Author Topic: Timing chain question (91 318iS) (Read 6361 times)

B318M42W · « **Reply #15 on:** February 18, 2010, 09:48:40 PM »

the "winding" sound is normal. New chain guides will cause that winding/whining. i find it is the loudest at about 2300-3000 rpm. The new tensioner should amplify the sound.

flyinglizard · « **Reply #16 on:** February 19, 2010, 08:46:44 AM »

Ditto on the whine. The new guides look like a hard plastic. The old ones look like a hard rubber and maybe were quieter.
The clutch may have some slack in the Dual mass. It is a rubber hub that will gain some movement over use. Sometimes you have to diegrind the holes to get to the bolts. Many DMF, have a little wind up when you let out the clutch. IMHO. MM

arcter · « **Reply #17 on:** February 19, 2010, 08:51:11 PM »

Thanks guys. Okay, I have two more things to ask about.

For months now, before this happened, I've had some rough cold start issues as well as a low-dipping idle. Any time the car is cold, basically, it starts rough and if I don't give it gas it'll fall really low, almost feeling like it'll stall. If I give it gas for a couple seconds, it's fine. The past couple days I've had it happen worse than before but it's basically the same. Mechanic said it's probably the fuel injectors?

The other thing is when I'm driving, and it seems to get in moods when it wants to do it. When I'm driving and I push in the clutch and let the revs fall to idle, it'll dip low and start to shake. Usually not very low but low enough to make it rumble a little. It'll then correct itself and idle fine. I've had this since before the timing chain problem too, and the mechanic has been pointed to it several times but all he's ever said is might have something to do with the throttle cable, and he's adjusted the idle a few times but to no avail. Any ideas?

Car seems to be running quite well other than these problems!

318is808 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 21, 2010, 07:51:55 PM »

I have a 91 is that has a similar low/stalling idel. My son now drives the car so I have not been able to isolate the problem. I believe it is from a vaccum leak. Does you check engine light come on? His does, but when I test drive it, I am not always able to duplicate the idle problem. I have all the new vaccum hoses, but just have not had time to replace these original hoses. Most of the vaccum hoses are under or hiding under the intake so hard to detect where the vaccum leak might be.
:confused:

Norm

Ryann · « **Reply #19 on:** February 21, 2010, 11:31:38 PM »

My M42's new to me but I've been down the Bosch fuel injection road with 80's era SAAB 900 Turbos (Bosch LH) and I'd tend to suspect your Air Idle Control Valve and related hoses.

Choking Hazard · « **Reply #20 on:** February 25, 2010, 01:46:10 PM »

I just found a MAJOR leak where the FI body attaches to the upper manifold. I Just tightened the bolts on the black 318 after re-installing the FI on the white 318, really as a way to delay the rest of the work I still need to do on that car. I'm looking at the hose routing in the black car, socket in hand, and decided to snug the FI body down. Shee-it, that bolt was loose. And look, this one is MISSING. 3 out of 4 were not secure. OK, fixed it up and resolved all kinds of poor running issues. So, look there for a leak also, not just the vac lines.

dinu.negrean · « **Reply #21 on:** February 27, 2010, 04:57:26 PM »

http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11009

Please watch the firs movie with the idle in cold start. If your problem is the same, it may be the timing or of course the damn vacum leaks. The next week I will have all the tools necessary for the job and start with the intake: all the gaskets brand new + replacement of all vacum tubes in hard plastic with ruber connection at each end, i have found some great ones at the parts shop. The injectors have already been checked.

After this, I will adjust the timing, I shall have the cam locking tool and flywheel pin done by next week.

If your problem is the same as mine, read the post so you can see what I have tried.

arcter · « **Reply #22 on:** February 27, 2010, 10:58:25 PM »

Well it turned out my cold start roughness was caused by one of the cylinders not getting the right spark. So we changed the ignition coils and whatnot and that's solved. I also fixed a couple of leaking hoses connected to the ICV and the idle problem is a lot better, though when it's cold it does tend to dip down a little bit sometimes but it's much better than it was.