Author Topic: failed NV smog inspection (Read 6873 times)

romeomike · « **on:** March 17, 2014, 11:58:57 AM »

Quote from: bmwman91 on August 30, 2013, 01:45:23 AM

The cost of the headers is as much as the test, and swapping them is a pain. You will likely need to buy all new copper header bolts and replace a few studs if they are all rusty. You'll need a new header-to-downpipe gasket as well. So, $100+ for the header swap, or just go to another shop. Seems more practical to me.

You can try to convince the tech that he is wrong, but in the end they might not go for any reasonable argument. The state of CA actually spends the money to send out failing cars with undercover referees to random shops to make sure that they are not fudging anything. The fine can be enough to shut a shop down, so techs are hyper-paranoid. Ultimately we the people suffer the consequences as you are finding.

Where in CA are you? If you are in the Bay Area, I can recommend the shops that I use with reasonable techs. I JUST went through SMOG earlier this week as a matter of fact. Needed a new cat and O2 sensor (stupid wideband controller crapped out which made me run rich...killing the cat and failing the first run at the SMOG shop). It was like $85 for the tests (including evap system) and the cert.

I just had my first failed emissions test in Nevada at 231,000 miles (idle speed HC == 2794 (greater than 220 parts per million). Still have the original cat, and my O2 sensor has well less than 100K miles on it. I noted your writing about the "stupid wideband controller" crapped out and wondered what system it's a part of. [after reading another thread, it sounds as though it wasn't a stock component] Other little details: new air and fuel filter, new spark plugs, recently installed ICV, recent remanufactured AFM, new TPS, original DME, original fuel injectors, vacuum, coolant hoses/air boot replaced 2-3 years ago.

Thanks for whatever help I can get here.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #1 on:** March 17, 2014, 12:45:48 PM »

Wow - that's a lot of HC. I'd guess it's unburned fuel, but the O2 sensor should be leaning it out to compensate. Why did you install a new AFM?

I'd try the following:
Be sure the O2 heater relay is working
Do a stomp test
Vac leaks
See if the O2 is giving out a useful signal - should be about 1VDC when the car is warmed up and running in closed loop.

I'd be interested in testing the CLT & IAT temp sensors, and seeing if you have a plugged injector, dead coil driver or something like that.

romeomike · « **Reply #2 on:** March 17, 2014, 01:50:52 PM »

Hi:

I kept getting 1215 stomp codes with the old AFM so I went with a refurbished one by Greg Mannino (GregM on bimmerforums.com) Currently there are no codes besides the "no problem" 1444.

The blue temp sensor was replaced about the same time I did the hose/coolant pipe/intake gasket refresh 2-3 years ago. I've ordered some refurbished injectors to attempt to eliminate plugged injectors as an issue, and that will give me a chance to do a more thorough visual inspection of the vacuum hoses when I swap injectors. I'll certainly look at swapping in a different O2 heater relay today.

One day it was working beautifully, the next day the idle was low and rough. I've been living with this for about 9 days.

As always, thanks for your help and advice.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #3 on:** March 17, 2014, 02:22:42 PM »

My mechanic let me in on a few of his secrets a while back. He always made sure that a car was fully warmed up before running the emissions tests, and that the O2 sensor in particular was nice and hot. We have some advantages in PA though. Low-mileage and older cars are typically exempt from annual emissions testing. We can also have the car registered as a classic or hot rod, but that depends on having another car as a DD.

What kind of plugs did you use? I recommend NGKs or Bosch "silver" as I've had some problems with the Bosch platinum.

The wideband O2 sensor is an add-on component. It replaces the stock "narrowband" O2 sensor, and shows a far wider range of exhaust mixtures than the OEM part. They can typically be configured to emulate a narrowband so the stock DME will still function properly. A few newer cars have them as stock equipment. Here's a good article, if you're curious.

romeomike · « **Reply #4 on:** March 17, 2014, 03:33:08 PM »

Hi:

Plugs are new NGKs (two side electrodes). Did a resistance test on the wires (in KOhms): 5.9, 5.7, 6.0, 5.8 from wire 1 to 4 respectively. The car had 23 miles of warmup (10 miles combined on surface streets) and the rest on a decent sized freeway run prior to hitting the station. Nevada can do hot rod or classic registration but that would cap me at 5K miles per year, and I do about three times that with this car.

I do have a spare DME and coil pack, but only the coil pack has been test installed (but not recently). The car sat for a good part of the weekend and showed 12.06V battery voltage prior to start, but ramped to 14.15V quickly after starting, and was at 12.6V when I checked it after shutdown.

Reading the article now on my lunch break --thanks for listening

DesktopDave · « **Reply #5 on:** March 17, 2014, 06:09:16 PM »

I split the topic so that it'd get more views.

You're ahead of me on all the answers though. So far, you've done everything I'd have done. It could well be just a burned out catalyst; I wonder if a newer unit would resolve the problem. Even if you replace the cat and pass this year's inspection, the underlying problem might simply burn the new one out.

romeomike · « **Reply #6 on:** March 18, 2014, 12:31:58 PM »

Thanks. This is the long form I submitted on bimmerforums.com in the E30 section. I'm not planning to do any more cross-site posting besides here and there.

