Barrie is a list member here and yes I have had correspondence with him in the past on tuning. I believe he is in Ottawa? That's even closer to you...just a hop, skip and a jump! LOL
Check out Mark D'Sylva too...he's in Toronto and is a list member as well.
http://www3.sympatico.ca/mdsylva/When I mentioned doing your own head that was to save you money. The performance head is not a problem with a stroker. Even on a stock motor it's ok as long as you don't port it too heavily because then you'll lose the low end. Here's the secret.....shhh...The power is in the head!
I don't know of any kit out there for the M42 stroker motor.
I'm sure the M44 crank is probably way cheaper to get your hands on, but I'm not sure what is involved in making it work. The M47 crank is minimal work: cut the snout down to fit the crank gear, new crank bolt and spacer plus adding a second keyway. Pretty straight forward, just added labor. The difference is the stroke which I think is 83.5mm for the M44 and 88mm for the M47. You can also lighten the crank by having the counterweights cut, well.....that's what I did since the M47 is a few lbs heavier than the stock crank.
If you're getting bored just stop me....
No question is ever dumb if you can learn something from it
The cams are really up to you. In my opinion if it's a street motor I wouldn't go too radical because you want your power band to be spread out over the rev range. Big cams can make big power for the dyno sheet but it will be in the upper end of the rev range and minimal down low which is great for the track but "eh" for the street. The smaller but still aggressive cams can make great power but usually over the entire rev range. There is more to a cam then just duration. You also have to think about lift. The Schrick 256* set up is based for the stock motor. I'm sure it wakes that motor up quite well. I never had the chance to just do cams and see what it was like. I chose the 250/250 on the recommendation of a tuner that designed those cams for my stroker with 10.8 compression. Not over the top but more aggressive than the Schricks and great for all around street driving and power up to 7,500 rpm. But some little birdie told me that I could probably get 8,000 rpm out of my motor.
Just an aside.... all cams are different in feel. I had a set of 284/276 Schricks for my E30M3. The power was great, it pulled hard, and you knew definitively when the cams kicked in. It was like having an on/off switch. My description of that would be "raw power" which was intense but great. I switched to a Dbilas 296 with the Schrick 284 and what a difference! The power was more linear and you couldn't feel the "on/off" cam feeling. Then I went to 302/296 and it's the same linear feeling. Very deceiving! LOL. I only give these examples because I've learned a lot over the years with trial and error and what better way than with the S14
So....driving with my M42 stroker now and not even completely tuned, I have that same feeling of "sneaky" linear power. It's definitely very deceiving until you look at the speedometer. LOL Personally, for an every day driver, it's the way to go for me.
The diff....I know some on here run the 3.73 on a stock motor. Great for highway MPG, less revs on the motor but the acceleration takes a lil bit more umpf to get going. If you were to find a close ratio transmission, then that would probably be an intense ride but the better option at that point might be a 3.46 I personally have the MM trans with an E30M3 4.10 and hitting 60+mph in second is not a problem. It's really your choice again of how you'll be driving the car. Some also run the 4.27 with lots of grunt down low but your top end cruising might be like a '73 2002 M10 motor with a 4 speed and 3.45 diff wishing you had the 5 speed conversion...Hahaha The diff really depends on your motor build and your transmission. It's the easiest to swap and see what you really like according to your driving habits.
Bored yet?......
Intake....Well......we all know what everyone wants with this topic! You can pretty much take any ITB set up and retro fit it on the car if you have time and money. My next motor will either have 45mm slide throttles or S54 ITB's on it. If MM can get 205HP out of the stock TB then....who knows what ITB's will do on a stroker. I know that Dbilas claims 19-20HP for their ITB's and tuning. I'm sure that's pretty accurate once you start adjusting fuel and timing. But that doesn't mean take all claimed HP gains from all your bolt ons and that's your new HP number...NOT! Chipping the car alone can net you 12-15HP on a stock motor. You need to really talk with Mark or Barrie and have a game plan because they will give you real world numbers.
Spend as much as you can but save a bunch for tuning since that is going to make the whole difference. There is nothing like having expert tuners like Mark or Barrie getting you as much power as possible and safely. Another aside....my tuner for my S14 found an additional 8HP at the wheels by adjusting the angle of my throttle plates! How cool is that.....
Having fun yet?!
Cheers,
~Ralph
