Author Topic: Just Started, Need a little help. (Read 6221 times)

Jesse Nystrom · « **on:** June 18, 2010, 01:14:42 AM »

I've been putting back cash for sometime now for an M3 E30, yet I've been finding it very hard to find one in my area.

Then, I was driving a friend home and saw a 318is in this guys yard. It had grass grown up around it so I figured it wasn't being used, after two weeks of driving by it, I stopped and asked the man if it was for sale, he said that it had quit running and he needed to get rid of it, so I bought it for 500$

/cool story bro

I really have no formal education with engine mechanics, but I have a bit of common sense and I want to learn all I can, I'm good with mechanics, but I have never embarked on such a large project on my own.

anyways, down to business

To start with all I got was a click so I had the battery tested and it would not hold a charge so I replaced it.

It then turned over pretty well so I pulled all the plugs and made sure they all sparked, I got strong sparks and double checked that cables were in the right order. Can I assume the coil packs are good if I get spark?

Since that was working I assumed it might not be getting gas and I checked the fuel pump and it pumps well, I bought a new fuel filter and while I was at it, I drained the tank of its old gas by hooking the fuel pump up to a 12 volt source and collecting it where the Fuel Filter hooks up (it was dark orange), then I put some fresh 91 octane in it.

After that I assumed that it might be a problem with the injectors, so I borrowed a Noid Light and checked the plugs on the injectors, I got a solid light on all of them. I'm pretty sure this is wrong, I think it is supposed to flash, but I'm not sure what electrical component controls the fuel injectors

I get the occasional "Putt" or backfire when I use some starter spray on it, but thats about it, when it does "Putt" it spits black smoke out of the exhaust.

Also, I've checked the plugs after turning it over and they are wet with gas.

I'm really not sure what to try next, I borrowed an Engine Compression Gage, and I will test it in the next few days, I figured if it was getting both gas a spark that maybe there is no compression?

Like worn rings or something?

Regardless, I hope to become an adequate and knowledgeable M42 and E30 Owner. I'm glad to have found your forums, and any help is heavily appreciated.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #1 on:** June 18, 2010, 07:10:47 AM »

Nice score - that car looks great! Welcome to the club.

First off, I''d do the stomp test - put the key in position II and quickly stomp the gas pedal five times. It'll start the CEL blinking with codes.

Second, test the three motor relays under the firewall shroud. I use a bit of wire to short the fuel pump if required.

Finally, test the resistance of the crank & cam sensors. They should be about 600 & 1200 ohms respectively, give or take 100. If the crank sensor is bad the car won't start. It'll crank & fire plugs, but the fuel pump won't run.

Jesse Nystrom · « **Reply #2 on:** June 18, 2010, 03:14:25 PM »

Thanks for the reply, and I'm excited to get this thing in good shape.

I'm busy with work today but tomorrow I'll log all the CEL codes.

I didn't know about that until you mentioned it, but after looking I found a good list of the fault codes, thanks for the tip
http://www.bimmerzone.com/fcodes.htm

I noticed those relays coming up on some other threads, I pulled them out the other day and they looked all right but I doubt you can tell by appearance alone. I'll get that done.

I have a multimeter, and I'll test both the crank and cam sensors, to save me a little time, where is the crank sensor located?

I know the fuel pump is working though, It pumps well when the car turns over, in fact before I put the new fuel filter on I forgot it was off and tried to start it, made a mess all over the ground.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #3 on:** June 18, 2010, 08:12:03 PM »

If the fuel pump is working the relay is likely OK. Some fuel pumps will fail but still pump...it might not be delivering enough pressure. Replace the fuel filter too, after all that time it might be full of junk.

Might be that from sitting all that time the rings have no oil in them...ergo no compression thus no fire.

You have the plugs and wires arranged 1-2-3-4 from the rad to the firewall, right? Just asking...you'd be surprised how many easy mistakes like that keep a car from starting.

Pull the cam cover too...make sure the timing chain is really turning the cams. The M42 is infamous for tensioner and chain issues.

Jesse Nystrom · « **Reply #4 on:** June 21, 2010, 03:19:03 PM »

Bad Day

I went to check the CEL Codes and could not get the light to flash, I tried it in a variety of ways but could not get it to work.

Next I checked the compression and got nothing, No compression whatsoever.

Also, I'm still getting oil all over my spark plugs, this is making me suspicious that my rings are gone.

Anyway, with plenty of spark and gas, and yet lack of compression I think I have narrowed down what is wrong with it.

locknload · « **Reply #5 on:** June 21, 2010, 05:40:40 PM »

Hmmm. Next step it seems is pull the cam cover and make sure the cams are still turning. If the spark plugs are oily, your rings are probably getting a dose of it as well. I suspect you are pulling oil past the valves (bad valve seals). Se if the chain is still turning the cams, but it looks like the head will need to come off next.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #6 on:** June 21, 2010, 06:04:14 PM »

No CEL, eh? Hopefully just a burned out bulb. Common problem for a 20 year old car...

