Author Topic: mobile1 0w 40 e30 318is  (Read 16301 times)

318lotis

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mobile1 0w 40 e30 318is
« on: May 20, 2010, 02:12:36 PM »
i drained out mobile1 10 40 high milage and then filled up on mobile1 0w 40,
my engine came alive and felt stronger, is anyone else out there using mobile1 0w 40 ??  i know the mobile1 web sight picks this oil as the best for the e30 318is.

tjts1

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mobile1 0w 40 e30 318is
« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2010, 02:20:41 PM »
Mobil1 (no 'e' at the end) 0w40 is a waste of time unless its way below freezing outside. Stick with 5w40 or heavier. Their website is wrong.
Sold but not forgotten

This is whats wrong with your car.
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2742
[/thread]

cristimm

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mobile1 0w 40 e30 318is
« Reply #2 on: May 21, 2010, 03:18:19 AM »
I use 0W40 but from a difrent brand.

Chalino

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mobile1 0w 40 e30 318is
« Reply #3 on: May 21, 2010, 03:10:46 PM »
20W50 is the way to go
1991 318is
2001 IS300

"Now, me and the mad scientist got to rip apart the block... and replace the piston rings you fried."

harvey2

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mobile1 0w 40 e30 318is
« Reply #4 on: May 21, 2010, 03:21:24 PM »
I'm going out for oil later today.  Been using Pennzoil 20w-50 but considering change to Castrol, mainly because of comments I've heard about Pennzoil.  Which oil is best (dino oil)?
\'91 318is

seeohngee

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mobile1 0w 40 e30 318is
« Reply #5 on: May 21, 2010, 11:19:30 PM »
I heard from a few people that 15w40 is best for the m42. Can anyone confirm this?

KenC

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mobile1 0w 40 e30 318is
« Reply #6 on: May 22, 2010, 10:14:48 AM »
20w50 is WAY too heavy for the m42.  You're lucky the hydraulic lifters are still functioning properly.

10w40 is what you want to use in the summer.

DesktopDave

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mobile1 0w 40 e30 318is
« Reply #7 on: May 22, 2010, 11:25:12 AM »
A lot of car manufacturers are filling with very light oils for a few more MPG.  I don't think it'd be significant to change multi-grade oils.  They all thin out at high temps and over the life of the oil.  Maybe you had a plugged filter?

Mobil1 isn't bad oil, but it's not full synthetic. Some "synthetics" are also just a high grade of mineral oil that's been expensively processed.  The fine print says "exclusive of carrier oil" or some such boiler plate.  If you want a performance boost (slight though it may be), go with Redline or another genuine Group IV PAO engine lubricant like Amsoil.  Until Group III+ hits the market (made from natural gas), Group IV is still the best for performance engines.

I haven't made up my mind about Royal Purple...not enough info, too much marketing.

I've also heard good things about Mobil Delvac, but primarily from the diesel geeks.
« Last Edit: May 22, 2010, 11:33:58 AM by DesktopDave »
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Ryann

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mobile1 0w 40 e30 318is
« Reply #8 on: May 22, 2010, 02:45:47 PM »
It depends on the climate you live in. According to BMW's recommendations 15w-50 is by far the best choice for me. My average winter lows are around 40F, summer highs around 85-90F.
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BlueBMW

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mobile1 0w 40 e30 318is
« Reply #9 on: May 22, 2010, 05:45:05 PM »
I run 5w30 synthetic and it seems to do great!  I might be wearing my motor out because its so thin but oh well.
1991 318is (Sold to brother :()
1995 530i (Daily driver til I find another 318is!)


harvey2

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mobile1 0w 40 e30 318is
« Reply #10 on: May 22, 2010, 11:06:51 PM »
They guys at AutoWest told me they like to use 15W40 in the M42.
\'91 318is

flyinglizard

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mobile1 0w 40 e30 318is
« Reply #11 on: May 25, 2010, 08:43:08 AM »
There is no reason not to use a decent synthetic.  You can run it 10000miles or more. It saves you money and down time while the engine will look like new inside forever. The 5or 10/40 Rotella cost 20$ a gal . Why would you use anything less? IMHO.
  Most of the time that shops  recommend a certain oil is that they can make some money on it.  My shop makes  very little on the Rotella.
 MM
Mike and Michael Ogren/Protech Racing Services, mogren@tampabay.rr.com
  data analysis, driver coaching, race car development. FWDracingguide.com  . Chumpcar rental
 20 years of renting race cars

DesertEagle

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mobile1 0w 40 e30 318is
« Reply #12 on: May 25, 2010, 10:45:30 AM »
A lot of people claim that switching from dino to synthetic in older cars can cause oil leaks if the engine seals are old.

Also, it concerns me when people say I use oil X.  You mean year-round?  Where do you live?  Your choice of oil weight should involve a chart like this: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/engine-gear-oil-viscosity-temperature-limits-d_1545.html

I've also been told that it's better to use a slightly lighter oil in engines with OHC like the M42.  To me, this is B.S.  When i pulled my valve cover, there was oil clinging to everything but the polished parts of the cams.  I would think that more of a heavier oil will remain on the cams, which would compensate for the slightly longer time it takes a heavier oil to get pumped up to the cams.

I don't recommend a particular oil, because I'm still learning.  I had 10w-40 in the car last winter, and I definitely won't do that again.  I think that car would have turned over just as easily filled with oatmeal.  But in the summer, 10w-40 works great.  That's pennsylvania-our winters sucks and so do our summers.

Brian318is

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mobile1 0w 40 e30 318is
« Reply #13 on: May 27, 2010, 02:14:10 PM »
I live in Bradenton, FL.. I run Amsoil 0-30 in my e30 318is m42 and my e46 325xiT.. they both work superb. The m42 was running nothing but mobil 1 for years and years, but I prefer Ams.. I made the switch and I have no complaints.

I became a member on Ams website, and I can get oil for something like %20 off regular price. They are based in Orlando, so shipping is not too bad.. I usually buy by the case and save like $20 some dollars per order.

I even run Ams in my old 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300SD.. not 0-30 though.

carguy101

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mobile1 0w 40 e30 318is
« Reply #14 on: May 27, 2010, 03:15:06 PM »
I was running the 15w40 but switched to 20w50 an it runs a lot quieter now. I live in Orlando and so far so good