Author Topic: Throttle Cables  (Read 3718 times)

ScottyWM

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Throttle Cables
« on: March 26, 2011, 04:42:02 PM »
Hi all, first post here as I've not had many problems with the E36 that weren't easily fixed. I've done a LOT of work on my E34, and there's a lot of similarities.

I'm in the process of changing all the coolant, air, fuel, and air hoses on the M42 April 1993 build date. I had the plastic coolant tube along the block break so I figure I'll do the whole job. I'm going to remove the intake manifold to get at everything.
1) How do you disconnect the throttle cables? I tried with the cuise control cable, and ended up breaking the rubber grommet thing. It doesn't look like thats a big problem, it'll still go back together. But is that the only way to get the cables out? Push the rubber grommet out of the bracket?
2) Do I HAVE to remove the throttle body to take off the top, then the bottom, manifolds? I probably will anyway so I can clean it good, but it looks  to me like it would come right off with the top manifold.

TIA...
Scott
\'93 318is 155k miles
\'93 525iT 215k miles
\'78 MGB many smiles

a930rocket

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« Reply #1 on: March 26, 2011, 06:04:52 PM »
I just did mine and I removed the TB with the cable attached, and set it aside. Then the upper intake, followed by the lower intake. You might be able to use your old gaskets, but have some new ones in case.
1991 318is

1987 911 Turbo

ScottyWM

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Help, I'm stuck
« Reply #2 on: March 27, 2011, 11:48:16 AM »
Okay, got the TB off, and the upper intake. Labeled where everything goes and took lots of pictures. But I'm stuck at the bottom intake.

The wiring harnesses all snake around and thru the lower manifold. I thought I had disconnected everything, then found that I still had to disconnect the wiring fom the alternator. Okay, got that done. Now it looks like the wiring is still connected to the Starter. Do I seriously have to disconnect all these wires?? The instructions I've seen don't mention all this. But I'm going to have to get the wiring un-snaked to get the lower manifold off. So I've got the car jacked up on a stand, but man that's still going to be a bear to get the wiring off the starter. And even then, the wiring harness will still be connected to the injector rail - but then I should be able to just fold it up out of the way.

Am I doing this the hard way?? I'm about ready to cut the wires and resplice them later!!
Scott
\'93 318is 155k miles
\'93 525iT 215k miles
\'78 MGB many smiles

ScottyWM

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« Reply #3 on: March 27, 2011, 03:58:50 PM »
Never mind... I got 'er done. Finally decided that I just didn't have enough room in there so decided to remove the alternator. That freed up enough area that I could get to the front of the starter and remove the wiring and made it much easier to get to the stuff under the manifold like the bottom bracket. Now the fun part begins...
Scott
\'93 318is 155k miles
\'93 525iT 215k miles
\'78 MGB many smiles

a930rocket

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« Reply #4 on: March 27, 2011, 05:19:44 PM »
Strange. I didn't have to remove any wiring at all except one on the lower right, which just pulled off. Once the upper was off, it was 6-8 nuts to remove the lower.
1991 318is

1987 911 Turbo

ScottyWM

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« Reply #5 on: April 03, 2011, 08:45:12 PM »
It's probably different on the E36 from your E30.

It looks like I've finished this job - I never want to do this again! Very strange though, Once I had it all back together I was ready to start it up and bleed the coolant. When I put the negative battery wire back on there was a huge spark. I'm used to seeing a normal spark but this was much bigger. Don't know why... But it started right up and runs great, smoother than before. I let it run for about 10-15 minutes. Then I turned it off, removed the key, and went to look under the hood for leaks or whatever (none seen). After sitting for about a minute, there was a big spark somewhere at the intake above the oil filter! Scared the crap out of me. I don't even see anything electrical where I noticed the spark. But it was just one big POP! I thought it would be dead... But after checking everything I could check, I started it back up - no problem, no codes (1444), no CEL - everything seemed normal. I don't know what to think, I'm 100% sure I put everything back where it belongs, double checked each connector. Anyway, guess I'll be careful driving with it for awhile, make sure I have the fire extinguisher with me.
Scott
\'93 318is 155k miles
\'93 525iT 215k miles
\'78 MGB many smiles

DesktopDave

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« Reply #6 on: April 03, 2011, 10:49:40 PM »
Check your starter wiring.  It's un-fused power directly from the battery, maye you have a short or some cracked insulation.  Definitely does NOT seem normal.
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ScottyWM

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Good idea
« Reply #7 on: April 04, 2011, 11:34:36 AM »
But the spark I saw was nowhere near the starter. I was thinking maybe the alternator ground hit the starter wire, but it couldn't reach that far. Maybe it was such a surprise I didn't really see where it came from. But I've started it up a few times since with no problems, and it hasn't caught fire yet (knock on wood)!
Scott
\'93 318is 155k miles
\'93 525iT 215k miles
\'78 MGB many smiles

DesktopDave

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« Reply #8 on: April 04, 2011, 04:13:53 PM »
Did you check the ground strap on the motor too?  Sometimes they sort of corrode away and power finds another way to ground.
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Sold: '97 Montrealblau 318iS, '91 Brilliantrot 318i, '91 Brilliantrot 318iS

ScottyWM

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« Reply #9 on: April 04, 2011, 07:37:09 PM »
Any tip on findnig where that would be - '93 E36 318iS ? (Search wasn't any help)
Scott
\'93 318is 155k miles
\'93 525iT 215k miles
\'78 MGB many smiles

Toby B

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« Reply #10 on: April 15, 2011, 12:44:34 AM »
ah, yeah, the 'early' e36 (before 1996) is a royal pain.

Yes, Dorothy, you DO have to unplug the reverse light switch to
remove the lower intake manifold...

Not one of BMW's finest.  Neither was that plastic hose....  yep, mine's a 95...

t
« Last Edit: April 15, 2011, 12:09:18 PM by Toby B »

DesktopDave

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« Reply #11 on: April 15, 2011, 10:48:51 AM »
+1 on that.  The e36 had a lot of teething troubles.  Interior fell apart, water based paint was trouble, wiring issues, rear suspension is weak, DME flooding, EWS, etc.

I'd still consider one, but I'd prefer a '94 or '95.  While it's a bit heavier, the suspension is better, it's slightly bigger, traction control, many upgrades are a bit easier.  Why a '95?  It still had the M42!
'08 Karmesinrot 128i 6MT
'86 Zinnoberrot 635CSi (M30B32/G265/3.46 torsen LSD)

Sold: '97 Montrealblau 318iS, '91 Brilliantrot 318i, '91 Brilliantrot 318iS