Author Topic: Unable to rev past 3k...  (Read 17187 times)

Avtovaz

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Unable to rev past 3k...
« Reply #15 on: September 26, 2012, 05:47:41 PM »
check you speed sensor on the diff

jtrenary

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« Reply #16 on: October 04, 2012, 03:57:48 PM »
I too hve a 1991 BMW, 318i with the same problem. It is currently at a shop specializing in european cars and they too, cannot find the problem. They suspect a missing crankcase ventilation hose. Does anyone have a vacuum hose diagram for this car? The dealer is no help, Chiltons is no help and Hanes is no help. Help!

axisofjustice

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« Reply #17 on: October 07, 2012, 03:01:32 AM »
Have either of the two of you actually popped in a known good fp to test the theory I've seen solve this issue a few times? Seeing as you all are stumped, why not give it a go?

jtrenary

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« Reply #18 on: October 12, 2012, 11:18:13 AM »
I have a new fuel pump; pressure & flow check per Chilton manual. Also new:
  camshaft sensor
  vacuum hoses (replaced as they were when I purchased car)
  O2 sensor
  fuel filter
  injectors
  spark plugs
  plug wires

Coils check ok and am getting spark on all four.
Exhaust has been checked for blockage.
Replaced ECM with another used one.

Nothing has helped. Still suspect hoses and need an accurate diagram for my 1991 318 I.

Hope you all don't mind my adding my problem. (first time user)

Hunsbergring

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« Reply #19 on: November 02, 2012, 01:01:27 PM »
@Avtovaz (nice handle, btw):  Funny you should mention the speed sensor.  I finally broke down and took the car in to a local German car specialist (whose daughter I dated in High School...) to have him take a crack at it.  He said his diagnostic scan turned up codes for the cam sensor and the speed sensor.  

All he did with the cam sensor was fiddle with connections.  Didn't do anything with the speed sensor.  What would the speed sensor have to do with anything, though?  I didn't figure it would have any effect on engine management.

@axisofjustice:  If this speed sensor business doesn't lead to any insight I'll swap the fp out of the parts car and give it a try!
« Last Edit: November 02, 2012, 01:06:58 PM by Hunsbergring »

DesktopDave

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Unable to rev past 3k...
« Reply #20 on: November 02, 2012, 06:05:43 PM »
Quote from: Hunsbergring;117329
All he did with the cam sensor was fiddle with connections.  Didn't do anything with the speed sensor.  What would the speed sensor have to do with anything, though?  I didn't figure it would have any effect on engine management.

Doesn't the speed sensor input factor into RPM spark cutout for later e30's?  I think the e30 M3 was speed-limited...perhaps the M42 is as well?  I mean LOL on BMW if it is, since I'd think a healthy e30 M42 can't see the far side of 135mph.  I know this is a cockamamie theory (my favorite types) but if that sender isn't playing nice, maybe you have a doubled speedo count and you're getting kicked out halfway?  3k RPM is really close to being half the M42 redline of 6300rpm...

This thread has some great details about DME operation, though they seem very general.  Load and timing are discussed, that's my theory about a potential speed sensor problem.

I noted a limp mode on this thread, but it's only for the later Siemens M52 DME's.
« Last Edit: November 02, 2012, 06:22:02 PM by DesktopDave »
'08 Karmesinrot 128i 6MT
'86 Zinnoberrot 635CSi (M30B32/G265/3.46 torsen LSD)

Sold: '97 Montrealblau 318iS, '91 Brilliantrot 318i, '91 Brilliantrot 318iS

Hunsbergring

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« Reply #21 on: November 06, 2012, 04:33:46 PM »
I swapped out the speed sensor from the parts car.  After putting about 100kms on the car today, it was working fine--no cutout at any point, running reliably to 6500rpm.  Then, just as I was almost home, I ran the engine fully out in 2nd gear, and it sputtered at 6k rpm.  Did a stomp test and it threw no codes.

I also had in in for an emissions test, today, and it failed the acceleration tests for both carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons, but passed on NOx.  Passed everything at idle.

Any thoughts on any of this?

monty23psk

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« Reply #22 on: November 06, 2012, 06:51:00 PM »
Things regarding reving being limited might be the coding plug on the cluster. One, you need to make sure you have the right one for your car and second it might be bad. I dont believe they are expensive to get if not NLA. Also, maybe you can borrow it from a working car so you dont have to order one. Its a long shot but could limit your RPMs.
Alex  88 m5 | 91 318is | 19 Subaru Ascent
BMW Tool Rentals & Fender Roller

DesktopDave

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« Reply #23 on: November 06, 2012, 07:43:30 PM »
I'm glad you're closer.  I never figured the speed sensor could cause troubles like that.

The cam sensor is very important for timing.  The speed sensor retards top speed with spark cut-out.  A failed emissions test could also point to timing.  Odd coincidence, no?  I suspect a relation here.  I'd be tempted to run continuity tests on the DME plug - make sure it's not plugged into the DME when you do that.

