Author Topic: XMS standalone install (Read 10569 times)

Gunni · « **Reply #15 on:** December 12, 2006, 06:35:37 PM »

I checked with a timing light today and running 0 advance I found that 115degrees was right on the money, I painted the tooth with the mark in it white and also the marking on the chain cover, under the light they where right on target

I was having serious problems with driving the car, and was actually getting pretty worried for a while, turns out I had the ignition order wrong,
I did what the injectors where, 1-3 2-4 are paired together and thus I did 1-2-3-4 , but the timing is 1-3-4-2 , so 3 and 4 where never getting spark on the right time, I swapped it just now and ran the engine, it was ALOT better,
I�ll have to trim down the fuel as my wideband was obviously seeing 2 cylenders sending out unburned fuel,

Anyway, tomorrow I should be able to finally do some real tuning,
I�m also going to wire the injectors sequental as the wiring now is wrong,
they should be paired 1-4 and 2-3 , I�ll just go with the sequental,

Anyway, more later I�ll be able to post some maps soon

Alpine003 · « **Reply #16 on:** December 13, 2006, 09:03:10 AM »

Quote from: Gunni;15494

I
I did what the injectors where, 1-3 2-4 are paired together and thus I did 1-2-3-4 , but the timing is 1-3-4-2 , so 3 and 4 where never getting spark on the right time, I

I admit I've done this before too. Glad to see you made some progress. :cool:

Gunni · « **Reply #17 on:** December 13, 2006, 09:44:40 AM »

Don�t you guys have maps to share?
If so post them in a new thread, also explaining any required calculations needed to find the actual timing or fuel values

tim_s · « **Reply #18 on:** December 13, 2006, 01:52:06 PM »

Glad you're getting there Gunni. I have maps I'm more than happy to share; im not sure how useful they'll be as their designed for the 2.1 with ITBs etc; plus they are for MAF. I think the difference between our figures is probably dependent on whether you're counting from the mid point of the missing teeth, the start, or the end.

Gunni · « **Reply #19 on:** December 13, 2006, 03:54:10 PM »

Share them I�m just hunting for some ignition values,

my ign refrence is dead center of the marked tooth, so it�s in the middle.

124 is actually more then a tooth of.

tim_s · « **Reply #20 on:** December 13, 2006, 04:56:00 PM »

Gunni I'll sort out a stock M44 timing map for you when I'm on my home computer, will be more useful. I may be a degree or two out on mine, but certainly not a tooth; I set it up with my fairly crap advance timing light but checked it on a bosch dyno's expensive timing light setup.

Measuring like on this image of a 60-2 wheel, what measurement have you got?
(ignore the values, I just nicked it for the pic):

Gunni · « **Reply #21 on:** December 14, 2006, 03:48:41 AM »

Why do all those pics show reverse rotation, unless your looking at it from the engine side,

the gap sits fairly center on the top of the whee,,
the timing mark is at the mark on the drivers side and the arrow is pointing at it,
the sensor sits real low on the passenger side, exactly 20teeth from the gap
should I be counting the 2 teeth as well?

tim_s · « **Reply #22 on:** December 14, 2006, 01:59:23 PM »

Not sure what you mean gunni, i don't think the image is in reverse rotation if you look at the engine from the front; watch the crank bolt as you turn the starter, its clockwise. explain what you mean?
As for the number of teeth, I'm not sure how you should count tbh dude, but as I suggested earlier i reckon that's where our discrepency is coming from. Mine's measured in the same way as the pic (the pic's from the MS site - I just followed instructions!), which would suggest I'm two degrees out.
I'll adjust accordingly, this has been useful! Sorry I'm not sure about yours, do your instructions make it clear?

It's cool you can do sequential injection, MS can't do that.

Gunni · « **Reply #23 on:** December 14, 2006, 03:03:34 PM »

I�m wrong it rotates clockwise, nevermind that.

I�m counting from the tooth under the vr sensor until the last tooth before the gap,

Anyway, I got a guy who�s into these xms�s systems to fix my map, as mine was all out of wack, the change is amazing, I added the extra fuel as mine was to low and now it�s very drivable, It hasn�t even had more then an hour of tuning yet, although that guy is just crazy good, and his map is spot on,

I�m going to hook up the wideband to the standalone tomorrow for better logging and road tuning, I�m pretty sure it will be very good before the end of the weekend,

tim_s · « **Reply #24 on:** December 14, 2006, 04:32:16 PM »

Let's have a look at this timing map then? I've found off- and low-load low rpm timing the most tricky; also high load low rpm is difficult - with the fuel i'm using it feels well retarded and sluggish there even when only a degree or so off DBL.

Gunni · « **Reply #25 on:** December 14, 2006, 07:18:39 PM »

I�ll post it up tomorrow with explanations, you might also want to trow yours up , and also who ever had MS and M42.

Alpine003 · « **Reply #26 on:** December 15, 2006, 09:40:39 AM »

Quote from: Gunni;15595

I�m wrong it rotates clockwise, nevermind that.

You my friend have Honduh syndrome.

Gunni, when you get your map sorted, I'd be interested to see how your throttle tip in characteristics are.

Gunni · « **Reply #27 on:** December 15, 2006, 09:56:51 AM »

you mean fueling while I jerk the throttle?
I�ll set that up when I�m done with the base line tuning,
Didn�t you have a MS M42 ??
If so post up those maps in the thread I made

Gunni · « **Reply #28 on:** February 01, 2007, 03:22:29 AM »

I�ve been trying to tune a little and little when I get the chance,
now the afr�s are in the 15-18�s depending on load, extremely low load like coasting down a hill are in the 18�s, while coasting is in 16�s and general driving is about 15�s, I need to tune the WOT for low 13�s it�s mid 14�s now so I�m not stomping on it.

I must add that the car pulls very well , not below 4k but around and above it pulls well to 7k.