Author Topic: Keflaman (Read 34661 times)

keflaman · « **Reply #60 on:** January 11, 2013, 08:01:06 PM »

Quote from: DirtyD;116982

This is an awesome thread! I am jealous of your suspension set up...
I have always wondered about cruise control on these cars. after some decent driving, let me know how it holds up!

As I mentioned in the cruise control thread, I'm quite happy with the system. Initially it had some surging and sometimes rather abrupt operation, but I've noticed it has smoothed out significantly.

Overall, I'm happy with the system and would recommend installation to those considering it.

keflaman · « **Reply #61 on:** January 11, 2013, 08:35:43 PM »

After participating in a couple of threads brainstorming for answers to driveability problems, I discovered upon performing a stomp test on my car the fault code 1271 = Ignition coil 1 (A break or short in the Ignition Final Stage wiring has occurred. Check primary ignition signal pattern).

As I recall this will probably be the result of the coil driver in the DME being toast, so this would be a good time to install the COP kit sitting on the shelf and do some troubleshooting.

First thing to do is install the COP kit and clear the stored codes. For this I have an old Snap-On MT2500 aka "The Brick". After resetting the codes I started the car up and immediately saw stored code "55" = ignition coil.

So it wasn't the coil.

Next, grab a spare DME, swap it out, clear the codes, yadda, yadda, yadda.

Bingo! No codes.

Right. With that done I'm still stuck with a slightly lumpy idle. Although I've done the MUTI (Mess Under The Intake) mod, I didn't change the original intake to throttle body boot because it didn't exhibit any cracks. Well, there's a brand new one sitting on the shelf and it's quite a bit more pliable than the one currently installed, so, what the hey. Guess I'll throw it on.

Hey!! The idle is significantly smoother!:eek:

Now we're on a roll! What else do I have sitting on the shelf waiting for installation that might have to do with driveability?

Reviewing the stack of maintenance receipts that came with my car would suggest that it�s still running with the original O2 sensor. Looking at it supports that assumption�

I spent an inordinate amount of time helping to replace an O2 sensor on a friend�s E34 the day before, so, pardon my language, but I�m not going to spend a lot of time dicking around with this�

I know the sensor threaded section is fused to the exhaust bung, so there�s no need for a lot of finesse. If all else fails my little BFH awaits its turn�

Luckily, that wasn�t needed�

The ceramic internals sure dull a brand new blade quickly�

Time to clean up what�s there in preparation for the next step�

My intent is to drill several small holes in the sensor threads to weaken the area and then knock out it out in sections. A new drill bit operated at the proper speed yields good results. I like long, skinny, piggy tails�

Whoops. I broke the bit inside the hole located at the two o�clock position. Guess we�ll stop here and have a go at it�

Not altogether pretty, but brute force wins over and I�m on my way�

Here�s the O2 sensor in its dissected form�

Hello, what do we have here?

I search the M42Club forum and realize the part number I bought based on an older thread has been edited with the correct part number. Drat it all. Not to be defeated at this point, I quickly cannibalize, cut, crimp and heat shrink the correct connector onto my new sensor.

The screen on the Snap-On MT2500 �brick� shows voltage and heat to and from the sensor. The idle has smoothed out nicely and a test drive revealed an appreciable improvement in responsiveness. Upon my return I scanned the DME again and there are no stored codes.

Life is good.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #62 on:** January 11, 2013, 09:11:59 PM »

Aren't you the busy one last month or so? Knocking out those projects one by one has to feel good.

It's good to see you're using the proper tools for delicate work on a BMW...drills, band saw and a sledge...

keflaman · « **Reply #63 on:** January 12, 2013, 06:27:18 AM »

Quote from: DesktopDave;119162

Aren't you the busy one last month or so? Knocking out those projects one by one has to feel good.

It's good to see you're using the proper tools for delicate work on a BMW...drills, band saw and a sledge...

You should see me solder micro-miniature components onto circuit boards with a butane torch.:eek:

romkasponka · « **Reply #64 on:** January 12, 2013, 08:28:39 AM »

For me pipe wrench works all the time to remove such O2 sensors. It would be good to clean thread with tap prior new instalation, and new one should be tightened few Nm only because to prevent what ceramic will crack inside O2 sensor.

keflaman · « **Reply #65 on:** January 12, 2013, 02:30:11 PM »

Quote from: romkasponka;119172

For me pipe wrench works all the time to remove such O2 sensors. It would be good to clean thread with tap prior new instalation, and new one should be tightened few Nm only because to prevent what ceramic will crack inside O2 sensor.

