every night after work trying to make it run, super happy!

Darky

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Is she a daily driver?

formyhealth

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Is she a daily driver?

No I DD an E39 540i Sport Wagon, she's just a little play thing.

 ;)