cold idle issue?

[Rally Culture]

when i do a cold start on the car the idle drops low and eventually dies. when i give it a lil gas it idles a bit better but  still struggles until it warms up then its fine. i have replaced every hose including the mess under the intake. resealed the valve cover and intake gaskets. installed new fuel pump, checked the fuel pressure, did a compression check. cleaned the icv, the diaphragm sounds like its moving freely and checked for vacuum leeks. I also replaced the cam/ crank sensors since the wires were exposed. I checked the maf sensor by swapping it with a known working one and made no diff. so im at a loss it sounds like icv problem so i may try to swap it with a working one to see if that is it but other wise im lost  if anyone has had this same problem and/ or could point me in the right direction i would be very grateful    

[deansweet]

Does the check engine light come on?
Does it do this upon restarts/warm starts?

Dean

[Rally Culture]

the check engine light comes on after its been idling for a couple of mins but as soon as u hit the gas it stays off until  u let it idle for a bit. i unfortunately dont have a obd1 reader to check the code and when i try to follow the brake flashing lights test it confuses me   . once the car is warm it idles fine but still the ce light comes on after idling and goes away as soon as u give it throttle.

[monty23psk]

research how to do the stomp test, it is a built in obd test with the gas pedal. for free you get the codes.

[Rally Culture]

ok so i found a video on how to do it and it was actually a simpler than i thought. so the code was 1222 which is a lambda control 1 code.  it looks like a wide range of things:
This code is stored when the DME detects excessive deviations in the air-fuel mixture (too rich or too lean) for longer than 10 seconds. Possible causes: Fuel tank ran empty, Incorrect Fuel Pressure, Injector valve defective or coked, Engine Temperature Sensor defective, Secondary air leak, Fuel evaporation control system defective, Air Flow Meter defective and/or the combustion is being disturbed by mechanical failure (Spark plugs,, compression, intake/exhaust valves, ...etc.) things i have replaced: 02 sensor, cranck/ cam sensors, spark plugs, maf sensor, fuel pump but i forgot to put clamps on the fuel hose connecting to the assembly which made the fuel pressure drop and run like crap for a bit till i figured it out. i wonder if all the excessive carbon gummed up the 02 sensor? ill pull it and clean it to see if it makes a difference other wise its back to squared 1 wish me luck!

[monty23psk]

First thing I would do if it was my car, is reset the codes, either with computer or by unplugging batter for at least 30 minutes. To be safe, do an hour. Connect battery to on position but dont start the car on. After a few minutes turn it off and run the stomp test. Hopefully you get a 1444 code meaning all is good. Then turn car on and wait until light turns on. Then turn it off and run stomp test. If you get a 1222 error, then you need to check all the sensor it states, whether you got them new or not. Also research what other have done for that code to look for easy culprits. replace items that are wear and tear items and probably the cheaper items then the most expensive items first. Also, if you can borrow parts, even better for your tests.

[DesktopDave]

I'd check the DME coolant temp sensor both warm and cold, to see if it's in range. IIRC a cold sensor should read very high, like about 7-11K ohms. As the sensor warms up the resistance shoud drop until it's down to only a few hundred ohms when fully warmed up.

I had a problem like this a while back and it ended up being the fuel injectors & o-rings. I'm not sure which it was, but when I put the newer injectors in with new rings it immediately settled into a silky-smooth idle.

Don't forget the brake booster vac hose for leaks.

[Rally Culture]

i checked for leaks all over spraying for all the hoses and gaskets while the car was running and found nothing. its funny you mentioned the FIs and o rings, when i removed the IM to clean i tried to pull the FIs out to clean all the carbon build up around them but couldnt. I was pulling and wiggling so hard i thought i was going to break them. it seems the o rings welded the injectors in place so i just cleaned around them and put it back together. i would think though if it was an injector it would idle/ run a lot worse? i just replaced both of the temp sensors no more than 6 months ago but ill double check it to make sure its in range.

[Rally Culture]

i figured it out it it was my brand new ebay afm . cheap parts=big head ache save your money and spend it on quality parts!