1991 BMW 318i, 231,000 miles, original DME, fuel injectors, cat, coil packs and spark plug wires. Head gasket replaced at 50,000 mile point in 2000.

My perfect test streak ended today (2794 idle HC, 220 ppm max allowable, 23 miles of driving prior to test). Rough idle with lagging low speed performance. Runs smoothly at highway speeds of 60-80 mph. What I replaced and tested so far in the last 3.5 years:

September 2010 � changed oxygen sensor (188,000)
June 2011 � completed a full vacuum and coolant hose/pipe swap. Did not do the �mess under the intake� hose delete mod. Other than new o-rings, left the fuel injectors alone. Replaced both intake manifold gaskets and degunked the lower intake runners and combustion ports.
June 2012 -- replaced the alternator�s voltage regulator and brush assembly.
July 2012 -- replaced the blue DME coolant sensor and washer.
December 2012 -- new throttle position switch and throttle body gasket
January 2013 -- refurbished AFM, new air and fuel filters
February 2013 � replaced failed fuel pump with one from another forum member�s part out
August 2013 � new ICV
October 2013 � new engine ground cable
January 2014 � latest oil and filter change (Mobil 1 15W-50)
March 8, 2014 � sudden onset of rough idle problems.
March 9, 2014 - changed the fuel and air filter a bit over the 231,000 mile mark, added Techron fuel injector cleaner
March 16, 2014. Since I had some oil leak through into the #1 spark plug tube of the 91, replaced the spark plugs with the recommended NGKs, valve cover gasket and four profile gaskets over the top of the spark plug tubes at 231,156 miles. Checked battery voltage (14.15V with car idling, 12.6V after shutting down engine)
March 17, 2014 � failed emissions test. Measured spark plug wire resistance (in KOhms 5.9, 5.7, 6.0, 5.8 from wire 1 to 4 respectively). Stomp test only shows no faults (1444), no CEL light during any of this recent trouble. No visible smoke.

Have refurbished fuel injectors on order, have a spare coil pack and DME available to swap. Thanks again for listening and any help provided.

romeomike · « **Reply #7 on:** March 28, 2014, 11:36:34 AM »

March 27, 2014 update. Replaced the injectors with remanufactured ones (four nozzle -- Bosch 0 280 150 943) that included new o-rings, and new intake gaskets. I also disconnected the battery to give the DME a chance to reset, unfortunately no real improvement in idle. More parts on order (Bosch plug wires).

SkidMark · « **Reply #8 on:** March 28, 2014, 02:16:18 PM »

Hey there brother,
I feel your pain.I was wondering where in NV are you located? I live in Reno and have a bunch of spare parts and a little knowledge I could share. Maybe two heads could figure out your prob? Does it idle weird all the time? Hot? Cold? If you could give me a little info I might be able to help. Skid

romeomike · « **Reply #9 on:** March 31, 2014, 04:02:03 PM »

Vegas. Rough idle cold, gets somewhat better as car warms up. When I turn on the AC, idle drops 500 rpm and is slow to recover. At low speed/low rpm, it feels like I've lost a cylinder. AFM's getting 5V power, its temp resistance measurement was close to spec, while I didn't see a smooth resistance curve when I pushed on the AFM vane (jumpy) which apparently isn't good according to the Chilton manual I was using.

Taking it in to a 2G repair facility tomorrow afternoon. We'll see where it goes from there.

SkidMark · « **Reply #10 on:** March 31, 2014, 04:56:10 PM »

Start pulling plug wires when its running one at a time. Make sure you are wearing rubber glover or use pliers with rubber handles or you may get the shit shocked out of you!!! You should hear a noticeable drop in idle as you do. You should also hear the spark jumping to the plug. If you don't notice any change that particular cyl is dead. If you find a dead one check the coil and wire. Start there first. Or you could do a plug reading. Put a fresh set of plugs in it and run it for a while. Pull the plugs and check to see if one is wet or black.. (or all) .. This will tell you if it is a fuel prob also. Skid.

romeomike · « **Reply #11 on:** April 03, 2014, 10:33:54 AM »

The spark plug insulator on #2 was darkened on one side (not wet nor black), the rest were clean.

The repair facility called this morning: leakdown test on one of the cylinders suggests problems with the exhaust valves. They wanted $3000 to do a valve job, along with $1000 to change the steering rack, plus other items they found along the way.

I said I'll be picking up the car tomorrow without those repairs being done. When I have the diagnostic paperwork in hand, I'll post something more comprehensive.

colin86325 · « **Reply #12 on:** April 04, 2014, 07:02:27 AM »

Wow, are they for real with those prices???

DesktopDave · « **Reply #13 on:** April 04, 2014, 08:39:19 AM »

That sucks. I feel their prices are a bit high as well, but competent shops can be pricey.

romeomike · « **Reply #14 on:** April 04, 2014, 11:17:34 AM »

Claimed the car. From their paper work: compression test results (1 -4): 190, 40, 200, 180. Cylinder leak down test found leakage coming out of exhaust which means it's going past exhaust valves.

Author Topic: failed NV smog inspection (Read 6873 times)

romeomike

failed NV smog inspection

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