Author Topic: What are the chances? (Read 4136 times)

willworkfore30s · « **on:** April 27, 2012, 01:22:14 PM »

How likely is it that I damaged my head by letting the car overheat once?

I am still not convinced that it did overheat but assuming it did, I was stuck in traffic for about 10 minutes with the gauge on hot before I could pull off and shut it down. Car cranked after 2 minutes, gauge read at the 1/4 mark and I drove it back home fine.

bmwman91 · « **Reply #1 on:** April 27, 2012, 01:27:12 PM »

With aluminum heads, once can be enough to warp them.

If you had the temp gauge all the way in the red and it dropped to the 1/4 mark after only 2 minutes of being off, then it sounds more like you have an air bubble in the head by the temp sender. How is the coolant level? Do you know if the system has been bled at any point recently? Are you running the stock mechanical/clutch fan?

willworkfore30s · « **Reply #2 on:** April 27, 2012, 01:38:00 PM »

Running stock fan clutch.
Coolant level seems to be staying consistant judging by the level when the car is cool

Have tried to bleed the system 3 times in the last 2 months. Once when I installed the motor, once when it started running warmer than normal, and one more time when the last one didn't fix it. I say tried because I am not 100% sure that it worked or that I did it properly.

Wire going to the temp sensor is missing some sheathing and the gauge was jumping around some. I have been hoping that was the issue but I am not sure because the car started stumbling bad at the same time it was saying it was overheated.

Car has been stumbling off an on for a while. I thought it was a vacuum leak but I have checked that and haven't found one yet. Now I am wondering if its a fuel pressure issue because I saw what I thought was a gas leak from the lines going up to the engine.

My plans as soon as I get some free time are to:

-Check and replace those fuel lines.
-See if I can repair the wire to the temp sensor.
-Smoke test the vacuum lines.
-Check thermostat even though I think its working fine because passenger side hose gets hot
-Check Water Pump and Fan Clutch.

But I don't want to put much into it if I have already roached my head.

wazzu70 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 27, 2012, 02:20:31 PM »

You are probably fine. The temp should not drop that fast so it sounds like your gauge might be the real issue.

When you bleed the car point the nose uphill or lift the drivers side front with a jack.

Also make sure to have your heater on.

The M42 can be really tricky to bleed.

willworkfore30s · « **Reply #4 on:** April 27, 2012, 09:49:20 PM »

I have been bleeding it on my drive way which is a fairly steep slop. Its steep enough to pop the clutch in reverse in about 5 ft when the batt is dead.

I am still stumped on this stumbling problem. The motor just starts to struggle to keep running and I can push the pedal to the floor and sometimes it will rev up and come out of it and sometimes it just keeps struggling or dies.

bmwman91 · « **Reply #5 on:** April 27, 2012, 10:39:27 PM »

The random stumbling sounds like it could be a bad ignition coil, or possibly a worn out air flow meter.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #6 on:** April 28, 2012, 09:35:24 AM »

You did a stomp test on the car, right? IIRC it was a bad CTS? Could be a lot of things...bad O2, bad AFM, dead coil, DME, etc. Test the sensors one by one, R&R the bad ones and isolate the problems that way.

I'd definitely replace any fuel hose that even looked suspect. Any cracking, any abrasion, even if it's just old...it's history. The high alcohol content of modern fuel is harsh on older rubber and it's not worth the risk. BMW OEM 8x13 fuel line is expensive but IMHO worth every penny.

But I think you're pretty close on this one. Don't start throwing parts at the car - that gets expensive and frustrating very quickly.

willworkfore30s · « **Reply #7 on:** April 28, 2012, 10:54:52 AM »

Ok, I'll get out the multimeter and do some investigating.

Is it possible my ICV could have something to do with it? I know the ICV has an in and out but does it have to be mounted in the stock configuration to work properly? By this I mean angle. Right now its held at an angle by the hoses, and not really hard mounted anywhere.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #8 on:** April 28, 2012, 01:37:28 PM »

No need to mount the ICV on anything. It'll work if it's clean regardless.

willworkfore30s · « **Reply #9 on:** April 28, 2012, 01:49:34 PM »

Is there an easy way to get to the lines going into the fuel filter to replace them. Mine are dry rotted. But it looks like I might have to drop the tank to get to them.

willworkfore30s · « **Reply #10 on:** April 28, 2012, 03:22:38 PM »

Fuel is no longer leaking.

Temp gauge is bouncing all over the place so I am sure the coolant sensor is bad. I looked at the wire and I was mistaking. It looks fine. I was not able to get a reading for the sensor with my multimeter.

Vacuum system seems to be sealed.

So I guess now I am leaning toward bad ignition coil. Could that cause my symptoms. I can barely even drive the car. It starts and idles good sometimes and bad sometimes. Then I try driving and it almost dies. Like it has no power. Motor shakes violently like its off balance. Maybe not hitting on all cylinders?

Any better way to check the coils other than the traditional pull it and a plug out and turn over the motor and check the arc.

Also advice on how to test our specific air flow meter might help me. I know that I need to check it with the multimeter by blowing into it and seeing if it fluctuates but some more specific directions would help.

I am getting kinda frustrated with this thing and wondering if its about time I take it in for some professional help. But that really needs to be a last resort.

bmwman91 · « **Reply #11 on:** April 28, 2012, 08:57:04 PM »

I have heard that the ground lug on the back of the cluster for the temp sender comes loose sometimes. You might be able to check that fairly easily.

willworkfore30s · « **Reply #12 on:** April 28, 2012, 09:20:10 PM »

Well my stumbling problem is not coils. I was able to borrow some tonight and swap them in. When I described the problem to the person loaning me the coils he said his money was on my fuel filter being clogged.

This makes sense since the car sat for just over a year with a full tank of gas. And the car idles, which it wouldn't do with a bad coil.

bmwman91 · « **Reply #13 on:** April 28, 2012, 10:42:13 PM »

Yeah, the filter could be plugged up. It is cheap & easy to change, so you may as well. I would recommend depressurizing the system first though. Disconnect the fuel pump and start the car & crank it over for a few seconds after it dies.

Disconnecting the filter with the system still pressurized makes a mess and gas squirts all over. Either way, have a dish or pan or something under the filter area. A few ounces of gas will drain out of the hoses when opened.

willworkfore30s · « **Reply #14 on:** April 29, 2012, 09:58:09 PM »

Ordered a new filter. Hopefully the m42 will be running strong in 3-5 business days.

On a better note, I received my title in the mail today. Finally!!! So after much hoopla with the DMV I have saved an 318is that had no title from the crusher. Now I just have to get it running strong