Ok guys, this is
IN PROGRESS!So do not rip on it too hard. I already have a few hours invested in this. If you see something that should be here, let me know.
If I have not written that section do not comment on it!Otherwise this will get rediculous in a hurry.
Once I get most of each section down, I will welcome additional information but until then, please do not mention it as I may already have it planned to be included.
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BMW E30 M42 (318I, 318IC, 318IS) FAQ (pertains mostly to 318IS)
Table Of ContentsIntro
---------- A note about sites and the car.
Buying an M42 E30 car.
---------- Which model to buy.
---------- What to look for when shopping (Going Shopping!)
---------- Where to look and how much is too much.
---------- How much is too much.
---------- . . . My Advice.
To be added
Section ------------ History of the car and engine
Section ----------- Member buying experiences.
Section ---------- BMW Scheduled Maintenance
Section ---------- M42Club maintenance recommendations
Section ---------- Care for your car (cleaning, detailing, oil, etc...)
Section ---------- Mods – What works and what does not.
Section ---------- Helpful websites
Section ---------- Essential tools
Re-organize!
Section1A note about sites and the car.
Before we begin, let me say a few things about the car. These are not drag racers, but they do scoot along faster than the numbers show (due to a gearing quirk). These cars are what are known as momentum cars, they carry their speed rather than accelerate quickly. No need to accelerate if you never slow down. Given modern tires, these cars will keep up in the corners with many modern sports cars, even with stock suspension and tire sizes. They do all of this without a harsh ride, any wonder why they are a collector car, and considered one of the best BMW’s ever made?
Which brings up the next thing, these cars are not much fun or fast if you drive them like a 325 or a V8 powered car. They need to be driven like you stole it, they are not much fun below 3500rpm. Above that, they are a blast. Many owners recommend taking up to redline regularly as not only does the car and engine like it, but so does the owner. I am one of them.
Another thing is that many websites will claim these cars are slow, not mod-able, no different than the normal 318i, and on and on. They will also try to tell you how you should mod it, what engine to put into it, and much more. Not to blow our own horn, but this site has done A LOT to dispel a lot of rumors. The people on this site started out just like you and had to learn this stuff the hard way, and sort the truth from fact. Truth is, most other sites are 325 centric and really do not know jack about our cars.
Most of what you will find on this site is based on lots of research or actual member feedback and problems experienced. We pride ourselves on having good and accurate info.
If you have a question, Ask.
Section 2Which model.
If you want a convertible, your choice is pretty simple. If you want a 4 door, again, simple. If you want a 2 door, your choices are few, but at least you have one.
If you are interested in resale value, the IC and IS are the only way to go. They are priced higher are increasing faster (yes, going up in price) and are more sought after (for good reason). For this alone, I recommend the IS if you plan to just enjoy it. If you plan an engine swap, do an I model. IS models are actually kind of rare. It is speculated that they are nearly as rare as the M3. This is possible when you consider these were the cheaper model in the BMW line and were billed as the poor Man’s M3 and were so much fun to drive hard, not to mention more likely to be passed down to kids.
The IS does have some benefits over the I models. Particularly in the seating. The IS has the Sport seats. Many claim they are Recarros, it is possible. It also comes with the BBS wheels, and a few other things. Mostly small. In some ways it is more stripped own and in other ways, it is nicer. I cannot go into much more detail though as information is iffy in this are. And often arguments start over what has what. If you can afford it, buy the IS, in the end, it is the better car.
Section 3What to look for when shopping (Going Shopping!)
First off, bring a buddy who knows cars, preferably one who knows BMW’s. Better yet, one who knows the 318.
Many people will recommend a pre-purchase inspection, available at the dealer and costs about $200. Not a bad idea at all, and will at least give you some sense of security, but do yourself a favor and try to find a dealer that as someone who knows the e30. You will get more for your money. The reason I say this as I have heard of some VERY bad experiences with dealerships regarding e30’s. Remember these cars are getting up there in age, and many of the mechanics who worked on them in their heyday are on the road to retirement.
