What's the best/easiest way to replace the steering gluibo (coupler)?

[codyb]

I ordered a new steering gluibo for my 91 318i, hoping it will fix my steering sloppiness.

It looks like my old one is riveted in.

Best way to replace this thing?

[Geoff]

rivets?   the rubber part is held in with 4 nuts n bolts...i'm not seein the rivets..
                   G

[codyb]

rivets?   the rubber part is held in with 4 nuts n bolts...i'm not seein the rivets..
                   G

It's the rubber disk on the steering knuckle right?

Mine is definitely not held in with nuts and bolts It's a 91 318i...

[Geoff]

Kinda weird..they only show one type of coupler on real oem, and that looks like the one on my car, also a 91.   Where are the rivets?
                                                                  Geoff

[Geoff]

OK, i get the dumass award for the day.   I just went out and took a look at mine and what do you know..rivets:eek:     AFAIK,  rivets always pretty much have to be cut off.   probably not the flat side, but the one that sticks up a little and is slightly flared should be cut off flush with a die grinder or similiar,  then the other side can be tapped thru.  You will need to locate nuts and bolts to put the new one in,  like the picture shows.
                                                                      Geoff

[keflaman]

I searched BMWfans using the VIN from my old eurospec car and found an illustration with part numbers to what I believe are the bolts, nuts and wave washers used in lieu of the factory rivits.

If your guibo P/N is 32311153993, I'd say items 9, 10 and 13 are what you want:
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E30/2-doors/Europe/318is-M42/LHD/M/1989/september/browse/steering/steer_col_lower_joint_assembly-3/

Where did you purchase the replacement guibo?

[Marauder42]

Just did this on my wife's '89 325i and found that the steering coupling assembly is different than the one on my '91 318i. The one on the 325i is much larger then the one on our cars. I had to drop the rack in order to remove it. I'm not sure if that would be necessary on ours. I sawed off the rivets with a hacksaw and then pushed out the remainder of the rivets with a 2-jaw puller (worked really nice for the job). Here are some photos for comparison followed by something I posted on another forum earlier today.

'91 318i (topside)


'89 325i (topside)


'91 318i (underside)


'89 325i (underside)


Here's what I posted on R3V earlier today...

Actually, I finally did this job on my wife's stock '89 325i this past weekend using the IE coupler above. Prior to the replacement, the original coupler appeared to be in decent shape with no obvious signs of cracking or deterioration. Even after I removed it from the car it looked ok. However, when looking down on the coupler from the engine bay, you could see the coupler flex when the steering wheel was turned . This explained why the steering wheel would turn a few degrees before the tires would respond. After the replacement, there is zero flex in the coupler so the tires turn in unison with the steering wheel . There was no noticeable increase in vibration in the steering wheel either (keep in mind this was done on a stock suspension). Overall, I'm very happy with the product and the positive difference in steering feel and would recommend this upgrade to anyone needing to change their stock coupler.

Replacement tips (sorry no photos):

1)Although I did the job without removing the steering rack completely, in hind sight, it most likely is easier to just remove it. Either way, rack bolts have to be removed in order to move the rack down and towards the front of the car.
2)You'll need a big ass flat head screwdriver to wedge into the coupling slots. These couplings were a pain in the ass to pull them off while under the car.
3)I used a pair of dikes to cut away the old rubber coupler. This separates the whole assembly into 2 pieces.
4)I sawed off the rivets that held the coupler in place as close to the universal joint as possible. Once sawed off I used a 2 jaw puller to push what remained of the rivet out.
5)When putting the assembly back on the car, I found it easier to slide the couplings on the splined shafts one end at a time. Once each end was on, I then attached the new coupler between the 2 ends and tightened the nuts and bolts using a little lock-tite.

Hope this helps.

[codyb]

Just did this on my wife's '89 325i and found that the steering coupling assembly is different than the one on my '91 318i. The one on the 325i is much larger then the one on our cars. I had to drop the rack in order to remove it. I'm not sure if that would be necessary on ours. I sawed off the rivets with a hacksaw and then pushed out the remainder of the rivets with a 2-jaw puller (worked really nice for the job). Here are some photos for comparison followed by something I posted on another forum earlier today.

'91 318i (topside)


'89 325i (topside)


'91 318i (underside)


'89 325i (underside)


Here's what I posted on R3V earlier today...

Actually, I finally did this job on my wife's stock '89 325i this past weekend using the IE coupler above. Prior to the replacement, the original coupler appeared to be in decent shape with no obvious signs of cracking or deterioration. Even after I removed it from the car it looked ok. However, when looking down on the coupler from the engine bay, you could see the coupler flex when the steering wheel was turned . This explained why the steering wheel would turn a few degrees before the tires would respond. After the replacement, there is zero flex in the coupler so the tires turn in unison with the steering wheel . There was no noticeable increase in vibration in the steering wheel either (keep in mind this was done on a stock suspension). Overall, I'm very happy with the product and the positive difference in steering feel and would recommend this upgrade to anyone needing to change their stock coupler.

Replacement tips (sorry no photos):

1)Although I did the job without removing the steering rack completely, in hind sight, it most likely is easier to just remove it. Either way, rack bolts have to be removed in order to move the rack down and towards the front of the car.
2)You'll need a big ass flat head screwdriver to wedge into the coupling slots. These couplings were a pain in the ass to pull them off while under the car.
3)I used a pair of dikes to cut away the old rubber coupler. This separates the whole assembly into 2 pieces.
4)I sawed off the rivets that held the coupler in place as close to the universal joint as possible. Once sawed off I used a 2 jaw puller to push what remained of the rivet out.
5)When putting the assembly back on the car, I found it easier to slide the couplings on the splined shafts one end at a time. Once each end was on, I then attached the new coupler between the 2 ends and tightened the nuts and bolts using a little lock-tite.

Hope this helps.

I ordered the same one from IE. Are you saying the 325 coupler is larger than the 318? So the new coupler from IE isn't going to work?

[Marauder42]

I ordered the same one from IE. Are you saying the 325 coupler is larger than the 318? So the new coupler from IE isn't going to work?

Unfortunately, I didn't take a photo of the rubber coupler I took out of the 325, but, I believe it was larger. The diagrams RealOEM has for this component are misleading. It shows that both the 318 and 325 use the same coupler assembly when clearly this is not the case with my cars.

On a related note; I was experiencing sloppiness in the steering of my 318 and at first thought the coupler was the culprit. After some research, I read about tightening the large nut on the steering column shaft. The nut felt tight at first but, with a large enough crescent wrench and extra effort, I was able to turn the nut a few times. If you haven't done this yet, now's the time before you take shit apart.

The nut is located on the steering shaft just before it disappears into the foot well. You'll have to remove the knee bolster in order to get access to it. Just grab the steering shaft and shake it; if it rattles, the nut is not tight enough. Good luck.


Nut is just above item #1

[colin86325]

Any coupler difference would most likely be due to an airbag/non-airbag car (vs 318/325 model differneces).

[Marauder42]

I ordered the same one from IE. Are you saying the 325 coupler is larger than the 318? So the new coupler from IE isn't going to work?

Looks like it should work. Someone over on R3V just did this to their 318 without dropping the rack.