Author Topic: problem trying to bleed coolant (Read 4067 times)

Eric Happy Meal · « **on:** September 24, 2010, 11:18:03 PM »

I am totally baffled at this one, i just removed a few things as well as the TB heater delete, but i cant seem to bleed the system correctly... I took off the top hose, held it up with the filler cap on and it evently leveled out to the point where the coolant was coming out of the upper radiator hose.

Heater on, and it blows hot.
upper hose will gradually get hot.
only coolant comes out of the bleeder screw.
upper hose gradually gets hotter.
heater core hoses are hotter than upper rad hose.
lower rad hose is cold.
radiator core is cold.

my coolant temp sensor is in the upper hose and its getting up to about 180 (was getting to 205/210 prior to this) and thats as much as im running it as the upper timing cover is SIGNIFICANTLY hotter than the upper hose.

No leaks in the system (and no water residue on oil filler cap or on the dipstick)

level in the reservoir doesnt dip when rev'd up. i dont understand why its not circulating through the radiator?

cheesebox · « **Reply #1 on:** September 25, 2010, 08:53:23 AM »

Are you following the procedure as per http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318ismaintenance.html#bleed ?

I've found also an air lock can form in the top (or bottom - can't remember) radiator hose. That might be your problem. Keep squeezing the hose flat and releasing - you will hear air being forced out and water being drawn through. Eventually all the air will be forced out.

KenC · « **Reply #2 on:** September 25, 2010, 11:20:23 AM »

You have an airlock. Rev it up a few times and the water pump should force it through. Don't even attempt to bleed the system until your thermostat is open.

Eric Happy Meal · « **Reply #3 on:** September 26, 2010, 10:05:54 PM »

thermostat was stuck closed.

Eric Happy Meal · « **Reply #4 on:** September 30, 2010, 09:46:29 PM »

ok, still having problems, the thermostat was bad(boiling water test), replaced it but im still having problems. when i add coolant to the reservoir, the level in it never drops, it just starts to overflow from the top (front of the car is on jackstands right now). ive tried it opening the bleeder screw without the tstat open, and only opening it after the tstat is open. with the bleeder screw open/closed and the car running at idle the reservoir level slowly continues to rise, never dropping back down again.

and on further inspection, after i get the car nice and hot trying to bleed it, i close the bleeder screw and put the rad cap back on, i hear what almost sounds like bubbling.. (coolant temp isnt getting about 210) maybe an air leak? and then i noticed that water from the bleeder screw isnt coming out from the top of #5 in this picture, but it is all leaving below that and coming down near the side of the reservoir. Im not sure if that is normal, or if its a symptom.

Ive tried just about every method that Ive read online, as well as asking a few of the techs at my work and nothing seems to be working.

pdxmotorhead · « **Reply #5 on:** October 01, 2010, 01:31:37 AM »

I add watter wetter, it seems to break bubbles down... Like anti foam in a hot - tub

Dave

colin86325 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 02, 2010, 05:30:34 PM »

Try drilling a tiny hole through the top of the sealing plate. This will help it bleed. Many thermostats come like this, but the M42 does not. My mechanic (Peerless) suggested that we try this, and it did the trick.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #7 on:** October 02, 2010, 06:54:06 PM »

My bleeder screw is slotted - the bubbles & coolant flow (or shoots) out of the top. I've only bled it late at night (I know that's idiotic). Looking at that diagram I'm not entirely sure why it should do that.

The level should rise in the overflow tank - as the coolant heats up it does substantially expand. Does the coolant return to the same level after it cools?