And remember, inspect the car during the day, bring a flashlight. As well as a mirror. Night is a bad time. Of course do a CarFax as well before you leave (just do not count on it.). Also see if the owner has any records for the car. The more the better. Even if it is just his scribbles detailing what he has done or had done and when. Anything gives you information about the car and how it was treated. As for as the scribbles go, while a receipt is great, a note that something was done is at least helpful. A note is better than nothing.
You will noticed a pattern here… As much as you are looking for bad things, you are also looking for a bad owner. On these cars a bad owner can be one of the worst things for the car. Finding a out things about the owner, will very quickly tell you how good or bad the car was cared for.
Anything you find, expensive or not, can be used to talk the owner down. There is very little on these cars that cannot be done at home, with some simple tools, the internet, and a few questions.
While performing the following pump the owner for information. Ask how long he has owned it, how many miles it has, how many he put on it, maintenance he has done, mileage he has been getting, anything. Even though you will check the mileage, ask. Same with other things. Reason is, if things do not jive, you know something is up, plus, you learn more about the car and owner. You may be surprised what you learn from them spilling their guts. You may find they treated and know the car well, or you may find they are trying to sell you a lemon.
First off the easy stuff. DO NOT START THE CAR YET!Before going to see the car, ask if the owner can ensure the car is cold when you arrive. You do not want it to have been started that day if possible. We will get to this soon enough.
Do a good walk/look around the car, look for odd gaps in the body and paint tints, look at it from different angles as well. These can be a hint of serious damage. Luckily these were pretty strong cars. Expect faded and damaged emblems and possibly trim. Trim is easy to polish up, emblems are cheap to replace (something I highly recommend to improve its looks quickly).
How are the tires and wheels? Look at the backside of the rims, Any big dents will most likely mean a bent rim. Dents on the outside are usually not an issue. Yes you read it correct. Worn rear tires can be a sign they have driven it badly. Oddly worn tires may mean a bad alignment or a twisted chassis. All 4 tires should look similar and be the same make and model. Preferably not cheap Wall Mart tires either. Would you put crap tires on an M3? I am not saying expect a set of $600 tires, but at least a brand name, preferably of medium quality is not asking too much. You can get a full set of Yokohamas and similar for under $300. There is no excuse for putting a set of on-sale Wall Mart tires on this car.
Do not start the car, look under the car and take note of any spots on the ground. Look for leaks from the car before you start. Using your light and mirror, take a look around the bottom for leaks. Pay attention around the gas tank (the seam between upper and lower halves, it tends to rust and seep, lots of fun to replace. Prices range from $140 shipped to well over $500, these are BITCH to replace). Also check around the trans, rear end and engine. Another big leakage point is the power steering rack. An easy, but expensive fix. Usually they leak because someone used power steering fluid rather than ATF trans fluid though at this age, it can just be wear related. Stop leak may fix it for a short time. Ultimately, the only true fix is a new rack, look around, they range from around $200 to $550. It can be changed in about 3 hours by 2 people with pretty common tools.
Check the oil pan. These sit VERY low, and many have been busted over the years, this is especially problematic on lowered cars. A new pan could indicate it has been damaged or smashed. Smashed means it was run dry. Not a death sentence, but something to ask about.
Take something hard, like a wrench and tap the bottom. Listen for secondary rattles. You may be able to tell if any bolts are laying in the pan. This is a common problem on M42’s and while not cause for immediate alarm should be investigated once you own the car. Regardless, you should pull the lower pan once you have the car home. This is discussed further in M42club Maintenance Recommendations.
Pop the hood and check the engine oil, does it look like it was changed today or yesterday? If so, why? Changing the oil when selling a car is not necessarily a bad thing or even unusual, but it is usually not done that morning or the day before. Take note of its color. Pop the oil cap off and look into the valve cover, how does it look? Run your finger around the inside (top) of the valve cover, is it caked with grime? If it is loaded with grime the engine is likely a ticking time bomb.
