Author Topic: 318is head issue (Read 4262 times)

Alexdc12 · « **on:** September 08, 2012, 04:01:35 AM »

Hi i have a 1995 318is and had a coolant leak. It was comin from under the inlet manifold. Took the inlet manifold off today and tried to get the lower manifold off but cant get the wiring harness off! Any way i could see what i needed to and was very upset! The nipple that runs off the block to the tb heater has snapped off!!!!!!! What are my options?
Many thanks in advance

DesktopDave · « **Reply #1 on:** September 08, 2012, 07:40:58 AM »

We had another guy with the same problem. I believe that he just plugged the hole with a large bolt, maybe JB Weld. I'm unfamiliar with the e36 intake (hopefully that'll change soon), so I can't give you specific advice. I expect someone with more experience in the later cars will be around soon though. I'd also recommended using JB Weld to mount an aluminum air compressor barb union fitting in that hole for a quick fix. To do a more permanent fix, I'd suggest drilling & tapping a hole for a threaded barb fitting or a bolt.

You're talking about that rear nipple that hose #16 fits on, right?
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BE53&mospid=47480&btnr=11_1158&hg=11&fg=35

I'm pretty sure you might not want to hear this right now, but I strongly recommend 'deleting' all those hoses - it's not as hard as you think. Here's the thread about deleting all that crap. I've done it myself and I'd recommend it highly.

In my e30, that wiring plenum under the intake is held on by two nuts under the lower intake manifold. Yours looks a little more complicated:
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BE53&mospid=47480&btnr=12_0624&hg=12&fg=28

Anyone know specifically how to get that wiring plenum off?

ti_tony · « **Reply #2 on:** September 08, 2012, 08:10:46 AM »

Hi guys, I think he's talking about #11. Just checked mine THANKS. The bottom of the tube is thin and one pin hole threw. Inside Dim of tube, I can get a 9/32 inserted. I'm going to agree with Dave on the epoxy. Probably epoxy a Alum tube in the hole flush with old tube. Maybe someone already had this? On the harness, just alot of clips, its wedged in between the two part intake. Tapping it out would be the best [hose].

http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brand=Devcon&family=Aluminum%20Putty%20%28F%29

keflaman · « **Reply #3 on:** September 08, 2012, 09:08:42 AM »

Quote from: ti_tony;115740

Hi guys, I think he's talking about #11. Just checked mine THANKS. The bottum of the tube is thin and one pin hole threw. Inside Dim of tube, I can get a 9/32 inserted. I'm going to agree with Dave on the epoxy. Probably epoxy a Alum tube in the hole flush with old tube. Maybe someone already had this? On the harness, just alot of clips, its wedged in between the two part intake. Tapping it out would be the best [hose].

http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brand=Devcon&family=Aluminum%20Putty%20%28F%29

X2 on #11. I checked the two heads sitting in my garage and found one in an advanced state of pixie dust that will need attention before installing. The other one is near perfect.

Those nipples look to be pressed in the head. On my first car the nipple disintegrated in my hand when I started to do the MUTI, so I drilled it out, tapped it and installed a bolt.

Ideally, I would use an aluminum plug like this to prevent dissimilar corrosion. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ha/an_plug.html

Alexdc12 · « **Reply #4 on:** September 09, 2012, 02:22:26 AM »

Yea its number 11. Im nott bothered bout deleting all that!

keflaman · « **Reply #5 on:** September 09, 2012, 05:22:04 AM »

After thinking about my post above, I realized I'm making things harder than they have to be. Look at #16 in the link Dave provided: http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BE53&mospid=47480&btnr=11_1504&hg=11&fg=15. Part number 07119919112 is a M10X1 plug and I think that would work for what we need here.

I happen to have one of these plugs...somewhere; it's the drain plug for the E30 318is fuel tank and it's used elsewhere in several different BMW cars and motorcycles.

Dammit. Where did I put it?

Alexdc12 · « **Reply #6 on:** September 09, 2012, 07:48:23 AM »

Plugged it with a m8 bolt and chemical metal. Need to wait for bmw to open to order other parts and put back together to test for leaks

Alexdc12 · « **Reply #7 on:** September 12, 2012, 01:16:13 PM »

Should be done tomorrow. Hoping this solvesanother issue i hav been having. On a cold start car will idle atabout 1100rpm turn itoff when warm an start it again and it will hunt and die if i dont keep the revs up. Drive about 10 metres and its fine!?!? Doesnt sound like its idling at 1100 tho? Think the rev gauge is out because it will rev off the clock? Canu calibrate these??

Alexdc12 · « **Reply #8 on:** September 15, 2012, 04:13:43 AM »

All back together now and seems ok still idling funny though. Should the part inside the icv move freely if touched with a screw driver?

DesktopDave · « **Reply #9 on:** September 15, 2012, 08:30:55 AM »

Glad you got it all back together & on the road again. My M42 has never been a smooth car at idle, but that ICV should vibrate & buzz at idle and the shutter should easily move when persuaded with 9vdc or so.

I don't recall if it should easily move - I'd figure it would but I've never done that. I typically use a non-oil solvent to clean those up. Gasoline/petrol does a fine job, but it's a smelly mess. I'll bet alcohol or mineral spirits would also do a fine job, as well as the usual FI TB cleaner aerosols.

Alexdc12 · « **Reply #10 on:** September 15, 2012, 01:03:56 PM »

It wouldnt move at all i cleaned it some carb cleaner. Only got vacum pipe today so havent reroouted icv yet. So wouldnt be able to check if it was buzzing. Will check tho.

Alexdc12 · « **Reply #11 on:** September 26, 2012, 12:42:19 PM »

Fix is holdingwell so far! Car is starting to idle a little bit better too even tho i havent changed vacuum pipes yet