Author Topic: AC compressor removal, wreaks of refrigerant (Read 3799 times)

M42Technik · « **on:** June 08, 2011, 06:59:43 PM »

Hi all. Longtimenosee.

I'm taking off the AC compressor mounting bracket, which calls for the AC compressor to be, according to the Bentley, "loosened and pushed aside".

My concern is when I did this, the smell of refrigerant was so pungent. There was no visible leaking of refrigerant, just the horrid smell. I'm currently airing out the garage.

I'm hesitant to continue. What is the best course of action here? Should I replace the hoses that lead to the compressor? Just get a big fan and go for it?

And also, how can I keep the compressor in place, so that while the bracket is out, and the lower timing chain cover is coming out, it doesn't start leaking refrigerant all over the place? It'll just be hanging in the air, held on by hoses.

ak96ss · « **Reply #1 on:** June 08, 2011, 10:24:11 PM »

In theory, those hoses shouldn't have leaked when you moved the compressor, so you're likely looking at a purge and refill at the least if you want to keep it. You'll also have to identify what leaked (probably those hoses) and replace that as well. AND, if it is original and hasn't been updated, you may need to convert to R134a, which means replacing at least the accumulator, probably some seals, blah blah blah, unless you can source some R12 somewhere.

When you move the compressor away to access the timing case, hang it off of something rather than letting it hang on the hoses, although at this point it is probably too late for those hoses anyway. I used a coat hanger.

Where you are now is that all of the refrigerant is probably gone, so you can hang it off the hoses or just take it out entirely. See if you can borrow a manifold to test the pressure, but I'd be surprised if there was any left if you smelled it that strongly. Just make sure that you have ventilated the area well before you venture back in and you'll be fine, except for the small hole in the ozone layer with your name on it.

M42Technik · « **Reply #2 on:** June 09, 2011, 06:57:12 PM »

Tackled it today. Did not smell as bad as when I moved it yesterday. I had protective eyewear, gloves and a mask as well. Hung it from a coat hanger and propped some paint cans under it.

Got the damn bracket off. I would have tackled the crankshaft bolt, but I forgot I drained the oil so I can't crank it! Put on the new gasket, put the oilpan back on best I could, and I'll fill it up tomorrow.

Another question, two of the oilpan bolts seem too loose still, yet are in as far as they can go. What happened here?

DesktopDave · « **Reply #3 on:** June 09, 2011, 07:29:02 PM »

Isn't that bracket a PITA? Badly adapted to the car, needs a bracket like the alternator so it can strip the embossed gear teeth off.

If the bolts are loose in the lower pan it sounds like helicoil time. Or just a healthy dose of red locktite.

M42Technik · « **Reply #4 on:** June 11, 2011, 02:06:16 PM »

Okay next (stupid) question.

I'm trying to remove the crankshaft bolt using Brendan Purcell's method. To do this, I have to have oil in the motor, and the spark plugs to have detonation in order for the car to turn over, and thus breaking the bolt loose, correct?

And also, I have done some searching but if there is oil in the spark plug holes, do I have a bigger problem than just a leaky valve cover gasket?

DesktopDave · « **Reply #5 on:** June 11, 2011, 06:59:44 PM »

You mean the starter bump method? I'd definitely have oil in the motor, but the starter does the work. It has enough torque to break that bolt loose with the motor's inertia behind it.

No need for plugs...you don't want the car to start.

I'd figure the only way oil can get into the plug bores is via leaking gaskets or loose bolts. If they're stripped (unfortunately very easy to do) they'd do that.

M42Technik · « **Reply #6 on:** June 13, 2011, 01:31:24 PM »

Quote from: DesktopDave;104509

You mean the starter bump method? I'd definitely have oil in the motor, but the starter does the work. It has enough torque to break that bolt loose with the motor's inertia behind it.

No need for plugs...you don't want the car to start.

I'd figure the only way oil can get into the plug bores is via leaking gaskets or loose bolts. If they're stripped (unfortunately very easy to do) they'd do that.

Okay, one more stupid question, but do the valve cover and upper timing cover have to be on to do the starter bump method? I'm just being cautious again, I don't want to fuck something up.

M42Technik · « **Reply #7 on:** June 13, 2011, 02:13:44 PM »

Well I decided to just go for it.

I got the battery connected and started it with oil in it, no cover on. Turned over, hit brick, went to try it again, and now nothing.

When I turn the key the motor does nothing. I think I may be out of juice. I just want this damn bolt off!!

M42Technik · « **Reply #8 on:** June 23, 2011, 10:12:27 PM »

Used an acetylene torch on it today, and some liquid wrench. For a really long time. Still couldn't get the damn thing off. Bolt in bell housing keeps bending. Gonna get 10 grade steel to put in the bell housing and try again.

Anyone got any other tips? Don't have an impact gun.