If the car is automatic, check it’s fluid as well. Take note of color and small. For the daring, get a touch of the oil on your finger and touch it to your tongue. Just touch it, you do not have to swallow or get a swig. If it smells tastes, or looks like paint varnish the trans is toast (note changing fluid will NOT fix it, in fact, changing it once it is burned can actually lead to immediate failure).
How does the engine bay look, clean? A clean engine, even what looks like an attempt can give you information. Looking factory (ignore the orange/greenish stuff, that is Cosmoline and was a factory protective coating) is what you want. Looking like it has been worked on can be a sign that the engine has had a problem. This can be good and bad, ask the owner what they know. Good because it was maintained, bad because it may have been serious, though it would appear to be fixed now. If it is dirty as hell, then it has had problems and was probably not dealt with by anyone with any skill or care for the car. This is what you want to watch out for. A problem is one thing, lack of any care is what is scary.
Another thing to check, is the fuse box. Are there any or a lot missing? Some are not needed, but if lots are missing, or they are wired codes pennies, etc, all show not only problems, but a careless owner.
Look for generally bad stuff, leaks, bad wire wrap, exposed wires, worn/cracked hoses, belts, etc…
Check the radiator core support (where the hood attaches) as well as look under the windshield washer fluid reservoir and in the same place on the other side. If the car has been hit from the front, it will likely show it here. Look up into the fender wells as well (rear too).
InsideObviously look at carpets, seats, dash (common for cracks, look from outside in as well).
On the floor just in front of the rear seat, where the carpet goes from horizontal to vertical is a seam, pull the bottom carpet up and look underneath. Look for water, or rust or…. Water here can be several things, the most likely a plugged drain hole in the firewall (just below the cowl vents). Small the water, if it is clean, it is probably the cowl vent drain hole., if it smells of radiator fluid (coolant) then you have a problem, namely a bad water heater. These cars had a problem with this when they were new. You may be able to get it covered under a BMW replacement plan as they had a recall for it, but do not count on it.
Turn on the key (do not start yet!)and check for bad dash lights. Did the SRS (airbag) light come on above, did any lights come on above? If not, it may be disconnected to hide a non-working airbag system (common). A service light could mean they did an oil change themselves and did not reset it, or it could be more serious. Ask the owner for details. Hop out and check around the car for working lights and signals.
Do all of the switches, lights, door locks and such work? If not, does the owner know why or have an explanation? Does the stereo need the key code punched in every time you turn the key on and off? If so, why (actually it is because it was wired wrong by someone)? Why was it re-wired and not by a professional). Did the antennae go up, is it a factory antennae? Factory stereo? If not, ask why.
Do the seat functions work? How do the pedals and shifter feel? Is the rear view mirror in good shape and tight? Some are faded, cracked or the mount has gone bad. The mount is cheap, but a little work, the mirror is EXPENSIVE(!) new.
If the steering wheel has been changed, this may explain the SRS light, however, keep in mind, your insurance company should know it has been disconnected or removed as it could void your warranty in the event of an accident. Removing it or selling a car with it removed can be illegal in your state. On the other hand, many people do not like the idea of a 15 year old airbag hitting them. It is on you if you buy it.
Check inside the trunk. Is the tool kit complete, most are not. What is the spare tire like, is the accessories there: jack, tire iron, tow hook, hub cap remover. What is the trunk’s condition?
Start the engine.First thing to do is listen for lifter click. This is not truly a big problem, but bothers some people. It has not been shown to be a sign of impending doom. Many cars tick like this constantly and for years and years. It is very common on early Miata’s so do not freak out. I am not saying do not look into it, just not to panick. A large portion of M42’s have this problem regardless of what the owners try to do to fix it..
