Author Topic: The Little Motor That Won't Stop Breaking [+PICS]  (Read 8247 times)

bmwman91

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The Little Motor That Won't Stop Breaking [+PICS]
« Reply #15 on: December 14, 2011, 02:40:48 AM »
Huzzah, it would seem that the nasty noise is gone. I am keeping my fingers crossed that it stays gone. I took it to a parking lot once it was warmed up, popped the hood & revved it. The nasty rattle / buzz from the engine at 3100RPM seems to be gone. The timing chain does seem a little noise between 3200RPM and 4000RPM, but I think that that is pretty normal. Timing chains are sort of noisy.

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I replaced the timing chain tensioner piston tonight. As far as I could tell, the existing one was just fine. Maybe my memory is bad, but I seem to recall having to compress them about 15mm when installing them. These two only needed to be pushed up maybe 5mm to get the threads started on the tensioner cap. Is there any chance that someone on here can go pop their tensioner piston out, just enough to see how much of a gap there is between the start of the threads and the head (basically, how much does the tensioner get compressed when installed)? That would really help me.

If for some reason my tensioner piston is not compressing as much as it should be, then that means that there is some slack somewhere in the timing chain assembly. I was just in there, and all guides looked great (less than 60k miles on them). The chain does not stretch all that much, and it also has <60k miles on it. The ONLY thing I can think of is that I was sent the wrong idler sprocket when I replaced the dead one...and that seems SUPER unlikely.

And perhaps this is much ado about nothing. Maybe I am just a lot stronger than I used to be and it is easier for me to push the tensioner piston into place to get it threaded. I have done a lot of rock climbing over the last few years!

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Here's the other thing I did tonight...I added 1 quart of 15W-50 oil. The oil level was just below the lower line on the dipstick. The oil is also REALLY dirty and smelly for some reason. I changed it 4000 miles ago, when I overhauled the motor. I am thinking that all the excess gasket sealer has worked its way into the oil & is gunking it up. If that is the case, it sort of makes sense that I would be getting ugly timing chain noises once the motor warms up. All that crap in my oil probably degrades the viscosity a lot. When it is cold & thick, it has enough viscosity to keep the tensioner piston pressing hard on the rail.

Once the oil warms up, the viscosity breaks down thanks to the crud, and it pisses out of the tensioner too easily. The lubrication system was designed around having fluid of a certain viscosity in there, at a specific pressure. So, you can probably see my line of thought here. Adding some fresh oil might have improved the mixture just enough so that the hot-viscosity is just enough to get things working decently. Perhaps it is time for an oil change since it is really nasty after so few miles.

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Sorry about the lengthy posting & rambling. I am generally one of those "think out loud" types, and trying to explain things to others often helps me to understand them better myself. This "nasty engine noise" issue has been bugging the hell out of me, especially since I spent 40 hours overhauling the front end a few months ago. I just want a car that I am not afraid to drive!
« Last Edit: December 14, 2011, 02:43:28 AM by bmwman91 »

06/05/2011 - 212,354 miles
Visit HERE for a plethora of 318iS stuff and some other randomness.  Would you say I have a, plethora, of pinatas?

DesktopDave

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The Little Motor That Won't Stop Breaking [+PICS]
« Reply #16 on: December 14, 2011, 06:13:21 AM »
That's some definite progress.  I'm happy to hear the good news.  Your continued investment in this car is inspiring.

If you're really interested in what's going on with your oil, I'd recommend sending a sample of it over to Blackstone...IMHO it's a bargain at $25.  Be sure you let them know how much new oil is in there, and the work you've done within the last oil change.  They personalize your report a bit, and you'll get some really good hints about what's right & wrong.  They base their opinion on a spectrographic analysis along with similar mileage averages and a add few comments.  I can send you my last report if you'd like to see typical results.  It's just one piece of the puzzle, but a rigorous analysis like that definitely changed my mind about the low viscosity oil I was running.
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'86 Zinnoberrot 635CSi (M30B32/G265/3.46 torsen LSD)

Sold: '97 Montrealblau 318iS, '91 Brilliantrot 318i, '91 Brilliantrot 318iS

bmwman91

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The Little Motor That Won't Stop Breaking [+PICS]
« Reply #17 on: December 14, 2011, 11:55:32 AM »
Very interesting! Yes, I would love to see your oil report.

I will look them up & see about sending them a sample. I suspect that some of the oil's smelliness (gasoline) is due to the number of short trips that the car has been used for in the last 6 months. My "commute" is a 6 minute bike ride, so the car really only ever gets used for errands and the occasional longer drive to somewhere else.

Could you do me a favor and loosen the 19mm cap that holds the tensioner piston in on your motor? Just loosen it so that the piston pops out, push it in against the rail (but without starting to compress it) and measure the distance from the head to the aluminum washer. I want to know how much M42's are "supposed" to compress the tensioner piston upon installation. Hopefully I am explaining this adequately. Thanks!

06/05/2011 - 212,354 miles
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DesktopDave

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The Little Motor That Won't Stop Breaking [+PICS]
« Reply #18 on: December 14, 2011, 12:30:32 PM »
I popped the piston out.  Seems like about 20mm pushed in but with no tension, so a little less than an inch.  Now I'm wondering if it should be this hard to get back in...
'08 Karmesinrot 128i 6MT
'86 Zinnoberrot 635CSi (M30B32/G265/3.46 torsen LSD)

Sold: '97 Montrealblau 318iS, '91 Brilliantrot 318i, '91 Brilliantrot 318iS

doitover

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The Little Motor That Won't Stop Breaking [+PICS]
« Reply #19 on: December 14, 2011, 02:15:30 PM »
For what my limited car repair experience is worth...

I put a new tensioner in mine a year or two ago. I had read that they were difficult to put in released but I had no trouble at all doing it. I don't recall the distance it had to collapse but am pretty sure it was more than half an inch, less than an inch.

beemer1

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Re: The Little Motor That Won't Stop Breaking [+PICS]
« Reply #20 on: March 25, 2015, 09:21:04 PM »
I've been searching for a nasty oil leak for some time and noticed a tiny hole in my upper timing case  :o  I just removed the valve cover and upper timing case to find the EXACT same thing happen as the original poster fml!  The upper timing chain guide bolt had snapped and the guide spacer had backed out and both bolt and spacer were resting on the upper case, thus creating a hole.  The guide spacer threads are flattened and the threads on the guide where the spacer goes are destroyed as well.  So I tapped the hole for the m6-1.0x45mm bolt that goes into the block...done deal. 

But my question to you gents is...can I, short of buying a new drivers side guide, rethread the spacer from M12x 0.75 to M12x 1.50?  And obviously retap the guide to 1.50 pitch??  Any other ideas?