Author Topic: idle control valve? (Read 7873 times)

Brian318is · « **Reply #15 on:** January 22, 2011, 03:02:38 PM »

Alright.. busy day today. Seems I have successfully stabilized my idle, for now. Can't be too excited now, because I'm still going to wait a while before I declare it a success.

First, I used seafoam. I used 3/4 bottle (not on purpose, but whatever) in the vacuum line from the brake booster while running. Ran a 3/8" hose and popped it right into the bottle to suck it up. Turned the car off. Added 1/3 bottle into the engine oil and let it all sit for about 10 minutes. Turned the car back on, white smoke like none other. I drove it for about 10 miles until I did not see any more smoke coming out. It was pretty funny though, people were not riding my ass, they probably thought my car was going to explode.

Second, did an oil change. I used Amsoil 5-40 European formula. (Coming from Mobil 1 15-50, which I wasn't too thrilled with.) Ams is great, would highly recommend.

Third, installed NEW o2 Sensor (Took me about 5 minutes, and that's only because I had a hard time lining up the damn plug.)

Four, started car for the first time.. IDLE BEGAN JUMPING AS USUAL (I was about to be livid) and then it fell to around 600 or so and purred like a newborn parrot. Idled completely fine. Took it out for a spin.. about 5 miles. Took it easy for about 5 minutes once the oil was warm, then laid into it.. it drove great. Then took it easy around town. Stop and go, the idle did not jump or spaz out.. thrilling.

So, as of right now.. problem solved. Any questions, feel free to ask.

Good luck!

stillmatick · « **Reply #16 on:** January 23, 2011, 10:50:24 PM »

Well my problem is fix,rpm needle is very smooth and steady when idling or letting off gas.

Brian318is,you shouldn't use seafoam because additive stuff will damage the car instead helping it.

Brian318is · « **Reply #17 on:** January 27, 2011, 09:27:02 AM »

It's been about a week now.. and FOR THE MOST PART, my idle has been stabilized. However, from time to time, it will start to bounce. It may not even be every day, maybe 2 times this week.. it's driving me crazy.

Other than that, it's been good.

Max55 · « **Reply #18 on:** January 28, 2011, 10:50:46 PM »

guys, check your TPS sensor wires, pull back the rubber boot covering them. I checked mine and 2 of 3 wires were not even really connected anymore and occasionally making contact. I found that if you remove the TPS sensor connectors all together it idles, just high 1000-1100 rpm.

I too and still having idle issues, though, after rewiring my TPS, its not with a factory cable setup though, so i dont know if i 100% solved it. I replaced my ICV last year so im hesitant to replace it again. the only sensors that I haven't replaced are the o2, crank, and tps ,and cam.

I also have an issue where around 3700-4000 rpm rpms sometimes drop and then go up like the car had stopped getting fuel (which is what lead me to the tps)

stillmatick · « **Reply #19 on:** February 17, 2011, 02:26:30 AM »

well my problem came back lol guess i check out the tps. it only idle high around 1000-1100 rpm or lower.

Max55 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 20, 2011, 08:52:49 AM »

I dont know how you E30 guys are holding up but the wires on my e36 are getting old and cracking etc where they connect from the DME to the idle control valve and the crank sensor, and the TPS!!!! I have since rewired the ICV and the TPS but am looking at new crank sensor.

Because of this, my car was idling up to 1300, and thenwould drop to 1000, and then up again and down again, repeatedly, non stop, crazy