M42 / 318is confidence issues

[harvey2]

Perhaps my expectations are too high, I don't know, but here's some history behind my dilemma.  My '91 318is got a complete going-over and freshening about 2 years ago, right before I bought it.  Prior to this the car had 150,000 miles on it. The work was done by reliable and honest pros that I have known for a long time.  Included in this freshening was an engine swap to a low miles M42 of good pedigree with 50,000 miles on it as well as various bushing, engine mount and misc chassis repairs.   At that point, a fair bit of money had been spent but I thought the car should be pretty solid for quite a while.  Since then I've driven:
- 3 track days
- 16 autocross competitions
- about 6000 miles on the street

Recently, we've had a series of expensive failures that shake my confidence in the car.  Things like failed transmission shaft seal, fuel pump failure, gasoline leak (new tank required), oil leak from timing cover, leak from steering rack, and driveline vibration.  The car is parked and waiting for fixes of some of these.  This is supposed to be a toy/fun car for autocross, not a daily driver, but just the same it will cost many $ to get it back on the road.  It would be different if I did my own repairs, but I don't have skills or time for that.  

I didn't get hit with so many problems with the old Japanese cars I've owned in my 39 year driving experience.  Is this a BMW thing that I have to expect?  Would a Miata give me as much grief?  Should I sell the car?   I'm suffering from a crisis of confidence in my 318is and invite comments, comparisons, criticism or commiseration.

[gearheadE30]

Between 150k and 200k miles, fuel pumps tend to go bad. Mine lasted 230k miles. That's kind of a known thing on all e30s, although a few do go longer than that.

Which transmission shaft seal failed? I actually had mine blow the seal out on track. Usually the cause of this is the breather on top of the trans gets clogged with grime and the pressure in teh trans pushes fluid out of the seal.

Gas tanks almost never leak unless they are rusty. That can also contribute to fuel pump failure, if the pump sucks up rust.

Timing covers leak if they aren't preloaded right. Mine are, and they still leak a little. I can't find a way to fix that.

Steering racks seem to leak a lot on e30s. upgrade to an e36 rack (used for maybe $125) if you can. Faster ratio makes the car feel waaaayyyyy more modern. They also tend to leak less, from my experience.

Driveline-could be anything. Driveshaft u-joint, torn CV joints on the half shafts and subsequent grease loss, or maybe a bad CSB.

Unfortunately, all of the stuff you're describing, minus the leaky gas tank, are pretty normal for a car with 150k to 200k on it. It also all tends to happen at once...

In reality, any older car will give you this kind of trouble, particularly when it sees track use and hard driving.

[harvey2]

Which transmission shaft seal failed? I actually had mine blow the seal out on track. Usually the cause of this is the breather on top of the trans gets clogged with grime and the pressure in teh trans pushes fluid out of the seal.

The input one gave out.  It caused clutch problems so I had the clutch replaced at the same time, another big dollar item.  Happily, we upgraded to a lighter M20 single mass unit which made the expense a bit less painful.

Gas tanks almost never leak unless they are rusty. That can also contribute to fuel pump failure, if the pump sucks up rust.

I guess mine is rusty.  The leak is at the upper left and seems related to the fuel return.  They quoted $700 for a fix, so not done yet.

Timing covers leak if they aren't preloaded right. Mine are, and they still leak a little. I can't find a way to fix that.

This one really irks me as i thought the engine was especially solid and I'm sure they had the cover off for a new tensioner during the freshening project.  Back when i was a kid, all American engines leaked all the time and it was no big deal, but I pioneered owning Japanese and got used to no oil leaks on the driveway.  Now I'm spoiled, i guess.  This may be just something to live with, you know just put a sheet of cardboard under the car and top up occasionally.  

Steering racks seem to leak a lot on e30s. upgrade to an e36 rack (used for maybe $125) if you can. Faster ratio makes the car feel waaaayyyyy more modern. They also tend to leak less, from my experience.

Yeah, this is another area where an upgrade to a better ratio is going to take a lot of the pain out of the repair, so unless I sell the car, I'm following your advice.

Driveline-could be anything. Driveshaft u-joint, torn CV joints on the half shafts and subsequent grease loss, or maybe a bad CSB.

This started after the transmission repair, and i should add that we did  a differential swap at the same time.  The diff itself seems to be source of the growl, but I'm not so sure now.  I guess diagnosing this is just hassle rather than cost.

Unfortunately, all of the stuff you're describing, minus the leaky gas tank, are pretty normal for a car with 150k to 200k on it. It also all tends to happen at once...

