Changed filter housing gasket...now low oil pressure!? HELP

[Nick_S]

So as the title states.  My oil filter housing had been leaking like crazy.  Replaced the gasket, the o-ring and the oil pressure sensor.  As well as some other stuff (rethread valve cover bolts, intake manifold gasket, spark plugs, thermostat).  Anyways, got it all back together today and it fires right up but the oil pressure light is on and the valves are ticking bad, like a real cold temp start bad.  I had used that Next-gen recycled oil 10w-40.  It ran for a few and the light went away but still was ticking a bit.  Shut it off, checked the oil level and it was fine, no horrible leaks from anywhere.  Start it up again and drive it around the block, it had been sitting for 3 weeks so was hoping maybe it just needed the oil circulated around.  Still ticking and if I sit idle for too long the oil dummy light comes on.  Drove it home.

Swapped out the oil pressure sensor for the old one figuring maybe it was just faulty unit?  restarted and sounded quieter with no oil light.  Drove it around the block.  Ticking comes back.  Parked it in the garage and figured maybe that next-gen oil is just shit.  So I went and picked up Castrol GTX 20w-50.  The M50 in my wagon is real sensitive to oil and will tick a bit with the wrong oil.  Changed the oil again.  Start it up.  Oil pressure light stays on for a bit longer than a normal oil change and went away.  Was quieter but still ticking (not the normal M42 tick).  Now I'm at a dead end where I've tried all the basic things that I know of to check and hence why I'm asking here.  What possibly could be causing my low oil pressure and valve tick?  Changing the gasket was pretty straight forward so I'm not sure if I could botched that up?  Any help is appreciated.  Also should note, the engine showed none of these characteristics before I replaced anything leading me to believe that in the process I installed something incorrectly.  I'm just unsure what to look for before I tear back into it.
Thanks
Nick

Pics of the motor.  Just got done cleaning and repainting everything.

[DesktopDave]

Spam filter nailed your post - I approved it.  Now everyone else can see it as well.

You tried everything I'd have done - I'd assume that the pump just needed to prime and fill the lubrication system again - like the chain tensioner is empty or something like that - and those demands kept pressure pretty low.  The timing chain will rattle like the devil until that tensioner fills with oil, BTW.   Scared the heck out of me the last time I messed with mine.

I'd also guess that the sender is at fault - maybe it has a bubble in the pressure chamber - but you swapped it back.  I'd put a gauge on it first to see what's really going on - you don't want to mess with potentially low oil pressure.

Bentley says the switch should be closed circuit to ground with the motor off and open circuit with the motor running.  The pump should run 7psi at idle, 63-ish max at higher engine speeds (when the relief valve kicks in).

[deansweet]

the no oil pressure happened to me when i swapped out the oil filter housing gasket on the 318i. I ended up pulling it all apart, removed the pressure sensor and gave the housing a nice bath on the parts cleaner. Then used another new gasket and aall was better when done. I dunno if a piece of the old o-ring caused me issues or if the gasket wasn't seated properly.

I did this three times in two-days by the way so getting to that housing is something I could probably do blind-folded...

Kudos on how nice your engine looks!

-Dean

[Nick_S]

Spam filter nailed your post - I approved it.  Now everyone else can see it as well.

You tried everything I'd have done - I'd assume that the pump just needed to prime and fill the lubrication system again - like the chain tensioner is empty or something like that - and those demands kept pressure pretty low.  The timing chain will rattle like the devil until that tensioner fills with oil, BTW.   Scared the heck out of me the last time I messed with mine.

I'd also guess that the sender is at fault - maybe it has a bubble in the pressure chamber - but you swapped it back.  I'd put a gauge on it first to see what's really going on - you don't want to mess with potentially low oil pressure.

Bentley says the switch should be closed circuit to ground with the motor off and open circuit with the motor running.  The pump should run 7psi at idle, 63-ish max at higher engine speeds (when the relief valve kicks in).

Thanks!  Was wondering why the thread had no responses or any views.  Tomorrow I'm going to drain and capture the oil for reuse but I want to pull the lower pan and make sure 1)no upper bolts have worked their way loose 2) perhaps a piece of crud fell in the passage and has partially blocked the pickup?  Also going to see if anyone has an oil pressure gauge I can borrow to double check.

the no oil pressure happened to me when i swapped out the oil filter housing gasket on the 318i. I ended up pulling it all apart, removed the pressure sensor and gave the housing a nice bath on the parts cleaner. Then used another new gasket and aall was better when done. I dunno if a piece of the old o-ring caused me issues or if the gasket wasn't seated properly.

I did this three times in two-days by the way so getting to that housing is something I could probably do blind-folded...

Kudos on how nice your engine looks!

-Dean

On top of removing the pan, I'm going to pull the filter housing and get another new gasket for it aswell.  Just to be sure.  And I feel you on the blind folded part.  I could probably change my alternator in 15 min flat at this point, haha.  Thanks for the kind words!  

Any other suggestions are hugely appreciated!
Nick

[deansweet]

Also going to see if anyone has an oil pressure gauge I can borrow to double check.

What's your location? Since I am STILL waiting for bushings I might be able to help out.
Cincinnati/Dayton, Ohio area here.

[Nick_S]

I'm up in Columbus.

[Nick_S]

Just had a thought.  I pulled the oil filter to check in there and did notice the oil looked a bit frothy.  Like it had air bubbles in it.  I'm guessing something didn't seal up 100% and I have an air leak.

[bme30]

Nice engine... Looks familiar



Dont have a pic on my phone before the itbs but i did the valve cover copper, upper intake black, tb and afm copper 2 years ago.  

Once i redo the fg plenum it will be copper and the itbs black.

To stay on topic i did the same job over the summer.







What a mess...

But once cleaned and reassembled.  No leaks and no oil psi issues  

Did you check if the oil pump bolts are tight or in the lower oil pan?

If you didn't change the timing cover gaskets yet... Its coming.. Mine went last month...



When that goes take the time and do both the upper and lower gaskets and water pump since you are there... Along with the chain guides etc.

Hope everything works out!

[Nick_S]

Well there's the damn problem!  Lower left of the gasket.



Just gotta find one local tomorrow as I'd rather now a week for one shipped here.

[Nick_S]

My posts aren't even showing up and need approved.  Over this forum.

[romkasponka]

Have you installed check valve correct way?

[DesktopDave]

I approved your 'missing link' post.  I've determined that our spam filter is a bit on the sarcastic side in decisions it takes.  I suspect it was written by masochists.

But...back on topic...this thread is full of awesome!  Great find - you likely saved that motor.

[deansweet]

I have a spare gasket if you want to meet somewhere in the middle?
For future reference. It made it allot easier to get the thing all centered and mated to block after I removed the oil dipstick tube.
That little tab that bolts to alt bracket is what I blamed my improper gasket mating...

-Dean