head install question

[91 318i]

about to install a cylinder head. hopefully without removing the cams. i plan on getting the special tool to use. its not that expensive at 36 bucks id rather do that then ruin my other socket for one reason.

i had a couple of thoughts on how to do this

1- to set cams at TDC and crank at TDC then carefully set  the head/gasket on there and torque down. will my valves hit the pistons? is that the prefered method?

or 2- turn crank a little bit past TDC before setting the head on then after torquing the head down returning the crank to TDC. obviously while the cams are at TDC. then hook up chain, tensioner etc.

also if anybody has any advice or pointers PLEASE tell me as i have never done a head before i just decided to go for it and replace it after i cracked my old one.

my main area of concern is whether or not there are any specifics to setting the chain on the cams correctly. obviously i dont wanna screw up my valves. i just got everything fixed up not for me to ruin it.

the other stuff seems pretty straight forward ive done most everything except a cylinder head or anything bottom end but if anybody has any tips or tricks or pointers id really appreciate the input

[DesktopDave]

I haven't done one on the M42 myself, but on every other one I've done everything has been at TDC.  Removing remnants of the head gasket was always the most annoying part.  Be sure you blow out the bolt holes - if any liquid like oil/coolant/cleaner fills those holes up too far, you'll crack the block when you torque the head bolts.

I also tend to lightly oil the head bolts before reassembly.  That does change the torque readings, YMMV.

Also take care that the head doesn't fall over onto the valves when it's off the car.

[91 318i]

currently its sitting upside down covered by an old but clean rag also resting on another old but clean rag. valves up, cams down. cams are bolted down. its resting on the studs/nuts. i hope thats not bad for it. it seemed to be okay when i set it there.

[ti_tony]

I installed my head with method #2, looking at the motor standing in front, it turns clockwise. With the head off and chain on, had my son keep the chain tight and "follow" me around to TDC going clockwise, then turn it back about 40 degrees. Used ARP assembly lube on the new bolts.
 Do you have the torque angle wrench, cam lock, flywheel lock and 22 Ft. lbs torque wrench?

[91 318i]

I have a cam lock and a torque wrench. No flywheel lock. No angle wrench. I had a guy at work print out the Mitchell instructions which includes the procedure and torque specs. Is the flywheel lock that important? I can't imagine it is I feel like as lock as I keep the cams at tdc with the cam lock and the crank as close as possible using the timing marks that I should be able to get it right. If its not possible then I will find a flywheel lock

[ti_tony]

For the flywheel lock I used a 5/16 transfer punch. It's like .020 undersized and worked well. After placing in the hole, I used a wooden dowl down the sparkplug hole and felt the dead spot and left it there until done.
I bought a high dollar german thermostat that failed so I might be doing it again, may have cracked the head...again. The torque angle wrench I bought from NAPA, it worked but was to much money for what it was, I made a better one, and will use it next time.

[91 318i]

Picked up an angle wrench from Autozone for 10 bucks. Got all my parts except for 3 which are hopefully coming in tomorrow.

Now when i find TDC i managed to find a picture somewhere that showed the crank pulley but the pulley on that persons car is different from the pulley on my car being that theres had a space on the backside of the sensor teeth where the degrees were marked. Mine doesnt have that space and i couldnt seem to find any sort of marking to determine where in the cycles i am.

[91 318i]

have all my parts. i had a friend who works at a body shop customize my upper intake manifold. i painted the valve cover myself. i'll have to post pictures when its together it looks amazing the way he did the manifold. not perfect but ive never seen one done up anything even close to this. im happy with it.

anyways. got all my gaskets new head etc. all gasketing surfaces are cleaned up. replaced the fan clutch. got a new thermostat cuz im there anyways. the fan clutch was the easiest thing ive ever replaced. dont need the special tool. just a prybar and a 1 1/4" open end wrench. swap the fan over and done.

now im probably just retarded for doing this but i thought i read somewhere that your supposed to take apart and reassemble the chain tensioner after removing it from the head. so thats what i did. however. on my 3rd or 4th attempt at trying to get the clip to hit the catch point i managed to get the clip cock eyed in there and it got stuck between the outer housing part and the piston and spread out the housing part so its toast. cant reuse anything of it because i cant get the piston to budge at all.

