Author Topic: Coolant Temp Sensor Part #'s (Read 7738 times)

willworkfore30s · « **on:** June 04, 2012, 11:17:38 AM »

I am going to replace my coolant temp sensor because my gauge started going crazy and shortly after the car started running like crap. The car is not over heating and has been properly bled so it's got to be something to do with the sensors.

I assume I need the sensor that sends signal to the DME. I believe this is the one toward the front of the engine under the intake. If this is wrong please correct me.

Could someone tell me the proper part number for that sensor and where you think is a good place to order one from. I searched realOEM.com but couldn't find it.

Thanks in advance,

Clay

colin86325 · « **Reply #1 on:** June 04, 2012, 05:04:25 PM »

part #6

http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E30/4-doors/USA/318i-M42/browse/engine/cylinder_head_attached_parts/

As for ordering, check out rmeuropean, bluntech, bmaparts, etc.

av8drvr · « **Reply #2 on:** June 05, 2012, 07:48:08 AM »

Just to clarify. The sensor (#8 in the above linked diagram) is for the DME signal and will trigger a CEL when it fails (code 1223). #6 as mentioned is the sender that feeds the gauge, and as far as I know will not effect the running condition of the motor at all. My understanding is that these sensors rarely fail. For a rough running motor I was always suspect vacuum. For a jumpy gauge check the cluster and any grounds first. Best way to rule out the sensor would be a resistance check, I believe the Bentley has the proper readings, if not hit up Desktopdave on here, a treasure trove of info.

willworkfore30s · « **Reply #3 on:** June 05, 2012, 12:25:54 PM »

I hear what you are saying and I am not certain that it isn't a vacuum issue as I did a modified version of the mess under the intake mod and I don't completely trust it. However, when the car is cold and I first crank it, the thing runs fairly smoothly. Then when it gets warmed up its like it stops getting fuel and wants to die

av8drvr · « **Reply #4 on:** June 05, 2012, 01:43:42 PM »

Are you getting a CEL? My symptoms were a flickering CEL, rough idle, and code 1223 (after stomp test). I switched out the CTS (#8) and the issue went away. It returned, however, and I traced my issue to exposed wire (sheathing looked to have been rubbed away) in the lead from the CTS, maybe 3 inches from the connection at the cylinder head. The wire was shorting/arcing and this caused the flickering CEL and crappy idle, I temporarily fixed the isuue by wrapping with electrical tape and all is well for now. Long story short, if you are not getting a CEL I would strongly suspect a vacuum issue that is some how only showing itself when things are gettting warmed up in the engine bay.

willworkfore30s · « **Reply #5 on:** June 06, 2012, 12:02:45 AM »

I do get a flickering CEL. I can't remember what the code was when I did the stomp test but it was for the CTS according to something I found on the net. I tried to test the sensors with my Ohm meter but didn't have any conclusive luck.

What is the process to test them? I think I'm gonna pull off my intake, go through the vacuum system once again, and check the harness for bare wires.

colin86325 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 06, 2012, 08:00:56 AM »

BTW, the part (#6) that I linked is for the temp sender in the instrument cluster only.

willworkfore30s · « **Reply #7 on:** June 11, 2012, 11:46:09 PM »

So I got back in the car today and started trying to figure some more things out. First thing I figured out was that I have been thinking the stomp test was showing a 1223 code when it is really showing a 1224 code. So I did some research and thought that meant my AFM was bad.

I pulled the afm cap off and it's track seemed pretty worn so I tweaked the slider contact loop a bit so it ran in a new track. This helped the cars sputtering issues somewhat but it still had a couple of sputtering and bucking spells a couple times during the mile long test drive. It was definitely better though. I now realize that the 1224 refers to the actual air temp sensor in the AFM so I will check that out when I get back to the car on wednesday. Does anyone know what value this is supposed to read and if 5 and 4 are the right pins to check this with?

My temp needle is still bouncing all over the place every now and then settling down to what I believe to be the correct reading. Today it went from properly functioning to hot in a second and my dad said it sounded like a click up front happened as it did it. Almost like a relay clicking. I checked out the battery cables because of that and because my brand new battery won't stay charged unless I drive the car everyday. I found that my positive battery cable is grounding out. I undid the started and alternator and it is still grounding out. What is the best way to find where it is grounding?

Thanks in advance. I am hoping this grounding issue will help solve some of my electrical woes.