Listen for a rattle. That is the timing chain and indicates the need for at least a tensioner. Possibly more. This is covered more in depth in the M42club Recommended Maintenance.
Squeals and other noises could also mean trouble. A squealing power steering pump could mean an expensive repair (pump, rack, and alignment).
Does the engine idle ok, sound funny, smoke out the back, spray oil? Check for common stuff.
Inside the car, turn on the A/C, then check the heater, try all of the fan settings, it is common for only high to work. This is a $30 part, just sort of a hassle to get to. Check the tack and look for anything odd like overheating. Some of these cars are slow to warm up. This is not a cause for concern.
Allow the car to reach operating temperature.
Go for a drive.How does the car feel?
Below 3500 it should feel like an econo-car.
Above that it should feel “peppy”.
Wind that sucker out. If the owner freaks, I would wonder how he drove the car himself. These motors long to be wound out. It is obvious as soon as you do so.
How are the brakes, suspension, steering? Are there any odd random noises? Squeaks, rattles, etc… How is the ride? There is a lot of rubber to wear out in these suspensions,. Most is easy to fix. No real worries there unless it is scary to drive. A FULL suspension rebuild and upgrade can get expensive though.
Wind noise?
These were luxury cars and were expected to be decent in regards to wind noise. If you get a lot, something is tweaked, someplace.
Try a panic stop on a back road from 30mph or so (warn the owner first!). These cars had some of the best brakes and ABS for their time. Make sure you engage the ABS when you do this.
When you return back, turn the car off. Did it diesel (chugging and sputtering after you turned it off?
Start the car again.
Did it start easily or did it have a hard time?
Once again, get out and check the oil. Is it a different color now? If it is black when it was clean before, this can be a sign of a lot of dirt inside the motor due to a lack of oil changes, blow by, many things. Not a death sentence, just a possibility they are hiding something. Probably a ticking lifter.
Check the trans again if it is an auto. They may have changed fluids to hide a burned trans.
Section 4How much is too much.
This is a question asked on a regular basis. First thing is to look up current values. Kelly Blue Book is often quoted by dealers, which there is nothing wrong with that, but understand what you are looking at. Blue Book is used by dealers to bid people down on their trade–ins. You can use it to bid a seller down as well. However, it is NOT an indication of what people are paying for their cars. Edmunds is a much better indicator.
http://www.edmunds.com/http://www.kbb.com/Now, before you go thinking this is what you should or expect to pay. This is due to several factors. The first is that books do not keep up well with collector cars (318IS is at least). Yes, these are collector cars. E30’s in the last few years have become one of the latest collector cars and have actually begun to rise in value. Then there is the fact that it has a healthy entheusiast following. This does not mean much in many cases as Miatas are still cheap, but in our case it does. If you find an entheusiast, expect to pay more, but you will likely get a better car. Another thing is documentation, a documented car is certainly worth more, especially a BMW.
If you think a lot of this is B.S., in the Midwest, dealers are willing to pay the private party costs without even seeing the car in some cases. Why? Because in certain places the cars on a dealer lot can fetch several grand over what the book says is dealer costs. An e30 that has a Blue Book value of $3500 can fetch $5000 or $5500 on some dealer lots, so paying $3500 or a bit less, is still worth it to them. I had a 535i snatched right out from under me this way while shopping for my car.
Now, some will say paying $5000 for an e30 is high, some will say it is not. Honestly, it depends on where you are. I know certain parts of the country $5000 will barely get you a driveable IS, not a nice one. This is why you will hear of guys in the Midwest saying $5k for a decent e30IS is not bad, but someone in Denver will laugh and tell you they just paid $2500 and got a near pristine model.
Californians will occasionally complain, but they actually have it about the easiest, they have the largest collection of them, though prices have risen recently, They have he cleanest cars and largest selection so keeping an eye out and not buying the first you see can net you a very nice model for a good price.
