Author Topic: Hesitation after Injector Cleaner (Read 9353 times)

ecalder · « **Reply #15 on:** April 15, 2011, 11:03:01 AM »

I had an extra ECU which I swapped into my car and took it for a spin. Same problem. It seems to happen under heavier load (as I was going up a hill) and I could hear an almost popping (not a backfire though) from under the car when I tried to accelerate during the "limp mode". I let go of the accelerator and a few seconds later it was back to normal.

Toby B · « **Reply #16 on:** April 15, 2011, 12:06:46 PM »

It's hard to troubleshoot multiple systems at once.
If you can get a fuel pressure gauge into the supply
line for the fuel rail, that'll help diagnose the fuel system.

the cam sensor fault does have multiple causes- but it's
worth making sure the sensor's actually working and hooked
up. They do fail. And the wiring gets brittle and fatigues, the connector
corrodes or breaks...

How old are your plug wires?

hth

t

stillmatick · « **Reply #17 on:** April 15, 2011, 12:25:13 PM »

Quote from: ecalder;103067

IE Stage 3 Springs/Bilstein Sports - a great combo...

is IE Stage 3 Springs the same as H&R race? if so i might as well just keep my H&R race spring.

ecalder · « **Reply #18 on:** April 15, 2011, 04:22:08 PM »

Cool I took it to a muffler shop to investigate... My muffler looks charred they told me sometimes the muffler can burn up! But unless it was the fuel injector cleaner I'm not sure how else it could have happened. If replacing (or deleting) the cat fixes my problem then I'll be able to think differently about the sensor code, these might be two totally independent problems from each other.

I need to make sure I didn't jump timing too, I did have that bad spark plug.

My plug wires are the ones that come out of the harness (ECU?) and they're probably original, but they go straight into the coils.

The car's 22 years old it is about due for a fuel test anyways. I'll look that up on here and report the results.

THANKS man.

ecalder · « **Reply #19 on:** April 15, 2011, 04:23:00 PM »

stillmatick I believe the HR Race springs are actually preferred and what SPEC E30s run, I just got an incredible deal on my IE3s I jumped on it. Definitely stick with your springs...

ecalder · « **Reply #20 on:** April 15, 2011, 05:20:54 PM »

It's not the catalytic converter, shop took it out and I drove around with out it and it's still doing the same thing. I'll follow up on the other stuff...

stillmatick · « **Reply #21 on:** April 15, 2011, 09:44:35 PM »

Quote from: ecalder;103083

stillmatick I believe the HR Race springs are actually preferred and what SPEC E30s run, I just got an incredible deal on my IE3s I jumped on it. Definitely stick with your springs...

how much did you pay for ie3? because i got my H&R race for 250.

ecalder · « **Reply #22 on:** April 16, 2011, 03:15:27 PM »

Well, whatever was going in caused what I believe to be a spun bearing or something in the engine. I took the mechanic out around the block to replicate the problem today and when I reproduced it the engine really didnt like it this time. Now there is a knocking sound in the engine and the mech says I likely threw a rod bearing due to fuel starvation.

Great. RIP m42. You served me well.

stillmatick · « **Reply #23 on:** April 16, 2011, 04:03:45 PM »

threw a rod bearing due to fuel starvation lol seriously that's bs.
what shop did you go to?

is it a fast knocking sound? probably you dropped a valve.

B318M42W · « **Reply #24 on:** April 17, 2011, 04:08:16 PM »

maybe your fuel starvation issue is from a bad electric pump connection. clean/ make it snug. might help! Maybe you have a failed injector thats not giving enough gas and it detonates?

ecalder · « **Reply #25 on:** April 19, 2011, 09:05:23 AM »

Stillmakic, I took it to a stupid muffler shop that does my state inspections because it is around the corner from me. How can I tell if it is a valve? Just take off the valve cover? To me it sounds like it is coming from the TOP of the engine (head) not as much the bottom but I don't have a stethoscope to zero in on the sound. I'll have to take a look.

B318M42W If in fact I get this engine back up and running I'm thinking I'll re-do the entire fuel system just to be safe. I'm sure after 22 years my car could use a new pump and I don't think the injectors have been changed for a while. When you say electric pump connection do you mean under the gas tank cover under the back seat?

B318M42W · « **Reply #26 on:** April 19, 2011, 06:47:04 PM »

yeah, the one thats plugs right into the pump. make sure it's nice and snug/wont move when hard cornering

ecalder · « **Reply #27 on:** April 27, 2011, 10:32:34 PM »

Thanks guys I'm looking for an engine! I'm even thinking m20 if it was at the right price. BUT I LOVE MY M42... I'm torn between having a super reliable beast of an engine and getting to race in Spec e30. Damn. Anyways if anyone knows of an m20 that's in good shape I'm on the market. Thanks for all the advice. Hopefully I can get the fuel issue fixed before this happens again!

stillmatick · « **Reply #28 on:** May 04, 2011, 09:47:13 PM »

most the time when someone dropped a valve you block will also be damage. best to get another m42 motor and stroke it.

bmwman91 · « **Reply #29 on:** May 05, 2011, 02:43:03 AM »

You'll have to pull the head to really get an idea if what's up in there. If there's nothing obvious, then you'll have to get into the bottom end. At this point, there are a number of things you can speculate. This might be a good opportunity to rebuild the motor. Metric Mechanic sells some pretty nifty stuff you could install in the motor to really beef it up for track duty (360 deg thrust bearing, enhanced oiling grooves on main bearings, lightened pistons/conn rods, etc).

Good luck!