i mean its not even that. ill make sure i post some pics. it could be a few weeks, maybe a month or two before i start this. making my grinding bench should be fun. 
theres a difference in diy'ers who think about how to do things. and then theres diy'ers who do the things they think of. im a do'er idk about you guys.
Nothing wrong with that. Just saying, the reason that people don't DIY everything isn't because they are lazy. As long as you are going into it with the intent of learning and having some fun, all's well.
Again, what are your design goals for these? Lift vs duration? How do you plan to increase those items? It's going to involve welding on the lobes, no way around it. Draw out the cam timing maps to get a good picture of your overlap targets. ANYONE can grind a cam. FEW can set the right design targets and actually execute the cleaning/welding/quenching/grinding operations. The issue here is how much power you will end up losing as a result, and whether or not the lifters will be salvageable afterward. Remember, you want to put a VERY slight angle on the running surfaces, like a few mils across the lobe width, so that they spin the lifters in place and distribute the wear. A straight grind would be a disaster. The cams may be free, but a new or rebuilt head and lifters probably isn't.
More power to you though. It's all just words of caution based on decades+ of personal experience.
PS
If you are going to weld on the cam, and I can't see any way to avoid that, you need to bathe the cams in a solvent that evaporates cleanly (acetone, MEK, xylene...NOT paint thinner) for a good few days to extract the oil out of the porous casting and then stick it in an oven for a day or two to fully evaporate the solvent. Trying to weld porous cast metal that was soaking in oil for decades is an exercise in futility. You are going to want to TIG it as well. MIG is likely to warp the cam since it heats a lot more than the work area.