So lets go down the list… First the easy one,
318i. Basically, the cheaper the better (Current owners, please take no offense at this). These were the cheapest e30 and were treated about the worst. Book values are fine for these. I have seen ok and driveable for under $1000 in even the highest areas. Many 318IS owners buy them for parts cars.
Cabriolets… These are a tough one as I do not have a lot of experience with these, so you will have to really do some research, hopefully someone will chime in with better details.
318IS My specialty… Denver, Atlanta, and So. Cal should be able to find a VERY nice one for under $5000 if you put the word out and look. New York, expect a bit more. Midewest (Chicago, St. Louis, etc..) Expect to pay the most. You honestly may want to hit up these other places. If you want something clean, not perfect, expect around $5k. Crazy? Yup, but that is what they are asking, and often getting.
My advice, ignore what all I just said regarding all of them. Scratching your head yet? I did when I went to buy mine.
So, use the book values, what I said above, common sense, and your brain (NOT YOUR HEART) guide you. If you feel you got a good car for the money, you got a good car for your money. Being that these are going up in value, and collector cars in transition, prices are all over the place. In a few years, the price you paid, will be the average people are paying and you will have a nice example worth much more.
Just do not buy an e30 with it being an investment. They are not going up that fast. A couple hundred per year so far is about all. You will spend more than that on maintenance most likely.
One thing though, no matter what, all thoughts of how much you paid will likely go out the window every time you go for a drive. So buy the car you think is most worth your money and pay what is needed. Ignore those who say they paid X (lowball amount) many of them bought their cars a few years ago when they were cheaper, some shopped for months or more, and others either knew where to find a deal, or found a sucker, and of course a few just got lucky.
So where to look.The easiest is your friends, especially those already with an e30. They often know of a few others in the area either for sale, or not (you may be able to buy even if they are not looking to sell). They also may know the true condition of the car, the owner, and more. This is by far one of the best ways to find one.
Another easy one is
Auto Trader.
http://www.autotrader.com/This is good and bad. Good because you can search very precise and in your area. The problem is most cars on there are in worse shape than claimed, and typically priced $1000 more than they should be based on the condition claimed. If you do check there, you may need to search a wide area, and watch it like a hawk. Anything good is gone within a day or 2. So checking weekly is not going to work.
A good place though, is the
newspaper.
Yup. Terrible place to sell a car, as few really look for cars there. Trust me, when I sold my Honda in California, I put it in the paper, after 3 weeks of not a single call, I dropped the price a tiny bit and stuck it on Auto trader. It was old the next day, and calls continued for weeks. Sop if you are selling, use Auto Trader, if you are buying, watch the papers.
Another good spot is
Craigslist.
http://www.craigslist.org/You can find some really good deals, but the problem is selection may not be great. Not everyone seems to know of it. The problem is that it is starting to really garner attention and I have begun seeing people looking to take advantage of people thinking they will get a good deal there.
Ebay… Americas garage sale.
http://www.ebay.com/Unfortunately, just like a garage sale, you may get ripped off. Ripping people off on Ebay is almost as much a job as anything else these days. Watch yourself. I have seen people put a bid on a vehicle, win, then go to see it, only to find they were “creative” with camera angles and conveniently leave out things like fenders bashed in, broken windows, torn seats, etc… What looks good in pictures is not always that good in person. Of course you can walk away, but you will likely leave your down payment. It is an easy $500-$1000 each time they hook someone into checking out the vehicle.
M42club.com
http://www.M42club.comYup, right here. This is where to start your search.
Our members often will post Ebay auctions they find, as well as Craigslist items, local items, and their own cars. Buying a car from a member is not a bad thing. You may pay more, or less, but odds are someone else on the site has seen the car they are less likely to rip you off, you can search the site and see what problems they have had, and you know they are at least interested in the car and if they are here, likely taking good care of it. Keep in mind, we all got our cars the same way and these cars are old, so do not expect our cars to be perfect either, just better cared for since we became the owner.