All good advice and I'll try a pipe wrench the next time one rounds out on me.

I bought an 18/14mm thread chaser for O2/sparkplug holes before I started on this repair, but a complete set of thread chasers is next on my "tools to buy" list.

keflaman · « **Reply #66 on:** January 28, 2013, 05:18:04 AM »

Finally got around to installing the Sylvania H5006 low beam headlights I bought for my other car when I lived in Italy...that was around 2008? (My favorite animal is the three-toed tree sloth). I hardly ever drove in the dark, but I recently started working again (yay!!) and leaving the house at 0630 brought poor lighting to the forefront of my maintenance to-do list. Can't wait to see the improvement; the right side already had the Sylvania and the left side was either a Phillips or General Electric and was noticeably dimmer.

I noticed my coolant level was low...again. I've been tracking down a leak and after finding a couple consisting of loose clamps it now appears to come down to the plastic coolant pipe. I could have sworn I installed a new one when I threw this last engine in. Maybe not.

Either way, I have a new pipe and replacement hose that will be swapped next.

Later on I'll post some initial numbers regarding MPG calculations and such from the 13 button OBC install.

keflaman · « **Reply #67 on:** March 02, 2013, 08:27:38 AM »

With just a few fill-ups after installing my 13-button OBC, it appears that the MPG calculator is consistently 2.5-3.0MPG lower than actual fuel consumption. I don't consider that too bad especially since I don't have the correct coding chip for the OBC. Eventually I plan to purchase the correct chip, but in the meantime I'm happy to have done away with the original 6-button unit and it's bleeding LCD screen. AND...there's always something to be said about the cool factor:cool:.

The real reason for posting today is to document my semi-shadetree main journal inspection and polishing project. Over the past two years I have accumulated a small collection of internal parts for my M42 rebuild as well as parts to build an M/S50B30 for my 318is project car.

From left to right we have crankshafts for M42 (X 2), M54, and S50.

First step is to check runout. According to the TIS, we support the crank on the first and last main journals and measure at the middle one.

One of the six cylinder cranks is placed on the fixture and we're set up to measure the number four journal...

Runout specs for M42 are 0.15mm (0.0059"); 0.20mm (0.0079") for the six cylinders. Of the four crankshafts I measured, this was the most runout I saw...0.0635mm (0.0025")

...

After confirming runout I prepared the cranks for non-destructive testing and performed a Magnaflux inspection. Unfortunately, the S50 crankshaft did not pass...:eek:

And the second crack...:mad:

I had been debating whether to use this crank for a 2.9 hi-comp M50, or to build an actual S50 with the short block this crank came out of. With the decision made for me, I can now build the S50 lamp I always dreamed about, but could never afford.:p

Right. :rolleyes:

M42 crankshaft set up on the lathe to polish the main journals...

Nothing fancy. I used 600 wet/dry cut into strips 3/8" X 11" and lubricated with air tool oil. Honestly, none of the cranks really needed polishing, but since I was offered use of the lathe, I didn't see any sense in not taking advantage of it.

Next week's project: Checking connecting rod twist and convergence.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #68 on:** March 04, 2013, 11:04:48 AM »

That looks like fun. Is it a local machine shop, technical school, something like that?

Sorry about the S50 crank. Good think you found out early...that could have gotten really ugly.

keflaman · « **Reply #69 on:** October 11, 2013, 04:52:31 PM »

I had intentions of doing a 24V install to the shell of a parts car I had stripped, but other garage projects were taking priority. When I was finally seeing daylight at the end of the tunnel, I started dreading the amount of work it was going to take to put the shell together. That's when this thread appeared: http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=17908.0

There aren't many E30 318is' that pop up for sale in these here parts, so I thought it might be worth a look...the fact it was a slick top certainly made it all the more tempting. $:-\$

Long story short...

Here's the worst of the body damage...a relatively soft hit by an inattentive SUV driver. The shell I spoke of earlier is a Diamond Swartz with all good sheet metal and plastics...

The tires have less than 5K miles on them and the wheels are in really good shape.