It's a long shot but you might just have dry rings. Did you drop a spoonful of oil down the plug holes? If that engine has been sitting for a few years it most likely will have no compression at all. The oil is what really keeps compression high, as long as the rings are strong enough.

That 'wet' compression test will also give you a good indication if you have bad rings (if compression goes up) or valves (if no change).

Def pull the cam cover. Turn the engine over to TDC and see if the cams line up properly. I'd suspect that the tensioner failed & the cam chain skipped a few. Lots of bent valves in that case.

Jesse Nystrom · « **Reply #7 on:** June 21, 2010, 06:27:21 PM »

I'll pull the CEL bulb and see if its working, hopefully I can get some codes out of it in the next few days.

lol, well I was a bit ahead of you dave, I just tried the spoon full of oil idea before checking this again, a local repair shop recommended it to me.

I know that gas has leaked down past the rings because my oil reaks of gasoline, I'm gonna do an oil change soon so I don't damage my engine with mixed cruddy oil.

This is most likely why there is no oil around the rings, something that you have already mentioned.

I also swapped out the plugs with another one of my cars, It sputtered about 3 times and spat out white smoke, and when i pulled the plugs out white smoke came out of the cylinders, but I tried the compression test wet and got nothing.

I figured I'd test the compressor gage, and it worked fine on another car, so its not the gage.

I guess next is the cam cover, to check the timing chain.

Could bad head gasket be giving me this trouble?

DesktopDave · « **Reply #8 on:** June 21, 2010, 06:48:51 PM »

It's unlikely but not impossible that it's a bad gasket or cracked head. With every cyl having no compression, I'm figuring the chain skipped and some valves bent. I'm hoping that's not the case, but with the symptoms and the PO's description, that's my bet.

BTW, don't attempt to repair the exhaust valves. They're sodium-filled. It's very bad to let that magic get out of them. The later e36 M42 has the same head but with thinner valves. Think of it as your first upgrade.

BlueBMW · « **Reply #9 on:** June 21, 2010, 07:54:32 PM »

The good news is that replacement stock motors are somewhat plentiful and cheap it seems. Several people have been selling them for $200 to $500 running. Someone on here had one with all new timing components for $500 I think. $500 car + $500 motor + elbow grease = a great daily driver :-D

DesktopDave · « **Reply #10 on:** June 21, 2010, 08:17:57 PM »

That's why they're such a good deal.

Is that an Alpine White e34 in the background of your sig? I had an '89 with the M20 motor and the 5-speed. Great car but not as much fun as the e30.

Jesse Nystrom · « **Reply #11 on:** June 22, 2010, 02:04:00 AM »

I've been thinking about it,

if after I pull the head I find bent valves, chipped piston heads, and worn rings (It does have 184,000 Miles) I think I'm gonna do a swap.

I bought this car as a play car and a project, I already have an incredible fuel efficient and reliable daily driver (hence the need for a play car) so I'm am definitely not opposed to pulling this thing apart, or stripping it down.

It would be interesting to see what I could fit in there though.

I put a 350 small block in a Mark 3 Supra once, to replace the straight six.

I may look at some domestic options for crate engines, perhaps an LS1?

I can find a good LS1 for 2,000 dollars with low miles, and I don't think it would weigh substantially more than most swaps.

I can cash in my CD's next year for around 10,000$ which should be enough for the whole swap, my only issue right now is that I've become an apartment dweller and do not have a workshop or garage....

Or perhaps I should look towards a different engine?

jscribble · « **Reply #12 on:** June 22, 2010, 08:43:13 AM »

S14. Don't put a big fat v8 up front, it will ruin the car's handling. The weight distribution is almost perfect with the M42 up front. There are several bmw sixers that can (with some boost) put out as much or more than an ls1. If you're going to take the motor down to bits, rebuild it with some tips from metric mechanic, and make it a screamer. You will not be disappointed.

Jesse Nystrom · « **Reply #13 on:** June 22, 2010, 02:47:23 PM »

I've been looking at metric mechanics work, I wonder if they sell a rebuild kit?

That would be less hassle than trying to make the custom mounts for other engines.

Jesse Nystrom · « **Reply #14 on:** June 23, 2010, 07:54:08 PM »

Alright, The Metric Mechanic Sport Kit is 3,900$

They say its good for 160hp without a turbo, for now until I finish the rest of the car that is plenty.

The only problem is I won't have the money for a little while, and still need to find exactly whats wrong with it.

I pulled the upper intake manifold, and throttle body to get to the fuel injectors and fuel rail, I want to soak my injectors in some fuel and injector cleaner to help break up any build up that might be keeping them from making a good spray.

The problem I've run into is I cant get them or the fuel rail to come off? I've heard you disconnect them, pull the little clips under need and give a sharp tug, I'll wait for a response because I don't want to damage them.

I also pulled the cam cover to check the timing chain for tension, you said to check if they are lined up, where do they need to be positioned in order to tell if they are lined up?

One last thing, the large hoses around under the intake manifold are old and cracked, they don't fit together with a good seal anymore, what are they and should I replace them?