Author Topic: Dirty D  (Read 11491 times)

DirtyD

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Dirty D
« Reply #15 on: October 21, 2012, 10:30:57 AM »
Thanks for the post, I actually found a one with the linkage for 300  shipped. Although that is one of the nicer looking g240's I have seen  and it is close to me so I am half way tempted haha. But I really need  the shifter rebuilt so the one I found is a good deal for me.
What all should I replace when I go to put in another trans? I  know I should get a new flex disc and center support bearing but is  there anything else I should put in while I'm under there? I would like  to get some of the slop out of the shifter as well.

I was also wondering if there is a way to tighten up steering without doing the e36 rack swap, if there is that would be great.

Edit: Parts are in, just have to wait until this Saturday to get the intake mess out of the way.
« Last Edit: October 23, 2012, 09:34:14 AM by DirtyD »

DirtyD

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Dirty D
« Reply #16 on: October 28, 2012, 08:48:14 AM »
Update, I tackled the mess under the intake last night with a good  friend of mine. I researched quite a bit about this project but did not  realize how HORRIBLY designed the intake system was until we took the  manifolds off.. WOW... just, wow..
I didn't have a good enough  camera around to take any picture worth looking at but I will say that  my engine bay looks amazing without all that crap under there.

(edit)well...here is a horrible camera phone picture for you:


I  need a new intake boot (one connecting to the TB), mine is cracked  right at the MAF. If anyone has one in good shape, let me know I am  interested.

Next on my list is to buy a g240
« Last Edit: October 28, 2012, 10:06:28 AM by DirtyD »

DirtyD

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Re: Dirty D
« Reply #17 on: August 27, 2014, 10:10:35 AM »
Small update..

Done quite a bit to my baby since I have posted in this topic. Replaced the transmission a while back, replaced front rotors and pads, replaced the thermostat and the housing piece. Did the valve cover gasket and all the timing components looked alright (to my knowledge) but I will post a picture/video here to see what you guys think. I would love to replace the whole timing set up, just not sure how much everything would cost. About to replace the blower motor before winter rolls in. Looking to replace all the front control arm stuff to tighten up the front end (she is a bit loose in the corners). Fresh filters all around, new belt (singular). Looking to do the power steering and AC delete, the PS pump leaks, and since my blower stopped working I took the belt off of the AC. If anyone has any info on how to get rid of the non-converted old AC stuff, let me know. I don't want to drain it until I know the best way to do so.

Still grill-less, haven't found a driver side front fender (schwartz) and last time I tried I couldn't get my current fender off to beat on it so I can get the grill on there. Any tips would be appreciated! :)

Video of the inside:
http://youtu.be/fFUKtxaokAc

DesktopDave

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Re: Dirty D
« Reply #18 on: August 28, 2014, 05:57:02 PM »
It's nice to see your car coming together. These cars are pretty well built - they can handle a beating.

Thanks for buying my parts too, I hope they're just what you need. I wish I'd read through this first - I have a set of L&R grilles too. They'd wouldn't have fit in the box I sent, though.
'08 Karmesinrot 128i 6MT
'86 Zinnoberrot 635CSi (M30B32/G265/3.46 torsen LSD)

Sold: '97 Montrealblau 318iS, '91 Brilliantrot 318i, '91 Brilliantrot 318iS

doitover

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Re: Dirty D
« Reply #19 on: August 29, 2014, 08:18:02 AM »
Just a thought on tightening up your steering. There is a large nut on the steering shaft above the pedals that comes loose. It takes a large wrench and quite a bit of force to tighten up. Made a huge difference on my car.

DirtyD

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Re: Dirty D
« Reply #20 on: August 31, 2014, 10:00:13 AM »

Control arms, ball joins, tie rods, etc are my next step to keeping my baby on the road. Been looking for cheap price but quality parts, currently looking at this ebay set but I am skeptical, what do you guys think? http://www.ebay.com/itm/230908244254?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I think your skepticism is warranted whenever something is described as "OE style". Suspension parts are too much trouble and work to skimp on quality.
« Last Edit: September 01, 2014, 05:13:19 AM by keflaman »

keflaman

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Re: Dirty D
« Reply #21 on: September 01, 2014, 05:16:12 AM »

Control arms, ball joins, tie rods, etc are my next step to keeping my baby on the road. Been looking for cheap price but quality parts, currently looking at this ebay set but I am skeptical, what do you guys think? http://www.ebay.com/itm/230908244254?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I think your skepticism is warranted whenever something is described as "OE style". Suspension parts are too much trouble and work to skimp on quality.

