Author Topic: I need some Serious $#%@#$in Help seriously (Read 26709 times)

rob_e30 · « **Reply #75 on:** March 03, 2011, 08:23:04 AM »

Our situation was that the car would run okay in the morning, then worse as the day wore on. We chased timing, coils, sensors, fuel pump, ECU, software, grounding straps, spark plugs, fuekl filter, and even thought about sacrificing a chicken.

We then tested the flow rate for the injectors. We removed the fuel rail with the injectors installed, setup each injector into it's own empty and dry water bottle, cranked the engine for 30 seconds, and used a cold medicine dosage cup to measure the results. We had two injectors that were almost non-functional. They would spray enough fuel to let the car idle, and we had tried to tune the problem out by adding more fuel via a longer duty cycle and higher fuel pressure.

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #76 on:** March 05, 2011, 05:43:47 PM »

Its backfiring hardthrough the intake and in the exhaust If I leave my goot on the gas while it's boggin.

B318M42W · « **Reply #77 on:** March 06, 2011, 02:04:02 PM »

crazy idea, most likely not it, still worth a thought and a post at this point. I heard somewhere that a knock sensor might cause issues. maybe some PO changed the engine to a later E36 with the knok sensor and didn't do a good job with the swap.

Another crazy idea: main bearings are toast. too much play could affect the CPS sensor reading and then send false signals to the ECU.
You could check your oil filter for filings (regular proceedure @ every 50h inspections on piston aircraft engine... and those things are realllyyy bullet proof)

just shooting out crazy ideas

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #78 on:** March 06, 2011, 06:04:26 PM »

What would I expect to pay if I were to take it to a mechanic?
- should I start throwing brand new parts at it and take it from there?
I mean if it's spitting a camshaft sensor code, maybe thats a good place to start?
Despite the crankshaft sensor reading .560 ohms and the camshaft 1.250 ohms.

thanks.

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #79 on:** March 18, 2011, 11:59:23 AM »

Fuck this Motherfucking thing,

So now, After doing 2 70 mile trips, on a good ECU, now it's misfiring again. sometimes It seems to be load dependent others it Seems like its RPM dependant. but it is DEfinitley affected by having my foot on the throttle, and it is acting like it's hitting a limiter or spark cut. The trip was a living hell.

pdxmotorhead · « **Reply #80 on:** March 19, 2011, 12:12:46 AM »

Lets go a different direction,,, Have you had the alternator tested? I've had single diode failures cause ridiculous problems.

I see you tested the fuel pressure, have you done a long test? Like jump the fuel pump and let it run for minutes? I've had pickup screens clog when run for a while and clear intermittently... Check in fuel tank for water, and other stuff?

Have you tried disconnecting both ends of the battery cable (If you can't inspect the cable) and putting a ohm meter between the cable and ground to check for a weak short.

Pull all the fuses that the car does not need to run. Secondary short could be another cause...

Dave

pdxmotorhead · « **Reply #81 on:** March 19, 2011, 12:14:12 AM »

I had a tank shrink, it would run fine when full but give the same symptoms youve described when empty, the tank would sag under weight, opening the fuel line, then as it emptied it would pinch the pickup shut.

Dave

Home made iS · « **Reply #82 on:** March 22, 2011, 04:20:12 PM »

Hey Guys,
Ive just fixed a similar problem myself by adjusting the air idle screw on the MAF, I'm using an e30 m40 MAF on an e36 m42 so for me it was kinda justified, found a fairly good "how to" on bimmerforums for MAF adjustment (i know its for m20/30 but the procedure is the same, and from what I can find so are the voltages)

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1339369

I had really bad starting when hot, unable to accelerate unless ur at WOT for the first 30 seconds or so on start up, then it would clear up and smell really rich of fuel.
now its clean smelling and no pops n farts in the exhaust while sitting at the traffic lights :cool:

I'm aware that this may not be ur problem, but it may be also.....

Just for my 2 cents

P.S. I'm no mechanic just an educated enthusiast.

colin86325 · « **Reply #83 on:** March 23, 2011, 07:54:06 AM »

Have you checked the fuel tank for sediment?

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #84 on:** March 28, 2011, 07:02:59 PM »

The problem seems to be more based upon engine temperature, not necessarily water temp.

Is it possible that a sensor will fail if it is cold?

Im still getting random, occasional missfires at 2,5K- 3k rpm, if I downshift then I can continue driving, and it goes away. maybe it is the same sensor. also, the Tach bounces minimally when it is misfirin.

snitzer · « **Reply #85 on:** December 19, 2011, 06:56:21 PM »

My IS is doing the same thing :mad:.... any updates?

91318isguy · « **Reply #86 on:** December 24, 2011, 09:22:14 AM »

Fifty,

How was the IS running before you replaced the plug wires with COP's? Also I might have missed the posts but I tried to read everything and one of the latest was that you changed the ECU. Did you change the Camshaft sensor? These things are great when they're @ 100% but I tell you what, one little thing goes on with it and BOOM it seems like the whole thing is falling apart.

From a mechanic that you trust you're probably looking at no more than 500 to do everything like that. You're not doing an engine swap or digging deep into the engine. I only have internet currently here at work so I haven't been able to view your video of how it's running but something to consider would be:

Take off the COP's - yes they make them for the E30 M42 BUT... it wasn't stock with the vehicle.

Replace the Camshaft Sensor

Replace the PCV valve

Stupid question but have you checked your plugs? Not the wires, the plugs themselves. They could have had an incorrect one at the MFG and most likely you like pretty much everyone else probably isn't running standard electrode plugs anymore (which really don't lend themselves to adjusting gap). Just a thought. I've been in the middle of an engine swap for the past year (M42 going back in) and it's a pain in the butt how tempermental and touchy these guys are.

beta14ok · « **Reply #87 on:** December 24, 2011, 02:52:07 PM »

Had similar issue with my M42. Stomp test said cyl #1 had a bad coil. but was actually #3. My advise, buy 1 extra coil and swap-test each one sequentially.

snitzer · « **Reply #88 on:** January 08, 2012, 07:34:41 PM »

was looking around on the interwebs and found a tsb dealing with an afm problem. the fix was a chunk of new harness between the old meter connection and the meter. my car had this foot long add in when i got it. not knowing what it was, i removed it and never had an issue....now that i'm having a problem, well i can't find the chunk of harness.

Fifty, do you have this add-in in your harness?

LoneWolf · « **Reply #89 on:** February 06, 2012, 01:42:13 PM »

Was this ever solved fully?

My IS is doing some odd things like this.

This weekend I plan on cleaning up the ICV and looking to replace the vacuum leaks.

Could this haven anything to do with my MPG gauge not working right? It uses vacuum I think.