I was afraid of that.  My Mazda 323 went for 170,000 miles before I sold it and it never really hit me with repairs like the BMW.  Then again, I didn't drive it as hard either.  On the other hand, my 68 Triumph Spitfire, which barely made it to 90,000 miles was a money pit the whole way.  Then my '73 240Z gave me several years of service without a peep of complaint.  '77 Rabbit, bought new, was ok, with only two surprise breakdowns over about 8 years.  I'm still driving a Mazda pickup that we bought in '89 that just keeps going and going like the energizer bunny without a hiccup.  Our Toyota is 10 years old and no problems at all.  My '01 E39 540 was nice to drive for 80,000 miles but something was breaking almost every four months (damn check engine light was on almost constantly, not to mention the stupid radiator).  Even the barge of an '83 Oldsmobile kept going without much trouble other than raining oil on the driveway all the time.  Had a really old F150 pickup back in the '70s that put in a lot of service and didn't break.  Perhaps my memory is too selective, eh?

In reality, any older car will give you this kind of trouble, particularly when it sees track use and hard driving.

Perhaps.  Are parts for other brands as expensive?

[DesktopDave]

I'd have to vote that it does all seem to happen at once.  The transmission failure is a very unusual one though.  Getrag's 240 is a well-made model IMHO.  I don't think  I've heard of that happening yet.  Did it require ATF or gear oil?  Proper oil added?  Anyone else had that trouble?  The small case diff is another story, they seem to last 100k miles or so.  I swapped my dying one (2nd diff according to PO's records) with a 325 medium case 3.73 to gain LSD & drop my highway RPM.  The e36 rack is an especially good idea.  The drive line center  support bearing (CSB) mount can fail prematurely if it isn't preloaded  properly.  They don't last that long even when they are installed  perfectly.  A new transmission might have caused that indirectly.   Failing guibo, or diff subframe bushings can make normal noises much  louder as well.  The rusting fuel filler neck is an unfortunate problem, well-known in saltier places.  I snatched up an OEM fuel tank when I found a bargain, just in case.

I used to think I didn't have the skills or tools for that...but now I do.  I just swapped a motor for the fun of it, if you can believe that.  Use the pros for big jobs and expert opinion...I'd suspect you can tackle that drive shaft/diff job/fuel tank with gloves, eye protection, a cheap lift, some stands, and a torque wrench/socket set/wrenches & PB Blaster.  If only you lived a bit closer, I'd be glad to help out.  I started with brake changes and found that the cost of tools & parts often came out to far less than the quotes I got.  If you bought it as a toy you should absolutely take a wrench to it occasionally.  It'll teach the car some manners!

Mine is in great shape but I just got used to the little troubles it always seems to have (read that as "I drank the Kool-Aid").  Mine also leaks from the cam cover/block gasket.  It's a stupid design that's leaked for mostly everyone.  I'd guess it's the differing coefficients of expansion, but it's a well-known problem.  At least your profile gasket has been updated.  Keep an eye out for cam gear wear & tensioner failure as well.

Japanese cars are much more reliable in my experience, but they really don't make one like this.  They're not immune to problems, as they rust far more freely than BMWs in my stable have.  Mazdas have been good to me, but I've had a lot of trouble with  Nissans.  My 200sx required an alternator and a fuel pump, both pretty  overpriced even from a foreign parts supply house.  Dealer was  outrageous & nobody else carried them.  When the windshield seal  failed I traded it in on a 240sx that gave me no trouble at all.  Personally, I'm sure that I drive the BMW harder, but it is more expensive in parts than the Japanese tend to be.  I do my own work, so as long as it isn't the most expensive parts I'm OK with splurging a little now & then.

On the plus side they're not nearly as expensive as an M3 or an equivalent Mercedes...imagine keeping a Cosworth 2.3 running?!?!  Once you get the troubles fixed they should stay fixed for a long time.  Expect a lot of bias here...I have to admit that I'm hooked.

[VegasKyle]

This one really irks me as i thought the engine was especially solid and I'm sure they had the cover off for a new tensioner during the freshening project.  

If all they did was the tensioner the cover wasn't off.  

I know you said you feel like you don't have the skills. Trust me you do.  Checking the oil was the extent of my mechanical skill set until I was stuck with a nissan with a bad starter.  I wasn't able to get it to my mechanic and he told me to do it myself.  He emailed me the instructions from a manuel and after almost giving up mid way through a couple of times I got it in.  What a great sense of accomplishment to have that thing turn over.

That kind of opened the flood gates.  I found I really enjoy working on cars.  I have ZERO training or prior experience but I'm amazed at what I'm able to do.  There is so much information available on the internet (this site in particular) its only a matter of following directions.  15-20 years ago this wouldn't be possible now any info available to a professional mechanic is available to you.  If you can follow a recipe you can do most things that it takes to keep an E30 on the road.