Dammit! I didn't mean to edit your post! Please post again...sorry about that. :-[

DesktopDave

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Re: Dirty D
« Reply #22 on: September 01, 2014, 09:07:04 AM »
I've had mixed luck with eBay parts. I bought a set of E34 front suspension parts from FCP Euro, because I'd heard good things on Volvo forums. I had to return the "M5" alu thrust arms as they were nearly 1" too long. WTH?!? How hard is it to get the size right? The rest of it was generic (Moog, TRW?), but it made a big improvement. I'm not sure how long it lasted...I traded that car for a pair of E30s less than a year later.

I hate dealing with suspension work; I either postpone it or just do it right once and leave it. I've used generic, Meyle and Lemforder. Meyle used to be a good bit cheaper, but they're almost as much as Lemfoerder now. Best price I found on the Lemforder control arm is $101 at Blunttech. ECS isn't too far behind at $108. ECS also has a full kit for $319. I'm unsure of brand.

I'd recommend taking the car to a good indie shop and getting their opinion on the front suspension. Personally, I'd replace the steering links first. They're pretty easy to do, and tend to wear out faster than the control arm balljoints. Just measure the arms before pulling them, and match the length when installing the new parts. It'll get you in the ballpark. If the car is still sloppy after that, go after the control arms and bushings next. Then get the alignment you'll need.

It's a shame that the front control arm bushings are such a PITA. Those wear out the fastest of all, but once you've installed them, they can't be removed again if you install new arms later. The solid M3 bushings are a big improvement. I'd recommend the centered ones. The offsets make the car feel better but tend to chew up tires in street driving. I've always been reluctant to use urethane parts, but they hav ethe big advantage of being reusable. I've been tempted by the Treehouse Racing eyeballs, but $200 is a bit rich for me.
« Last Edit: September 07, 2014, 04:44:06 PM by DesktopDave »
'08 Karmesinrot 128i 6MT
'86 Zinnoberrot 635CSi (M30B32/G265/3.46 torsen LSD)

Sold: '97 Montrealblau 318iS, '91 Brilliantrot 318i, '91 Brilliantrot 318iS

deansweet

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Re: Dirty D
« Reply #23 on: September 01, 2014, 02:08:31 PM »
I bought all the front end parts from FCP Euro when I rebuilt the front end of the 318is.
Control arms, stabilizer end links, tie rod end links, lollipop bushings (basically this kit before it was available) - http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-kit-8-piece-e36-e36cakit8m - along with power steering reservior and hoses.
I had zero issue with the correct parts? and have ordered lots of parts from them since. Only issue I had with them was with shipping, one time. Part was shipped from Illinois, to California, to my house here in Southwest Ohio and it tooks like 11 days...
« Last Edit: September 01, 2014, 02:10:28 PM by deansweet »

DirtyD

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Re: Dirty D
« Reply #24 on: September 05, 2014, 10:30:28 AM »
Okay guys I have a question, I am doing a little body work and I am trying to get the front valance off. Do I have to take the front bumper off to get to it? If so, whoever took it off/put it on last stripped both of the main bolts holding the bumper on, how do I go about getting this bugger off?

DesktopDave

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Re: Dirty D
« Reply #25 on: September 07, 2014, 04:59:44 PM »
If those bumper bolts are stripped, they're a bitch to get at. They use a pretty big socket head bolt (10mm? allen key/hex head), but those sockets tend to get rusted out. Sometimes they're easy, other times they're impossible. You can't use heat because the bumper and core are plastic. You'll need an eazy-out along with a selection of left-handed bits. I prefer the square ones.

You can't get at them even if you remove the bumper cover, although that might be a good idea to protect it. The cover is only attached to the core with a bunch of those plastic expanding push-pins.

The bumper slides into two large clips on the quarters, I'm not sure how you'd get them off without removing the bumper first. There are also two fasteners in front holding the facia onto the quarter panels. There are also a few hidden fasteners inside each quarter, just forward of the door hinges. 
'08 Karmesinrot 128i 6MT
'86 Zinnoberrot 635CSi (M30B32/G265/3.46 torsen LSD)

Sold: '97 Montrealblau 318iS, '91 Brilliantrot 318i, '91 Brilliantrot 318iS

DirtyD

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Re: Dirty D
« Reply #26 on: September 08, 2014, 04:14:09 PM »
Alright, here is what I am dealing with:









I guess I will have to get a set of easy-out drill bits like you said, those bumper bolts are stripped like no ones business. What are the left handed bits for?