Author Topic: Gas tank removal?  (Read 4166 times)

M42boy

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Gas tank removal?
« on: August 21, 2006, 10:06:54 PM »
Is it relatively easy to replace the gas tank with the Rear Subframe in the car???   I know the driveshaft would need to be removed as well as the exhaust, but wonder about the rear subframe?

sheepdog

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Gas tank removal?
« Reply #1 on: August 21, 2006, 10:32:51 PM »
This is probably the second worst job in the e30 to do (the first is replacing the oil pump).
Seriously, it is a bitch. Not the worst job I have done, but sucks non-the-less.

You will need another person helping, prefferably 2. You also really need to get the whole car off the ground, not absolutely required, but it makes it way easier. I used ramps and stands after getting annoyed with jacking one end or the other up several times. Shake the car for stability before getting under (I see lots of people who do not do this).

Be carefull as you will have an open tank, which can ignite very easily. No lights in the car and diconnect the battery before starting.

The driveshaft does have to come out, as does the exhaust, as well as the rear seat, the covers, fuel pump, lines, dirt sheilds, dust sheilds, and a crossmember or 2. The subframe stays in, it does take some fiddling about to get it in and out, but it goes.

Honestly, the worst part is the lines and header collector bolts, the worst of those being the filler line. You cannot get a good hold to remove it due to location, and it is too short to lower the tank more.

In the end I had to cut the filler hose. This led to lost of grief, it winds out into the wheel well and up a tube, which gets filled with dirt. I could not get it out, in the end, I cut the last 4 inches off of it at the tank and put in a 6 inch peice of copper tubing (to which I attached a grounding wire) and then replaces the last few inches of rubber to make it long enough again. I also ended up replacing the collector bolts (which are welded in place). If you do the copper thing, use a grounding wire (or else!).

Take pictures of how the lines go, draw diagrams, etc... There are 3 (I think) that go into the top of the tank, one on the drivers side and the filler tube. Use wires and coat hangers to hang them in place. Hopefully somewhat in the proper order.


Shop around for your tank. Some places want $600, I got mine for $145 with free 2 day air.

Make sure to put in new guibo bolts, I did not and after a trip across 2 states and back a bolt fell out and trashed the guibo. You may want to do the C.S.B. while you are there as well.

Also, pre order the tank crossover tube. You will not likely be able to save yours. Check realoem.com for the part number as the local dealer will have absolutely no f'ing clue what you are talking about. Do not forget a new header collector gasket as well.

It gets expensive as you start doing all of the other random stuf, but a lot of this is a hassle to do if you only have the one thing to do.

I also got some undercoating to cover the tank with hopes of adding some extra rust protection. Do not do this where the exhaust passes, undercoating can ignite. I used normal paint there. Anything to keep from doing this again anytime soon.


Sorry for how random this is, but it is as I remember it. Not a how-to.
It is not fun and is a lot of work.

If you have more questions just ask.


I would rather do 2 steering racks, a power steering pump, and an alignment than do the gas tank again.
« Last Edit: August 21, 2006, 10:43:27 PM by sheepdog »
"When trouble arises and things look bad, there is always one individual who perceives a solution and is willing to take command. Very often, that individual is crazy." --Dave Berry

M42boy

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Gas tank removal?
« Reply #2 on: August 21, 2006, 11:49:14 PM »
Well, I have a new (rebuilt) driveshaft to install, a new guibo, new guibo nuts and bolts, etc.  The car is up on 4 jack stands and the exhaust and all the heat shielding is already removed...  Hence, why I think it might be easiest to tackle this job NOW!  

My tank was bent by some gorilla who tried to jack up the car with it.  It's not totally ruined (still works fine and nothing rusting though or anything), but figure it's something that HAS to get done.  

I've got a parts car with a perfect tank in it...   It's old, but I figure it won't cost me anything.  

I've got an order going out for some new mounting hardware and some new mounting brackets for the tank.  I fugure I'll just use the tank off the parts car unless there's some pressing reason why I shouldn't.  I'm ordering a new filler hose (the lower one that goes into the tank) and new hose clamps, etc.

I've been looking at this image...
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF93&mospid=47305&btnr=16_0107&hg=16&fg=10

I just wonder what in there I should be ordering..   What is the cross-over tube you speak of.  If you can identify the #'s in that image I should replace, that would be a big help.

sheepdog

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Gas tank removal?
« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2006, 12:54:02 PM »
Quote from: M42boy
Well, I have a new (rebuilt) driveshaft to install, a new guibo, new guibo nuts and bolts, etc.  The car is up on 4 jack stands and the exhaust and all the heat shielding is already removed...  Hence, why I think it might be easiest to tackle this job NOW!  

My tank was bent by some gorilla who tried to jack up the car with it.  It's not totally ruined (still works fine and nothing rusting though or anything), but figure it's something that HAS to get done.  

I've got a parts car with a perfect tank in it...   It's old, but I figure it won't cost me anything.  

I've got an order going out for some new mounting hardware and some new mounting brackets for the tank.  I fugure I'll just use the tank off the parts car unless there's some pressing reason why I shouldn't.  I'm ordering a new filler hose (the lower one that goes into the tank) and new hose clamps, etc.

I've been looking at this image...
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF93&mospid=47305&btnr=16_0107&hg=16&fg=10

I just wonder what in there I should be ordering..   What is the cross-over tube you speak of.  If you can identify the #'s in that image I should replace, that would be a big help.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF93&mospid=47305&btnr=16_0046&hg=16&fg=05
#4 is the part I was reffering to. It does not come with a new tank. They rust in place.

