Author Topic: 0W30 Synthetic  (Read 3931 times)

EricW

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0W30 Synthetic
« on: November 16, 2012, 10:30:37 PM »
I just changed out my oil filter housing gasket and replaced the oil with an Esso Heavy Duty, Full Synthetic 0W30.  I'm in Calgary AB and it's mid November, the temperatures get frigid and I feel okay about the grade for the next six months at least.  

They say that a lighter grade full synthetic is prone to finding it's way through older seals, and if that's the case I'd like to switch back to a thicker conventional oil and end the experiment.  Question is will the change back be simple and direct or might the synthetic create some effects that aren't reversible, for example cleaning cleaning out crud that was preventing leakage or softening seals or something.

Curious your thoughts.  Thanks all.

Geoff

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0W30 Synthetic
« Reply #1 on: November 17, 2012, 05:49:33 AM »
while its definitely true that a thin synthetic will tend to leak easier, and can leak thru seals that previously held,  I think you can go back to conventional oil wil no penalty.  Using a heavier synthetic may work for you also.   I am using a 5/40  synthetic that seems to stay in the old girl..mostly;)
                                                                            Geoff

DesktopDave

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0W30 Synthetic
« Reply #2 on: November 17, 2012, 10:56:11 AM »
I also use a heavier full synthetic after I tried out 0w20 for a while.  Typically I run 10w40 or 20w50 Mobil1 with the silver cap year-round.  It's cheap and common, less than $30/5L.  Thicker synthetic oil doesn't seem to impact fuel mileage much, and I can normally stretch out my oil changes to annually/12k miles based on the wear metals I've seen in used oil analysis (UOA). My motor leaks oil regardless of brand, viscosity or origin.  I keep  meaning to replace the seals on the oil filter housing, but haven't done  it yet.

I also use the [frighteningly thin] 0w20 'advanced fuel economy' with the green  cap in my '06 Mazda MPV.  At ~58K miles it's been doing very well according to UOA.  The Ford Durateq V6/3.0 is a fine motor - built far "tighter" than old BMW motors - factory spec is 0w20 conventional year 'round.  Blackstone assured me I could run that thin 0w20 oil safely up to 18K miles  based on their tests.  Their advice has saved me quite a bit of money,  and peace of mind is priceless.

I'm not recommending extended oil drain intervals for  everyone - it is unorthodox and a bit risky - but if you try it I'd strongly recommend annual UOA's and new  oil filters every six calendar months regardless.  The basic test from Blackstone is only $25; cheaper than an oil change.  Another $10 will upgrade you with their wear analysis.  I can't recommend Blackstone highly enough - they're accurate, fast and they personally update every sample based on your testing history and usage model.
« Last Edit: November 17, 2012, 11:15:01 AM by DesktopDave »
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romkasponka

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0W30 Synthetic
« Reply #3 on: November 17, 2012, 12:57:33 PM »
With warm engine it will leak less with 20w60 and with 0w20 will leak more. All is about viscosity.

Synthetic oil just washes engine internals much better and that is why it sometimes can start to leak somewhere but I think you engine will like to be clean from inside instead of collecting carbon deposits everywhere with mineral oil.
« Last Edit: November 17, 2012, 12:59:35 PM by romkasponka »
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Hunsbergring

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« Reply #4 on: November 21, 2012, 03:18:08 PM »
I agree with all of this.  The 0-weight oils will leak more, regardless (especially at lower temps, where 20w50 is like molasses), but with frosty Alberta temps to deal with I'd just accept some leakage and go as thin as you can.  

What it probably comes down to, realistically, is whether or not you run a block heater.  If you don't, you'll be best off with a light oil like your 0w30 or 5w30.  If you do, you can comfortably stay with thick oil year round.  

Here in Southern Ontario, I've always run 20w50 in the summer and 10w40 in the winter.  It's sometimes a bit of a hard crank on those rare -20 mornings, but not too bad!

romkasponka

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« Reply #5 on: November 21, 2012, 04:55:42 PM »
If you have only -20 max there is no reason not to use 10w60 for all the year. If it is too expensive you can go for 0w40 or something like this. Ow20 is jus winter oil IMHO.

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keflaman

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« Reply #6 on: November 21, 2012, 07:39:36 PM »
Quote from: romkasponka;117921
If you have only -20 max there is no reason not to use 10w60 for all the year. If it is too expensive you can go for 0w40 or something like this. Ow20 is jus winter oil IMHO.



Is this chart in Celsius or Fahrenheit?

romkasponka

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0W30 Synthetic
« Reply #7 on: November 21, 2012, 08:18:50 PM »
Quote from: keflaman;117923
Is this chart in Celsius or Fahrenheit?

Celcius

http://www.flitalia.it/en/fl/manuale/en/omot_0104.htm

http://www.flitalia.it/en/fl/manuale/en/omot_0104_au.htm

p.s. I forgot about Fahrenheits :D
« Last Edit: November 21, 2012, 08:21:53 PM by romkasponka »
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