You didn't check those coolant and air temp sensors yet, did you?  If the car is getting bad data from those sensors & running open loop it'll cause all sorts of troubles with retarded timing.
'08 Karmesinrot 128i 6MT
'86 Zinnoberrot 635CSi (M30B32/G265/3.46 torsen LSD)

Sold: '97 Montrealblau 318iS, '91 Brilliantrot 318i, '91 Brilliantrot 318iS

Hunsbergring

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« Reply #24 on: November 06, 2012, 09:56:33 PM »
No, Dave, you're right--I forgot about the air temp and coolant sensors.  That'll be job one tomorrow.

Hunsbergring

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« Reply #25 on: November 09, 2012, 06:08:11 PM »
Does anyone have a quick link for DME pin tests?  I've just been through that on my Eta but haven't been able to find a list of tests for an M42.  Figure it'd be easier to do that and test a bunch of sensors all in one go rather than yanking stuff out one at a time...

318iEric

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« Reply #26 on: December 11, 2012, 12:18:23 PM »
Greetings, all-first time posting here, but long time member over on Bimmerforums.  I've been having a similar problem w/ my car (95 318i m/t, 215k and counting) for going on a month now.  I've just been living with it until I find a solution I can bite my teeth into, but I wanted to share my experience because it's a little different from what's being described here and maybe it'll shine some light on what could fix either or both of our problems...

Similar to what Hunsbergring is describing, my car won't rev past a certain RPM, but where my problem seems to differ from Huns' is that mine is seemingly completely temperature related. I.E., from a cold start (on a cold morning, say 30* ambient), it usually will top out at 2500RPM; however, as the engine warms up, the rev cut will gradually rise until it finally will rev all the way to ~6300 when the engine is at normal temperature, and that will remain the case until the engine cools off again.  As w/ Hunsbergring, the "cut" feels very precise and computer-controlled; the engine runs strong all the way up to whatever RPM it cuts out.  Other than this, I've noticed absolutely nothing out of the ordinary as far as performance is concerned.  The stomp test is clean, haven't ever had a CEL, so I'm kinda stumped...

It all started after I decided to replace my front main seal and the gaskets on the oil filter housing.  During that process, I (unfortunately) had to replace my alternator due to one of the studs breaking off my original one.  Other than this, every part I put on the car came off the car, and I've triple checked my handiwork and can find no loose ends there.  The only thing I can knowingly say may have something to do with this is the fact that I noticed while it was removed that my harmonic balancer is slightly out-of-round due to a crack in the rubber at its' base.  I have another balancer out of a junkyard car that appears to be in good shape, but I need to order another crank bolt before I can replace this.  My thought there is perhaps the CPS is getting a bad reading due to the balancer wobbling, but I don't understand how this could be anything temperature-related :confused: Unless it's something as crazy far-fetched as the wiring continuity changing w/ engine compartment temperature, or the rubber on the crank pulley becoming more pliable and it wobbling less once the engine is warm.  But both of those seem to be so far-out in my mind...I can't imagine the tolerances are close enough for either of those theories to have any merit...

As with this thread, people on Bimmerforums suggested O2 sensors, IT sensor, MAF sensor, fuel issues, etc. etc.  But seeing what all Hunsbergring has tried, I'm hesitant to just start throwing money at some pretty expensive sensors.  Granted, I haven't changed anything since this problem started and it's been consistent for over a month now.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

keflaman

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« Reply #27 on: December 12, 2012, 05:36:36 AM »
Has everyone checked the grounding straps from the alternator to the engine block to the chassis as well as battery cables?

318iEric

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« Reply #28 on: December 12, 2012, 07:34:24 AM »
No, although I did have the battery disconnected for a few days while I was replacing the seals I mentioned before...but I don't understand how a problem like what I'm experiencing would have anything to do w/ a ground strap?

keflaman

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« Reply #29 on: December 12, 2012, 11:45:56 PM »
Quote from: 318iEric;118295
No, although I did have the battery disconnected for a few days while I was replacing the seals I mentioned before...but I don't understand how a problem like what I'm experiencing would have anything to do w/ a ground strap?


I recommended checking the ground straps and battery cables because you stated that you replaced your alternator. Those nasty little ground straps are often overlooked and neglected.:p  I don't think the harmonic balancer is your problem unless the crank key has sheared and the balancer has rotated on the crank, but that doesn't explain the temperature dependency effect you are experiencing.

Based on everyone's (understandable) hesitancy to throw money into expensive parts you may not need, my mindset is to stop at this point, go back to basics and start with a good, strong electrical system.

Check all emission hoses for proper connections and cracks as well as the intake boot aft of the AFM. If you've already done that...check 'em again!:D

Make sure you have at least a 1/4 tank of fuel so the fuel pump is being properly cooled and not overheating; check fuel pressure. When is the last time the fuel filter was changed?

It's possible for the cat to be blocked and that can easily be checked with a vacuum gauge, however, I think that were the case the car would have driveability issues throughout the entire RPM range. *Has anyone found that the car can be revved past 3K when it's in neutral, but not in gear?