On to your original question.  I bought my 318is knowing it was going to take a reasonable amount of time and money.  I wanted a car that was fun to drive, had available parts, cheep to buy and maintain (relatively) and that I would be able to work on myself (nothing too modern or requiring specialized tools).  If I wan't willing to do most repairs myself I wouldn't have bought the car.  It's 20 years old.  The only 20 year old cars without problems are going to cost a ton of money. 99% of the time you don't recoup what you put into a car, if someone took the time and money to fix everything on a 20 year old car chances are they aren't selling.

[gearheadE30]

I'd have to vote that it does all seem to happen at once.  The transmission failure is a very unusual one though.  Getrag's 240 is a well-made model IMHO.  I don't think  I've heard of that happening yet.  Did it require ATF or gear oil?  Proper oil added?  Anyone else had that trouble?

He said that the seal failed, not the trans. G240s are good transmissions, up to a point. I have now gone through 2, though. The first went because it ran out of oil on track due to the seal issue. The second sheared off third gear... Now I baby that trans quite a bit, heh.

The small case diff is another story, they seem to last 100k miles or so.

I'm on the original diff, at 250k miles with a turbo and no issues to speak of... The only failure mode I've ever seen is noise, and all other old diffs seem to do it too...


OP: If it is a grumbling noise and not as much of a vibration, I bet it's your diff. It shouldn't be a problem, aside from being annoying, unless it runs low on fluid.

My sincerest advice would be to buy a Bentley manual and try to teach yourself to work on the car. Start with small stuff until you get the hang of it. It saves so much money that the time and effort spent learning are far and away worth it. It is also a lot more rewarding to work on your own car. It also opens up the avenue of used parts, which is a great way to save money. E30s are also some of the easiest cars to work on that I have ever seen. If you ever take apart a japanese car, the differences are really noticeable. The e30 is made to be taken apart, fixed, and put back together. Every japanese car I've worked on has been a mess of cheap/stripped bolts, brittle plastic clips, and thin sheetmetal.

Of note, if your timing case is leaking that much that you have to put cardboard under the car, that's a pretty good-sized leak. Mine leaks a little, but its only like one drip on the driveway every 2 weeks or something. I'd check with a mirror or something to make sure that the chain tensioner isn't the issue. Mine leaked profusely because it wasn't tight enough, heh.

[DesktopDave]

My sincerest advice would be to buy a Bentley manual and try to teach yourself to work on the car. Start with small stuff until you get the hang of it. It saves so much money that the time and effort spent learning are far and away worth it. It is also a lot more rewarding to work on your own car. It also opens up the avenue of used parts, which is a great way to save money. E30s are also some of the easiest cars to work on that I have ever seen. If you ever take apart a japanese car, the differences are really noticeable. The e30 is made to be taken apart, fixed, and put back together. Every japanese car I've worked on has been a mess of cheap/stripped bolts, brittle plastic clips, and thin sheetmetal.

That's true, glad you brought that up.  I have always been happy with the quality of German fasteners (with the exception of the speed sensor in the diff and the rad bleed plug).  I suspect that their engineers actually work on cars...components are typically easy to get at and thoughtfully installed.  Even most of the original plastic fasteners are still hanging in there.  Gasket tech has eluded the M42 though...mine seeps like a sieve, a drop or two of my thin synthetic every night.

I did have one tremendously annoying problem with my 240sx, besides the truck engine.  The trunk  rattled because of that silly OEM heavy plastic spoiler.  The catch was  adjustable, but if it was tight enough not to rattle the trunk lid would  catch on the seal and not open properly.  I must have fiddled with that  100 times.  Never did get it just right.

Not to get stereotypical here (who, me?), maybe what we need is an European-sized car with a Japanese motor,in a chassis & body designed by the Germans, styled by the Italians, containing a Swedish interior and manufactured by Koreans.  If you add American sales, service & support I'd suspect perfection would be within reach.  Come to think of it, I'm not too far off from a Stirling.  :rolleyes:  Anyone recall them?  I guess they were pretty bad cars.  Ford seems to have the captive import game well in hand now...the Mondeo/Contour/Mystique really surprised me in terms of quality and driveability for a 'domestic.'

[supadave]

That's true, glad you brought that up.  I have always been happy with the quality of German fasteners (with the exception of the speed sensor in the diff and the rad bleed plug).  I suspect that their engineers actually work on cars...components are typically easy to get at and thoughtfully installed.  Even most of the original plastic fasteners are still hanging in there.  Gasket tech has eluded the M42 though...mine seeps like a sieve, a drop or two of my thin synthetic every night.

