Lifter tick dissapeared

[sheepdog]

After changing my oil pump/timing chain housing, and chain, my lifter tick has dissapeared.

Possible reasons for this:
Better oil pressure... This could do it, but I do not think oil pressure would have changed significantly. Though fresh gaskets on the pickup may also have added to it. Unfortunately I have no idea what my oil pressure was before or after.

The other possibility:
Timing chain... My timing chain had a few rollers missing (more like many) and I am suspecting that was causing the tick, enough oil would quiet it down once it got enough on it maybe?


Any thoughts on this?
If it was the chain, it may be why others are having tick as well. Could also have been a combination of the 2.

[Ramblin MAn]

Your timing chain had rollers missing? Damn! I'm suprised you didn't slip the sprocket and bend valves. Good thing you caught it in time.

[Zoso]

When I first got my car, it had a nice lifter tick to it.  Over the next few months and several oil changes, I started changing my oil viscosity.  I noticed less ticking with thinner oil but more oil consumption.  I attributed the less tick to the fact that the thinner oil was a bit easier to pump and probably kept my oil pressure a bit higher.

My feeling is that your new pump is probably giving you higher pressure.

Was there a reason you replaced the pump?

[kowalski]

I switched synthetic blends to ELF oil, expensive ass shit, but my tick is mostly gone.

[sheepdog]

Your timing chain had rollers missing? Damn! I'm suprised you didn't slip the sprocket and bend valves. Good thing you caught it in time.

Not the pins, just the rollers covering them.

[sheepdog]

When I first got my car, it had a nice lifter tick to it.  Over the next few months and several oil changes, I started changing my oil viscosity.  I noticed less ticking with thinner oil but more oil consumption.  I attributed the less tick to the fact that the thinner oil was a bit easier to pump and probably kept my oil pressure a bit higher.

My feeling is that your new pump is probably giving you higher pressure.

Was there a reason you replaced the pump?

The chain was shelling (the rollers were breaking off).
A bolt laying in my pan was pushed upwards when the pan bottomed out. Pushing the rollers through the pickup screen.

Which then caused this... (Bmwman91 also had the same thing happen)
See this thread for more info.

[kowalski]

ah yes, i remember this nightmare... i checked my bolts right after this, i had one on the pan and one loose. the gasket hadn't shifted at all, and i retorqued and locktighted them all that next day!

[nickmpower]

so did you have no oil pressure for an amount of time?

[kowalski]

so did you have no oil pressure for an amount of time?

me? no i never lost oil pressure... if I'm who your asking.

[sheepdog]

so did you have no oil pressure for an amount of time?

Oh yeah it lost oil pressure. The pump grenaded.

I shut it down within 1/3 of a second of it happening (quick reflexes), but to make sure it made it up the next hill I restarted it again for about 2 or 3 seconds to get back a bit of speed. My house was a block down the road from the hill (luckily). There was still oil in the system though (which luckily was synthetic) so nothing was hurt.

As long as you get things stopped within a few seconds, you should not hurt anything. Bearings are made to take some abuse like this, for this exact reason. You do just as much damage during an oil change and starting your car.

I did take a look at the cams though during the repair to make sure nothing happened. Everything looked fine. I have heard of Chevy's driving 100 miles on no oil, though the engine was toast by the end...

[denious]

What if I just recently bought the car, the PO was a total asshole (luckily the engine has about 30k on it...) so I have no idea if he ever changed the chain?

Anyways, the engine's a 1994 m42 and I don't know if it has all the same problems as the 1991; what parts should I change and what problems to check for so that I can be sure nothing goes wrong??

[sheepdog]

30 is nothing.
I would consider changing the timing chain tensioner.
Also consider dropping the lower pan in the next year and checking for bolts.

Otherwise your chain should be good for a while. I would worry more about the profile gasket.

[denious]

From what I've seen it's gonna cost me a rather big amount of money to get that to the dealer... And I'm not gonna have my own garage available for 2-3 months more... Let's hope it lasts!

How hard would it be to change the profile gasket myself taking into consideration I'm no professional? :confused:

Lol this is such a money pit! I've already purhcashed a new driveshaft, whole hand-brake system, differential gasket and the seals, bushings, tie rods, even control arms, speed sensor, right output shaft and a bunch of minor things!!

[EDIT] Apparently this only affects engines before 11/93, I believe mine is '94 edition! Where can I get the exact information on that?

[sheepdog]

From what I've seen it's gonna cost me a rather big amount of money to get that to the dealer... And I'm not gonna have my own garage available for 2-3 months more... Let's hope it lasts!

How hard would it be to change the profile gasket myself taking into consideration I'm no professional? :confused:

Lol this is such a money pit! I've already purhcashed a new driveshaft, whole hand-brake system, differential gasket and the seals, bushings, tie rods, even control arms, speed sensor, right output shaft and a bunch of minor things!!

[EDIT] Apparently this only affects engines before 11/93, I believe mine is '94 edition! Where can I get the exact information on that?

Honestly, I would not worry about the Profile gasket. Especially being as late in production as yours was. I would let it go and see what happens. Replacing that gasket takes  A LOT of work, if you bust your ass probably 2 days worth.

If you wait and see if you have a bad one, you will have a tow bill, and need to have the head possibly straightened. Otherwise the work will be the same. My opinion is wait and see. You may be able to call a dealer and verify, but from what I and others have seen, getting e30 info from a dealer is like asking a Ford dealer if they carry Model T parts. Most guys who know the e30 have retired.


Quick rundown of what is involved (by no means complete)...
First method..
Pull intake, exhaust, drain and remove radiator, shroud  and fan. Radiator is not necessary, but a smart move as you  are not going to damage it when out. Easy to remove and makes work on the front of the engine easier.
Remove all belts, pulleys, timing sensors.
Pull waterpump, neck, A/C bracket (let A/C  pump  hang) and  timing chain covers.
Remove timing chain tensioner  and idler  pulley, then chain.
Pull head.
replace gaskets, put head  back  on, time the cams, replace everything.

Second method (same as replacing oil pump)
Drain and remove radiator (necessary), shroud  and fan.
Remove all belts, pulleys, timing sensors.
Pull waterpump, neck, A/C bracket (let A/C  pump  hang) and timing chain covers.
Remove timing chain tensioner and idler pulley, then chain.
Remove  lower  pan, unbolt  and lift pass. side engine mount (unbolt from frame, not engine).
Unbolt upper pan, slide it to one side.
Remove timing chain housing.
Replace gaskets, use feeler guages to help slide the timing chain housing back into place. Use silicone to help seal it.
Use a jack to lift the timing chain housing up towards head to help compress  the profile gasket and  align holes, only little pressure is needed. Use a block of wood to protect the housing.
Replace chain system and time the cams, replace everything.

[denious]

Thanks a lot for the info!!! I'll keep it all for future reference. And if I'll find the time and the place I'll do it instead of waiting for something bad to happen...