Author Topic: help with oil pan and bolts (Read 4065 times)

e30work · « **on:** May 24, 2011, 07:00:14 PM »

after getting the car started due to electrical problems i let the car idle and the oil light came on. the cars sounds like a ups delivery truck so i amused it was the lifters getting stuck because the car has been sitting for a long time (over 6 months due to connecting the batter wrong). however after letting it idle for 5- 10 minutes with some revving, the sound and oil light didnt go away. i was going to pull the oil pan anyways to see if there was any loose bolts and this is what i found. let me know what you think i should do.

e30work · « **Reply #1 on:** May 24, 2011, 07:03:34 PM »

it looks like all the bolts are missing, and sealant on the upper oil pan in the last picture? the crazy thing is there are no bolts in the pan!! is it possible the bolts flew up into the crank?

bmwman91 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 24, 2011, 07:49:44 PM »

For some reason, it is somewhat common for those upper pan bolts to fall out / strip. When that happens, the upper pan-to-timing case gasket can implode around the oil pump inlet & suck air. Your oiling system has been running dry, and you should not run the car for another second until you fix this.

I believe that the bolts are M6x18. Figure out if anything is stripped. If so, fix them with helicoils or other repair inserts. Use Loctite when installing the bolts. You'll need new oil pan gaskets.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #3 on:** May 24, 2011, 08:29:45 PM »

+1...I'd just button it back up and hope for the best. The lifters will likely get refilled with oil quickly, but I'd keep an ear out for main bearing damage.

I used loctite red on the ones I could reach. I'd do a new gasket too, the OEM paper ones are pretty good and seem to last.

The PO's mechanic repaired at least one on mine, I could tell because the bolts leave impact marks on the lower pan & oil pickup.

e30work · « **Reply #4 on:** May 24, 2011, 08:55:29 PM »

just got done cleaning the area where the upper pan meets the block and i can see the upper gasket sticking out into the open. very similar to the picture i posted. looks like i wont be able to cheap it out by just replacing the bolts.

so i have two jack stand and one jack, is this possible to fix? if i hold the chassis up with the jackstands can i lift the engine with the jack and get the upper pan out? all i have to do is unbolt the two engine mounts correct? the engine should lift after? or do i have to unbolt anything else?

DesktopDave · « **Reply #5 on:** May 24, 2011, 09:47:10 PM »

I'm not sure about the M42 personally, but I've done this with other motors. You might have to pull the front timing case too...not sure if it interferes. Unbolt the mounts & use something strong (I use scrap lumber) to hold the motor off the subframe. Be careful putting a lot of pressure on the oil pan, it's thin & easy to crack.

A u-joint and a few extensions should do for all those little bolts.

Some BMWs also have the pan bolted to the transmission bellhousing.

bmwman91 · « **Reply #6 on:** May 26, 2011, 12:10:01 PM »

Quote from: DesktopDave;104047

I'm not sure about the M42 personally, but I've done this with other motors. You might have to pull the front timing case too...not sure if it interferes. Unbolt the mounts & use something strong (I use scrap lumber) to hold the motor off the subframe. Be careful putting a lot of pressure on the oil pan, it's thin & easy to crack.

A u-joint and a few extensions should do for all those little bolts.

Some BMWs also have the pan bolted to the transmission bellhousing.

YES! The M42's upper oil pan does have bolts in the bellhousing. You can access them (with some difficulty) through some cut-outs in the front of the bellhousing. So, with some diligence you can remove the upper pan without pulling the transmission.

IIRC the timing case does not need to be removed.

It was suggested to me in another thread to replace all the oil pressure regulation parts since there was some sort of update to them. Supposedly the old parts wear & cause excessive oil pressure. The new plunger is plastic rather than metal or something. I have my timing assembly all taken apart now & will be swapping the plunger, spring, spacer & lock ring. You might as well do that too since you will be in there!

e30work · « **Reply #7 on:** May 26, 2011, 07:40:37 PM »

thanks, it rained yesterday and today after getting under there, i dont think i can do it safely without another jack. will update.

as for the oil regulator, are you talking about parts 5-8 in the link?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF93&mospid=47305&btnr=11_0504&hg=11&fg=30

bmwman91 · « **Reply #8 on:** May 26, 2011, 08:44:17 PM »

Yup, parts 5-8. There was some change made to them.

e30work · « **Reply #9 on:** May 28, 2011, 05:09:36 PM »

transmission to upper oil pan bolts wont come loose, are these reverse threads by any chance? dont want to strip another.

rjcaptsean · « **Reply #10 on:** May 28, 2011, 06:48:45 PM »

None of the bolts holding the oil pan on are left-handed threads. It is possible that the previous owner has used loctite on them however. Maybe he got confused and loctited those instead of the front ones? Ugh, either way, make sure you use a 6 point socket and be careful. You definitely do not want to strip the heads off those as you will need to pull the trans to get to them.

Good Luck!

e30work · « **Reply #11 on:** June 14, 2011, 02:45:36 AM »

finished putting everything back together. for reference, it is possible to replace both gaskets with one floor jack and two jack stands. just unbolt both engine mounts and the ring holder for the canister tank (it will provide more room to jack up the engine). after getting it on stands, lift the engine from the transmission. you should be able to lift it about 6 inches, just enough to allow you to remove and install the upper oil pan with ease. also remember to replace the oil regulator. i torqued everything down to 10 ft. and remember to replace the oil drain plug before you fill up... thanks for all the help.