Author Topic: Help Needed: Control Arm Removal (Read 3501 times)

goonster · « **on:** December 11, 2006, 01:29:31 PM »

The car: 318is w. 200k+ miles.

The problem: How the heck do I get the passenger side control arm out? The nut on top of the subframe is below the exhaust headers and just behind the motor mount. There is is a little heatshield tab on the motor mount that further reduces access. The fit is so tight that I can't even slip a regular 22mm socket (w/o wrench) onto the nut. Access from below is reduced because of the exhaust on that side. :mad:

I can get a stubby wrench onto the nut, but that's about it. I know from the other side that this nut will take about 150+ ft-lbs of torque to get off. No way I can do that with the stubby, as there isn't even enough room to hit the end with a hammer.

How do you do this without jacking up the engine, or dropping the subframe? :confused:

Zoso · « **Reply #1 on:** December 11, 2006, 04:07:19 PM »

First, apply plenty of PB blaster.

Second, the best way to get it off is to use a crow-foot style wrench.

Naturally, I didn't have one of those so I had to take it off with a normal ratchet. I removed the heat shield (and also my sway bar but I was replacing parts on there anyways). I was able to get at it from above with several extenders enough to loosen it. Then I finished it off with a ratchet from below.

Check out my webpage for more info. Click the link in my sig.

goonster · « **Reply #2 on:** December 11, 2006, 04:21:06 PM »

Yep, that's the nut. ^^

I'll get a crowsfoot, and give that a shot.

Thanks!

2002maniac · « **Reply #3 on:** December 11, 2006, 07:36:15 PM »

I loosened the motor mount an jacked up the engine a bit, then I used a ratchet and a long extension and removed it from the engine bay.

Not much fun...

e9nine · « **Reply #4 on:** December 11, 2006, 08:58:37 PM »

Hate to say this but you're going to have to get creative.

On one of my older m42s I had to torch the nut to heat it up before it came off. Get a swivel extension and a high quality one at it too. Next make sure the extensions you use are well fitted, solid and of high quality. Disconnect the motor mounts if you have to in order to get more clearance and have at it.
I use a breaker bar with extensions to break mine loose. Please make sure to brace yourself well as a small slip can either seriously hurt you or damage the car if you slip or if you get inferior parts and the fall apart on you. I had a cheap swivel extension adapter break apart on me and barely avoided seriously hurting myself.

Good luck!

ScreamerBeemer · « **Reply #5 on:** December 12, 2006, 11:57:33 AM »

I just replaced my control arms, and that passenger side sucked. I think I spent 30 min laying on a cold floor picking at that nut with a wrench.

shellback · « **Reply #6 on:** December 12, 2006, 03:00:51 PM »

will a lift help? I have the chance of using one, and wonder if it would make the job easier?

goonster · « **Reply #7 on:** December 14, 2006, 02:48:02 PM »

Quote from: shellback;15485

will a lift help? I have the chance of using one, and wonder if it would make the job easier?

Not really. The challenge is getting a wrench on that nut, and then being able to exert the required force on that wrench. Positioning the car doesn't really enter into it.

I've ordered a crowfoot (they are not that easy to find in 22 mm), but will also try removing the small heat shield. If that heat shield is out of the way, I may be able to get a regular socket wrench on it, with a long extension, and possibly a swivel attachment.

Thank goodness I have time, an available garage, and good weather so the nice car doesn't get snowed on. Once I started the job, I found that I need rebuilt brake calipers, so the car won't be back on the road for a while.

Nothing like rushing a job to get hurt or break something! :eek:

M42Iberia · « **Reply #8 on:** December 16, 2006, 12:45:35 PM »

i had to support and lower the subframe a bit...i was able to attack the nut from both sides;)