Author Topic: Few general questions (Read 8971 times)

kowalski · « **Reply #15 on:** January 11, 2007, 02:03:33 PM »

Quote from: Alpine003;17409

I disagree with this as new wires are only really needed if the current one's are corroded or if you'll be running a high powered system. That is my $.02. I don't want to open a can of worms as discussed many times on the debate in the past on whether one can notice a sound difference from $5 rca cables vs. $200 rca cables.

As for FL318is,
1. You can use the later E36 decks with a little bit of modding. If you want an OEM look, a good alternative is the older Clarion decks. If you're a hardcore audiophile then I recommend the older Nakamichi decks as the newer one's have had some issues so far.

2. The door frame tweeter wires exists but might not be connected in the door itself. Take off the door panel to check. You can also check the kickpanel behind the speaker as well. Some po's tend to hack up the whole harness so you might have a broken connection in either places.

like i said, if the only reason your installing a deck is for a CD player, rather then a high quality system by all means keep the old wires. but if your installing a new amp then new wires are going to make a difference. I'm not saying go out and buy 200$ RCA's and 100$ for speaker wire, but any speaker requiring an amp is going to need a thicker gauge wire then provided stock.

Alpine003 · « **Reply #16 on:** January 11, 2007, 10:18:15 PM »

Quote from: kowalski;17426

like i said, if the only reason your installing a deck is for a CD player, rather then a high quality system by all means keep the old wires. but if your installing a new amp then new wires are going to make a difference. I'm not saying go out and buy 200$ RCA's and 100$ for speaker wire, but any speaker requiring an amp is going to need a thicker gauge wire then provided stock.

Please explain. I bet if you did a a/b blind test with moderate power, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. I won't debate though. Everyone should do the test based on their system and do what works for them. I don't try to talk people out of doing things that they feel comfortable with and 'works' for them.

kowalski · « **Reply #17 on:** January 12, 2007, 02:14:16 AM »

Quote from: Alpine003;17453

Please explain. I bet if you did a a/b blind test with moderate power, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. I won't debate though. Everyone should do the test based on their system and do what works for them. I don't try to talk people out of doing things that they feel comfortable with and 'works' for them.

my old wiring was toast, so yes it would make a difference:cool: its personal prefrence like you said, but if you like loud music thats clear it makes a difference. i'm not going to argue this any further tho cause i don't much care, and i'm kind of over the whole sound system phase of my life..

magnum2066 · « **Reply #18 on:** January 12, 2007, 08:07:30 AM »

I know I already said that I'm planning on getting new sensors but I am still curious if I could save a few bucks and use the service reset tool? Or doesn't it reset THAT part of the puter?

By the way, 40-60f below freezing is awfully hard on a car... Now I remember why North Dakota sucks. 110 degree summers and close to -40 to -60 degree winters.

Alpine003 · « **Reply #19 on:** January 12, 2007, 09:21:20 AM »

Quote from: kowalski;17464

i'm kind of over the whole sound system phase of my life..

I was over this whole thing back in 1986 when I got the very first Alpine CD player. Fixed deck and since the circuits were so crowded back then, they had to run a wire to a separate tuner box since they couldn't fit it in. LOL

sheepdog · « **Reply #20 on:** January 12, 2007, 05:19:17 PM »

You can bypass the rear amp and use the old wires. Not very difficult to do. Just remove the amp and splice the wires together.

No new wires needed, no re-wiring.

As for brakes, just because the light is on, does not mean your pads are worn, someone may have not put in new wires when doing the pad replacement last time. Mien were worn and I just spliced the wires together, as my pads did not have the proper attachment for them anyhow. This will turn off the light.

Check your pads though and if you bypass the wires, you will need to manual check them after you replace them.

magnum2066 · « **Reply #21 on:** January 13, 2007, 02:24:10 AM »

If I splice my pad sensors will they still work after I replace them at a later time? (The next time I replace the pads.)

From what I can see the stock wiring seems to be in okay condition, they should be fine with having a max of 175 watts going through them?

individualist · « **Reply #22 on:** January 13, 2007, 04:04:19 AM »

On the pad sensors, you are just taking the two wires and connecting them together to complete the circuit, how you connect them is up to you. You can use a wire nut, barrel clamp, solder or whatever. To connect the sensor back in at a later time is to simply brake the connection and wire the sensor back in.

As for the stock wiring for audio, 175W is fine. I'm pushing 600W RMS on the stock wiring with 12AWG wiring to the sub and another 1000W feeding that. I read somewhere that the stock wiring needed to be replaced but I hooked it all up anyway and found no problems. I am going to upgrade the wiring in the future but it's not a must, more of a personal preference.

sheepdog · « **Reply #23 on:** January 13, 2007, 10:29:32 PM »

Just wire it together, a few inches up the wire is a connector which is where the new one connects, eliminating any evidence of what you did.

magnum2066 · « **Reply #24 on:** January 14, 2007, 06:52:50 AM »

Awesome, I'll be doing that next weekend.

Since I'm rather dimwitted when it comes to electrical work I have no idea what wires I splice together to bypass the amp. Is it something like Red to red, blue/white to blue/white?

(I used this write-up for referance: http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=403)

sheepdog · « **Reply #25 on:** January 14, 2007, 01:56:40 PM »

Quote from: magnum2066;17556

Awesome, I'll be doing that next weekend.

Since I'm rather dimwitted when it comes to electrical work I have no idea what wires I splice together to bypass the amp. Is it something like Red to red, blue/white to blue/white?

(I used this write-up for referance: http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=403)

Should.

magnum2066 · « **Reply #26 on:** January 20, 2007, 03:30:40 AM »

One thing I failed to mention is that I keep on hearing three beeps whenever I'm driving. Since the brake lining light is on I've assumed that is what its referring to but I'm not entirely sure. After looking in the manual I still couldn't find what the beeps meant. Anyone have an idea?

individualist · « **Reply #27 on:** January 20, 2007, 05:11:35 AM »

That is most likely your temperature/digital clock unit. It will beep when the outdoor temperature reaches 38F or lower as an alert for potentially icy driving surfaces. Mine rarely beeps anymore but it will automatically flash the outside temp when these conditions are met. Others can correct me if I don't have all of this quite right.

D. Clay · « **Reply #28 on:** January 20, 2007, 11:28:21 AM »

Quote from: scottiesharpe;17252

No this doesn't sound right. Your BMW is a 12v Negative ground like every other car on the road today.

I had a 1962 Triumph TR3A that was positive ground. But then it's a garage queen and not on the road so you may be right.

magnum2066 · « **Reply #29 on:** January 20, 2007, 11:36:01 AM »

Quote from: individualist;17870

That is most likely your temperature/digital clock unit. It will beep when the outdoor temperature reaches 38F or lower as an alert for potentially icy driving surfaces. Mine rarely beeps anymore but it will automatically flash the outside temp when these conditions are met. Others can correct me if I don't have all of this quite right.

Well then it does a great job of calculating in windchill. :rolleyes: Hasn't been colder than -22 but with wind chill it has been colder than -60 up here in ND a few days back. Thanks for putting a stop to me going beep crazy.

As for maintenance, its going to have to wait for the brakes and the sort because my cousin is expecting another young'un any day now... Suppose I have to bring it to a car shop now. (My wallet is actually starting to cry.)