Author Topic: electric fan???? (Read 12824 times)

stillmatick · « **Reply #15 on:** June 17, 2011, 03:48:43 PM »

monty,do i keep this piece including the little square box then connect it straight to spal fan??? what color is power and ground??

also what is the easy way to remove front aux fan and how??

gonna tackle this tomorrow.

monty23psk · « **Reply #16 on:** June 17, 2011, 06:20:09 PM »

Is that picture a OEM fan? If so, yes, you keep the box as that is the low speed resistor. That causes the speed to run on low when temp switch on the first mode or when AC is on. You will splice the wires from the new fan to the the pigtail of the old. So everything in red you cut and reuse.

Some people try to remove it via the front and it might be possible but you need to remove all the bumpers and trim. I removed the radiator, loosen condensor to get the fan in and out. Much easier in my opinion and the correct way via manuals.

stillmatick · « **Reply #17 on:** June 18, 2011, 03:28:31 AM »

Quote from: monty23psk;104672

Is that picture a OEM fan? If so, yes, you keep the box as that is the low speed resistor. That causes the speed to run on low when temp switch on the first mode or when AC is on. You will splice the wires from the new fan to the the pigtail of the old. So everything in red you cut and reuse.

Some people try to remove it via the front and it might be possible but you need to remove all the bumpers and trim. I removed the radiator, loosen condensor to get the fan in and out. Much easier in my opinion and the correct way via manuals.

no this is the e30 fan

I probably have to the front way because of drilling in new bracket for 16inch spal fan plus cutting the little bottom bracket off.

stillmatick · « **Reply #18 on:** June 21, 2011, 10:26:52 PM »

the new version behr oem radiator is so much better than the older version.

as for the 16inch spal fan,it fit perfect!!!!! no need to drill at all,but you do have to cut the 3 small bracket.

also does the resistor suppose to get hot???

monty23psk · « **Reply #19 on:** June 21, 2011, 10:44:34 PM »

Yes, the resistor will get hot when current is going through in the low speed.

stillmatick · « **Reply #20 on:** June 22, 2011, 08:45:50 AM »

shit blow cold ass a/c!!!!!!

monty23psk · « **Reply #21 on:** June 22, 2011, 10:27:23 AM »

yup, it helps when condenser is cool. the stock aux fan is ok, but the newer ones like Spal's push lots of air. I only have a 14" one. If I go with s5x swap, I might move up to 16".

92BMW318is · « **Reply #22 on:** June 22, 2011, 02:42:59 PM »

I have a noob question. the first radiator on the engine is an ac radiator? the 2nd on is the engine radiator. or is this wrong.

I would like to take off the first radiator if its just used for Air conditioning. as my air conditioning doesnt work.

monty23psk · « **Reply #23 on:** June 22, 2011, 08:25:41 PM »

that is correct. The radiator closes to the is the radiator, the other, which is smaller and has AC lines going it, is the condensor. Only needed if you have an AC system. You can remove it. Just make sure the system has no gas.

stillmatick · « **Reply #24 on:** June 22, 2011, 09:16:33 PM »

Should i ditch the clutch fan??My aux fan only kick on if the temp needle pass the halfway mark. As of now temp needle just stay blow halfway mark all the time.

monty23psk · « **Reply #25 on:** June 23, 2011, 07:37:43 AM »

Well if you confirm that the fan turns on without the AC on and it works on low and high that way, then you can. I installed a lower temp switch, 80/88 to have it turn on sooner.

stillmatick · « **Reply #26 on:** June 23, 2011, 08:01:17 AM »

Quote from: monty23psk;104775

Well if you confirm that the fan turns on without the AC on and it works on low and high that way, then you can. I installed a lower temp switch, 80/88 to have it turn on sooner.

i have it too,hard to decide because the clutch fan is basically new.

when does your aux fan kick on??

monty23psk · « **Reply #27 on:** June 23, 2011, 12:08:35 PM »

With my car, low speed kicks on before half on the guage. About halfway between half and 3/4 it goes on high. I also replaced the temp guage sender after my rebuild 3 months ago as it looks like my old one was giving a bad reading and caused my engine to run at high temps for a few weeks. Small crack on head becaome of this. I noticed my radiator temp switch had gone bad and it cost me. The only issue I have, which might not be an issue, with gauge is that in stop and go traffic, it stays pretty much at noon and maybe a needle width past but while driving it drops almost closer to 1/4. I might have a stock open tstat. I did check it during the rebuild before installing it as it is only 3 years old.

stillmatick · « **Reply #28 on:** June 24, 2011, 04:23:16 AM »

i c,to tell you the truth monty23psk I have never seen my fan kick on yet,but did jump test the high and low connection which is fine. Also my resistor make funny spark noise like when you connect the jumper cable to another battery,probably a loose resistor connection though.

monty23psk · « **Reply #29 on:** June 24, 2011, 02:20:45 PM »

if you have the 80/88 switch the fan should be on low at least when gauge is halfway. If it turns on with AC then resistor and diode are ok. Maby your new switch is faulty or the wiring is not making good contact with the switch. Lastly if your tstat is not allowing coolant to flow to radiator on that side, the temp switch will never get hot. You can test the switch with water in a boiling pan to make sure it switches depending on water temp.