I did have one tremendously annoying problem with my 240sx, besides the truck engine.  The trunk  rattled because of that silly OEM heavy plastic spoiler.  The catch was  adjustable, but if it was tight enough not to rattle the trunk lid would  catch on the seal and not open properly.  I must have fiddled with that  100 times.  Never did get it just right.

Not to get stereotypical here (who, me?), maybe what we need is an European-sized car with a Japanese motor,in a chassis & body designed by the Germans, styled by the Italians, containing a Swedish interior and manufactured by Koreans.  If you add American sales, service & support I'd suspect perfection would be within reach.  Come to think of it, I'm not too far off from a Stirling.  :rolleyes:  Anyone recall them?  I guess they were pretty bad cars.  Ford seems to have the captive import game well in hand now...the Mondeo/Contour/Mystique really surprised me in terms of quality and driveability for a 'domestic.'

Thats so true. If we could have all that... Hmm Jap swap?

[DesktopDave]

Thats so true. If we could have all that... Hmm Jap swap?

I'll have the Honda F22 please.  Even if it does sound like a sewing machine at times...

[supadave]

F22 is a bad lil engine NA, FI that bitch for about 400bhp!

[harvey2]

You guys are inspiring me.  I did indeed buy a Bentley manual a few months ago, but haven't got into it yet.  The real problem here is that I start too many projects around the house and in my work and now have a long list of half finished assignments that all take priority over car repairs.  I know that if I take on a repair, it will go glacially slow because of low confidence in what I'm doing, which makes it all the worse because I don't have the time. I'm sure this is a familiar problem to many of you.  If I can crack that problem, the skills and tools part will not be an issue.

On the diff noise, it is really hard to tell what the problem is.  It is indeed annoying and peaks sharply at highway speeds and mainly when I feather the throttle.  It is clearly coming from under the rear seat, roughly in the center as far as I can tell.  I think that I will try two things when the time comes.  One is to simply undo the drive shaft and rotate it 90degrees and bolt it back on to see if that changes anything (maybe its a balance problem).  The other is to swap to a spare diff that I've recently got my hands on.  This noise showed up after a diff swap whereas before the swap it was all silent, so I don't immediately suspect the bearings or joints in the drive shaft or half shafts.    My mechanic listened to it on the street and on the hoist and figured it was a problem inside the diff, but a minor one.

Anyway, thanks for the encouraging words.  Changing to another car will cost at least as much dough as the parts cost for everything that my BMW needs, and there are some other considerations I haven't mentioned yet, which I will now explain:
- I am very tall and don't fit into that many cars
- I have tailored the BMW to make it fit me so now I enjoy driving it very much
- I really prefer rear wheel drive
- I was really getting into autocross but found that even if/when my driving gets better, the BMW is not competitive in its class (a 318is with mild mods in DSP), which suggests a car change down the road sometime

[DesktopDave]

We're here for you...I read this board for months before I bought one.  Then I read for a few more months.  Now I occasionally help other members.  It's all about confidence, really.  If I had a dollar for every time I said, "What have I gotten myself into this time?" I'd be able to afford a newer BMW.  If I had a less needy car I'm sure I'd have more home improvement projects done...

I appreciate your logic too.  We're in the same boat, height-wise.  Isn't it great to have a sunroof in a small car that still fits?

The drive shaft is a PITA because of the exhaust & heat shields.  Getting them off or out of the way is problem #1.  PB Blaster helps a lot here.  Removing the driveshaft is also very difficult if the diff is mounted.  Perform any work on the shaft/tranny or mounts before you put the diff back on.

The drive shaft is splined together in two pieces, there is a large sheet steel hex "nut" in the middle.  Unscrewing it five or ten turns with a large channel lock (after wedging a big screwdriver into the u-joint yoke to hold it from rotating) will permit you to shorten the total length slightly or pull the entire thing apart.  That's how you get a new CSB on as well.  Beware that the shaft is balanced in one orientation - it should be marked with two white dots on either side of the CSB.  If yours isn't, be sure you paint marks before you pull it apart, otherwise it'll need re-balanced.

My diff problem manifested as a growling that became very intrusive at highway speeds.  The input bearings were loose enough that I could wiggle the input flange with my bare hands!

[harvey2]

W

I appreciate your logic too.  We're in the same boat, height-wise.  Isn't it great to have a sunroof in a small car that still fits?

Thanks Dave.  Call me lucky, but I've got an 'is without a sunroof.  Less weight up top is a good thing, and my helmet barely touches the liner!

[DesktopDave]

Coincidence...I'm working on my now-powered sunroof right now.  The slip clutch is mis-adjusted.  Didn't know what that was a day ago...