Parking lights on when they should not be, no low beams.

[Gabs]

Ill start this post by stating, My iS sat dormant for nearly 2 years after an accident. That being said certain characteristics of the car have slipped my mind.
Making a very long story short, its repaired, rebuilt engine with oem lower internals, head ported, 6mm valve guides, supertech single groove Nitrile coated lightweight valves, st springs, st titanium retainers and seats, blah blah blah blah I could go on for days but ill spare the readers. 

Onward on to the current problem, I drove back and forth to work for a couple days in the car and noticed that the blower motor only blew on high. This was never a problem years ago. Now fast forward to tonight, I decide to take it out again.

Problems:

 With the headlight switch pushed all the way in, my markers, signals and rear running lights were lit. From what I recall, they should be off when the switch is pushed all the way in, they should be lit when i pull it one click out, and the 2nd click should turn on the low beams.

Next mystery, the low beams do not turn on. The high beams work normally. I have checked and replaced fuse 13 and 14 to no avail. I may also be missing relays. K6 K7 & K8 are absent. My 318 was never equipped with fog lights thus I can fathom no K8. Though my fathoming is based on logic and no real information. Im certain the switch is fine as it never was an issue before.

a Google search yielded this: "Jump Pins 87b and 30 of the Low Beam Relay (K4) using a jumper wire with a 30 amp fuse. This should cause the low beams to illuminate."  I will try that come sunrise.

I also noticed one of K4's prongs had a rainbow like heat "stain" if you will. Leading me to believe this relay may be due for replacement, could a faulty K4 cause the parking lights to stay on? Also I'll clarify that the parking lights do turn off when you goto position 1 in the ignition or remove the key all together. though position 2 illumintates the parking lights. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

My apologies for a bit of a long read, I have a tendency to ramble both in person and while typing 

Cheers
-Adam

[DesktopDave]

You'll be needing K7 - it's an unloader relay.  It's designed to cut power while the car is cranking.  Without it there, many of your electrical systems won't have power...instead of being momentarily disconnected by K7 as designed, they're now permanently disconnected.

K6 is also fairly  important, it's the rad fan high speed relay.  As you've mentioned, K8 is optional - it's the fog light relay.

I'm not sure about these particular relays (I can check for you) but BMW did spec some Bosch relays with internal resistors and/or diodes.  That'll be reflected in the part number and/or case color.

[Gabs]

Im curious Dave what systems would be effected by having no K7 ? As I currently don't have the K7 but also haven't experienced any systems/components lacking power.

Another very odd happening this morning, as I stated, the blower motor was only working on setting 4(High). I was driving to get my coffee this morning and the fan switch was set to 3 and very literally out of the blue my fan came to life. It now operates normally on all setting. Confused? me to  Damn gremlins

I'm not sure my car ever made use of a K6 though, as it was never equipped with AC, thus no electrical fan was used.

[DesktopDave]

The ETM says that our E30's use both the K5 & K7 relays as unloaders.  Do you have a copy of the ETM?

A/C only uses the low speed relay.  All E30s have two fans - the engine fan and the aux fan in front of the radiator.  Both low and high speed relays are switched on by the thermo sensor in the radiator.

The fan blower might be having trouble with the resistor board.  It's mounted on the firewall side, under the fan casing.  Could be an intermittent short, loose connector, etc.