Honestly, if you are going to pull the tank, I would use a new one. It is clean, absolutely no rust, and in prestine shape. When mine went bad, it visually looked ok but it had rusted from the inside out along the seems.

It also had eaten through the return tube running across the top of the tank (part of the tank itself).

Make sure you check the other tank very carefully if you intend to use it. A lot of e30 tanks are going bad now.




After looking at the picture you posted, it is not the filler hose that is a bitch, it is hose #5 on your picture that is a pain.
« Last Edit: August 22, 2006, 12:56:20 PM by sheepdog »
"When trouble arises and things look bad, there is always one individual who perceives a solution and is willing to take command. Very often, that individual is crazy." --Dave Berry

M42boy

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Gas tank removal?
« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2006, 09:32:42 PM »
Why do you have to replace the #4 (Connection Pipe)?  It's made out of copper and even on my midwest rustbucket, it is in good shape.  Heck it may not be pretty, but I don't see any signs of abnormal decay.

Hmm, I think I will replace all those hoses on the top.  Ah, I would replace the tank, but they are like $350.  To be honest, I don't want to spend another f'ing dime on this piece of $hit.  I just want to get it back on the road so I can drive the piss out of it on the track and then save up and buy another Audi S-car.  

The other tank is at least straight.  I will visually inspect to make sure there isn't any abnormal corrosion from the inside before I install it, however.

sheepdog

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Gas tank removal?
« Reply #5 on: August 23, 2006, 09:55:35 PM »
Quote from: M42boy
Why do you have to replace the #4 (Connection Pipe)?  It's made out of copper and even on my midwest rustbucket, it is in good shape.  Heck it may not be pretty, but I don't see any signs of abnormal decay.

Hmm, I think I will replace all those hoses on the top.  Ah, I would replace the tank, but they are like $350.  To be honest, I don't want to spend another f'ing dime on this piece of $hit.  I just want to get it back on the road so I can drive the piss out of it on the track and then save up and buy another Audi S-car.  

The other tank is at least straight.  I will visually inspect to make sure there isn't any abnormal corrosion from the inside before I install it, however.
?
No, you have to disconnect it from the tank, and at least in the case of mine, it was on so tight and sits in such a tight location that it can be nearly impossible to remove.

I ended up cutting mine and because I could not get the old hose out, I used a peice of copper pipe to extend what was left. The actual tube is rubber.

I am pretty sure the oen I am refferingto is #4 in that picture.


And liek I said, my tank new was $140 with shipping.
"When trouble arises and things look bad, there is always one individual who perceives a solution and is willing to take command. Very often, that individual is crazy." --Dave Berry

M42boy

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Gas tank removal?
« Reply #6 on: August 24, 2006, 07:45:18 PM »
Quote from: sheepdog
?
No, you have to disconnect it from the tank, and at least in the case of mine, it was on so tight and sits in such a tight location that it can be nearly impossible to remove.

I ended up cutting mine and because I could not get the old hose out, I used a peice of copper pipe to extend what was left. The actual tube is rubber.

I am pretty sure the oen I am refferingto is #4 in that picture.


And liek I said, my tank new was $140 with shipping.

Where did you get a new tank for $140 with shipping.  That's a bargain.  Is it an OEM part?  I'm pretty sure Bav Autosport wants $350 for the same part and they are usually pretty close in price most of the time.

sheepdog

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Gas tank removal?
« Reply #7 on: August 24, 2006, 11:35:33 PM »
Quote from: M42boy
Where did you get a new tank for $140 with shipping.  That's a bargain.  Is it an OEM part?  I'm pretty sure Bav Autosport wants $350 for the same part and they are usually pretty close in price most of the time.

Not oem, but still not a bad tank, especialy for the savings.
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/GasTanks/

Looks like they may have dropped our tank. Price went up some as well.
But like I said, look around.
"When trouble arises and things look bad, there is always one individual who perceives a solution and is willing to take command. Very often, that individual is crazy." --Dave Berry

M42boy

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« Reply #8 on: August 25, 2006, 09:29:30 AM »
Is this the tank??

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/GasTanks/BMW/3Series/BM1B/8188

I didn't see a specific listing for a 318i or 318iS, but looks like the same part as the M3 and 325i Cabrio.  

Looks like the price went up to $175 plus $35 shipping..  But, still not bad when compared to new BMW price.  

I'll pull the tank on my parts car this weekend and inspect it.  If it's no good, I'll go this route.  Otherwise, I'll use what I've got.

sheepdog

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« Reply #9 on: August 26, 2006, 01:22:05 PM »
Quote from: M42boy
Is this the tank??

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/GasTanks/BMW/3Series/BM1B/8188

I didn't see a specific listing for a 318i or 318iS, but looks like the same part as the M3 and 325i Cabrio.  

Looks like the price went up to $175 plus $35 shipping..  But, still not bad when compared to new BMW price.  

I'll pull the tank on my parts car this weekend and inspect it.  If it's no good, I'll go this route.  Otherwise, I'll use what I've got.

Good thinking trying the vert, but it will not work. They are actualy quite different tanks based on RealOem.com. Different senders, openings and such.
"When trouble arises and things look bad, there is always one individual who perceives a solution and is willing to take command. Very often, that individual is crazy." --Dave Berry