anyways. after i pick up a new tensioner, updated of course. am i supposed to take it apart and reassemble it then install it? or just oil it up and plop it in the hole? im hoping i can just throw it in there cuz i will surely break the new one too haha

and finally. what marks do i need to line up to verify TDC. theres an arrow on the filter housing. and i have the #1 piston at its highest point #2 at its lowest. does it matter if its at the true TDC for #1 or do i just need it to be correct as far as #1 piston to #1 valves being in the correct position so as not to come in contact

and finally i have no idea if i got a thicker head gasket or if i got the standard thickness gasket. nor do i even know if the head was machined down or if it was just cleaned up. i just found a place brought my old one as a core then took the good one. will i be safe? or if my head was indeed machined down a little will my valves contact the piston if im using a standard thickness gasket.

[ti_tony]

On your tensioner,let it expand, put a little oil in the hole and install it expanded, that's from this site, can't remember who posted it but it worked great. Find the lead thread on the plug so you don't have to turn it too much while your compressing the spring before it hooks up, hope that makes since. On TDC theres a hole right below the starter and a hole in the flywheel,8 mm I used a 5/16 transfer punch, line these holes up and insert the special tool or the 5/16 rod. The head has little voids or pockets on the mating surface, I'm looking for the measurement myself, but measure the depth of these and it will tell how much has been taken off. Do a search of the site, there are some great posts with much information. The torque angle wrench is more of a gauge that snaps on to your breaker bar and gives you 90 degree's increments, is that what you bought?

[91 318i]

Followed those instructions pretty closely. As well as other info I found on this site and on others. To be honest I used two wrenches and a pair of vice grips to hold my cams in place and used a level to make sure they were straight. And I isn't use a flywheel lock or punch at all. I set the engine at TDC then set the head on and somehow the marks on the old sprockets lined up exactly with the marks on the new cams so I just bolted it down as it was. Finished assembly and added coolant. Change the oil and filter. Made that no oil noise for about ten seconds then had a tick until I drove it for about 8 to 10 miles. Runs flawlessly. Starts everytime. Runs smoother than it did before.

Thanks to everyone who posted here and on other threads that are relevant to cylinder head replacement. I managed to find or get all the info I needed and it payed off. Thanks again

[ti_tony]

Good to hear. Their great little motors.

[91 318i]

car was running GREAT!!! until monday......
monday it was running great in the morning. after work it was running exceptionally smooth for some reason. drove across town. noticed an intermittent miss. drove home. still smooth but still missing.

later that day i get ready to leave for a friends house. does this no start thing where the starter engages but wont turn the motor over, as if it is hydrolocking. which it did when the old head was cracked. however this time instead of white smoke its blue smoke. now the only two conclusions i can come up with are that either i grenaded a set of rings and its getting crappy compression but somehow locking up a cylinder. or my brand new head has bad valve seals.

any other thoughts? anybody had an issue like this? please post input

[Generalkgb]

Hi there in my experience its super important to lock the crank at tdc
And if im not mistaken the crank pulley has a mark be it very small
And a arrow on the lower timing chain cover.

[Generalkgb]

Hi there in my experience its super important to lock the crank at tdc
And if im not mistaken the crank pulley has a mark be it very small
And a arrow on the lower timing chain cover.

[91 318i]

so after the head was on the car for literally 2 weeks, i had another issue. it restarted blowing white smoke. intermittently running rough or missing.

heres what happens
at a complete cold start. its starts up fine but during the cranking over it hesitates like one of the cylinders is locking up. then it starts. after which it begins the normal thing trying to find its idle point. then it finds it and begins to have its intermittent miss. then after its been running for about 30 seconds it runs smooth.

i let it run for about 5 minutes, just idling. perfectly running. then if i try to give it gas it stutters but picks up pretty quick. after giving it gas for a while it begins to blow more and more white smoke until finally it gets to its max smoke blowing point?.... then after about 10 minutes of running it begins to get too hot so i shut it down.

is this a messed up head or a blown gasket. on a side note yes coolant is in the oil and yes it is losing coolant. also it is losing oil. not nearly as fast as the coolant but enough to be concerned.

any and all help is appreciated