Engine won't turn

[kaisergk]

Hello, I am having trouble starting my 91 318is. I turn the key, there's a clicking noise and all the lights go on but starter won't engage. I replaced the starter because I thought it was the solenoid, same thing happens. All the fuses are good and the car run's fine when you push start it. Any ideas???
Thanks

[kaisergk]

Forgot to mention that there is no aftermarket alarm system installed, so I was wondering if the e30 has some kind of kill switch

[DesktopDave]

Here's my guesses:
Did you have the battery load tested?  If not, do that first.  It'll eliminate the first (& most likely) problem.

Next, I'd check the engine grounding straps.  They tend to "expire" after 20 years or so...some tend to corrode at the grounding bolts, some get burned out from the 80amps or so that the starter uses.  All that current generates a good bit of heat if the terminals are dirty, degrading the copper wire internally.

Make sure you have the black/yellow wire connected to the starter too.  It's the 'signal' wire.  Starter won't turn without it.

Finally, it could be a problem with your igntion switch.  Those lock cyl. barrels can wear out at really high miles.

[kaiser16]

How would I go about conclusively eliminating a faulty ignition switch, I don't want to start taking that apart and finding out that its not the problem

[deansweet]

One of my kids cars died on him a couple nights ago and had same issue.
Lights, windows, etc worked fine. Had the battery checked (took 58 minutes) and it proved good.
Pulled and had alt tested and it failed almost immediately.
So... with that in mind. The fact the lights, power windows, etc worked means the massive batteries in these cars may have signs of power but not enough amps to turn the starter.  If you want to see if alt is good, after you push start the car check the volts at the battery when running. It should read 13.4+ volts.

1) pull battery and take to Autozone, AdvanceAuto, Pep Boys, etc and have them test the battery. If it passes, read on.  (10mm and 13mm wrench)
2) check the cables at battery and at the alt/starter paying special attention to ground cables.
3) pull the alternator and have it checked at Autozone, AdvanceAuto, Pep Boys, etc. (std screwdriver, 10mm, 13mm(x2) and 19mm wrench.)

[kaiser16]

I recharged the battery and still nothing, I'm kinda stumped here, I will have to check the ignition switch next, thanks for the suggestions!

[DesktopDave]

Charging the battery won't give you a good indicator of load capacity.  If you're even remotely suspicious of the battery, get it load tested.  I've had plenty of batteries that held a solid 12VDC, but failed as soon as I turned the key.  The important bit here is amperage, and that's difficult to test at home.  I suspect your battery can't put out enough amps to turn the motor over.

IIRC you can test the key switch by pulling the small black/yellow starter wire off the starter.  Have someone turn the key to the start position and hold it there until you can get a voltmeter on it.  That black/yellow wire should be getting approx 12VDC.  BTW, be carful near those starter terminals when the battery is connected...they're on the un-fused side of the engine harness.

That clicking you hear is the unloader relays cycling - if the key switch or the alarm system was at fault, you shouldn't hear any noises at all.