I'm going to try and save the fender simply because all the VIN numbers are present and there are no indication of previous repairs anywhere else on the car. The front valance is a little distorted and missing the lip. The fog lights were in the trunk, but not in the best of shape; I'm going to be installing fog deletes...

The A/C was converted to R-134, and along with a new radiator, the PO had new hoses, thermostat and t'stat housing installed. There was a K&N sticker on the airbox, but installed was an old, dirty OEM filter and a hand full of cherry pits. The MUTI was done recently, the TB boot was nice and pliable, and there was even a new fuse box cover!

Moving on to the interior...a Kenwood head unit with iPod adapter (Bonus: OEM radio WITH OEM connectors was stowed away in the trunk), analog clock (not hooked up), change tray, and leather wrapped OEM airbag wheel with matching parking brake handle and boot. Extra, extra bonus: Leather shift boot with ///M shift knob wrapped in...leather...and...a SSK as well.

The headliner has to be one of the nicest, cleanest ones I've ever seen.

Looks funny without a sunroof crank handle, huh?

The seats are in O-K condition and probably look better in pictures than in real life. I've seen worse, but I won't be keeping them as I have a near perfect set of black perforated covers to replace them.

The back seat top is split on both sides as shown here. Again, no problem. I have a damned near perfect black leather seat to throw in there. Except, I want a black perforated seat to match my fronts...hint, hint.

Like the change tray and cocoa mats, another period correct "option" installed is an OEM dead pedal. I forgot to take a picture of that...

Moving along to the trunk, we have a complete tool set. I had an extra 8/10mm wrench to throw in there, hence the slightly different look...

The liners were in excellent condition, as is the fairly new battery. Standing water in the left, rear quarter panel indicates new taillight seals are required and if that doesn't fix it, we'll continue with the usual suspects. (I had an extra antenna grommet and installed that immediately...unfortunately, we still have water intrusion).

Also stuffed in a bag of parts in the trunk was...

? I was pressed for time and didn't get a chance to see if the DME had any nice little surprises stashed away in there.

Just like the seller suspected, the fuel pump was DOA. I threw in an extra one I had on the shelf and she started right up!

I took it for a short spin and was quite happy with the total product. It sounds quite good as well...the seller didn't mention until I came to pick it up that it had a Super Sprint exhaust.

With the asking price the seller offered to throw in new shocks, control arms and hardware. Since it was all OEM and I already have a built suspension with too many other parts laying around to trip over, I passed on those and dickered the price down a little. Overall, I'm quite pleased and happy, happy, happy.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #70 on:** October 11, 2013, 09:04:43 PM »

That is an awesome deal! Your list of little treasures just keeps getting longer...color me green with envy.

Thanks for sharing.

timothymcn · « **Reply #71 on:** October 11, 2013, 09:40:00 PM »

Neat stuff. Any pictures of the dead pedal? I've seen Alpina and hartge dead pedals, but I didn't know there was an OEM besides the "built-in" one.

keflaman · « **Reply #72 on:** October 12, 2013, 07:38:31 AM »

Quote from: timothymcn on October 11, 2013, 09:40:00 PM

Neat stuff. Any pictures of the dead pedal? I've seen Alpina and hartge dead pedals, but I didn't know there was an OEM besides the "built-in" one.

Me either. I'm heading home today and will get a picture in the next day or so.

keflaman · « **Reply #73 on:** October 18, 2013, 10:04:27 AM »

Not the greatest pictures in the world, but here's what the dead pedal looks like. There's another attachment point under the speaker cover. The second picture shows the '///M" logo.

keflaman · « **Reply #74 on:** October 18, 2013, 10:06:07 AM »

OBTW, I found a unicorn in my mailbox...

Author Topic: Keflaman (Read 34661 times)

keflaman

Back In The Family

keflaman

Back In The Family

DesktopDave

Back In The Family

keflaman

Back In The Family

romkasponka

Back In The Family

keflaman

Back In The Family

keflaman

Back In The Family

keflaman

A Cranky Day

DesktopDave

Back In The Family

keflaman

A Diamond (Swartz) In The Rough

DesktopDave

Re: Keflaman

timothymcn

Re: Keflaman

keflaman

Keflaman

keflaman

Keflaman

keflaman

Keflaman