Author Topic: Pre-purchase inspection results. (Read 3094 times)

AtlBMW · « **on:** February 05, 2010, 06:11:18 AM »

E30 noob but have own several BMW's just not this old.
Been reading for a while and so much to learn. About to buy a 92 vert from out of state and had the car inspected. The shop sent me the following list. Any input regarding the cost and severity of some of these thing would be much appreciated.

1. Headlight - Driver's inner - A bit of water (condensation) but still working.

2. Reverse light out

3. Slight radiator leak

4. Front main seal leaking oil (typical due to age)

5. Oil pan leaking oil (typical due to age)

6. Airbox intake hose cracked

7. Transmission output seal leaking

8. Minor rear bumper damage

9. Right control arm bushing cracked.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #1 on:** February 05, 2010, 07:14:43 AM »

Sounds so typical. Mine looked almost exactly like that...still does, in many ways.

dvmotorsports · « **Reply #2 on:** February 05, 2010, 11:44:08 AM »

Quote from: AtlBMW;86711

E30 noob but have own several BMW's just not this old.
Been reading for a while and so much to learn. About to buy a 92 vert from out of state and had the car inspected. The shop sent me the following list. Any input regarding the cost and severity of some of these thing would be much appreciated.

1. Headlight - Driver's inner - A bit of water (condensation) but still working.

2. Reverse light out

3. Slight radiator leak

4. Front main seal leaking oil (typical due to age)

5. Oil pan leaking oil (typical due to age)

6. Airbox intake hose cracked

7. Transmission output seal leaking

8. Minor rear bumper damage

9. Right control arm bushing cracked.

1. Fuck it

2. Buy a $3.00 bulb

3. Address that before summer for sure

4. Typical, but do it if it's severe

5. Upper or lower or both are leaking?

6. $30 at the dealer or SAMCO makes an indestructible replacement

7. Soooooo easy to fix

8. Who cares

9. Fix it if you are doing track days

But this all sounds normal for any E30

KenC · « **Reply #3 on:** February 05, 2010, 01:23:40 PM »

Oil filter housing leaks are often mistaken for a front main leak. Both are pretty easy to replace.

Lower oil pan leak = piece of cake. Upper oil pan leak = total biatch.

AtlBMW · « **Reply #4 on:** February 05, 2010, 02:45:49 PM »

Thanks, that is what I thought but even better to hear it here.
One more thing that I was aware of prior to the inspection, seized AC compressor. Now I know AC on a vert, just delete the damn thing. But this is GA and you what the say about Georgia asphalt in August.

AC doesn't sound like a DIY. I do have another used compressor. What would you expect it will cost at the local shop?

DesktopDave · « **Reply #5 on:** February 05, 2010, 03:27:44 PM »

Are you sure it's siezed? The system won't clutch if the refrigerant pressure is low.

Def do an R134 upgrade...I'm told that the Seiko compressor can take R134 if you replace the oil. I've also heard that it needs some o-rings, a new dryer and a different pressure switch. I might try it out later this year.

KenC · « **Reply #6 on:** February 05, 2010, 03:28:17 PM »

A/C work isn't cheap. You'll have to convert it to r134a.

Make sure it's seized. If it's just low, buy a conversion kit and go at it... Not the best solution, but it will work.

AtlBMW · « **Reply #7 on:** February 05, 2010, 03:35:04 PM »

I believe it has been converted. The seller (female) had the current used but not rebuilt compressor instaled and shortly after that, the new belt snapped.

dvmotorsports · « **Reply #8 on:** February 05, 2010, 03:46:14 PM »

Quote from: DesktopDave;86753

Are you sure it's siezed? The system won't clutch if the refrigerant pressure is low.

Def do an R134 upgrade...I'm told that the Seiko compressor can take R134 if you replace the oil. I've also heard that it needs some o-rings, a new dryer and a different pressure switch. I might try it out later this year.

C'mon Dave. Every seal has to be replaced when a 134 upgrade is done. Isn't worth it. And 134 isn't as efficient.

Quote from: KenCopperwheat;86754

A/C work isn't cheap. You'll have to convert it to r134a.

Make sure it's seized. If it's just low, buy a conversion kit and go at it... Not the best solution, but it will work.

He won't have to convert. R12 can still be found legally. You just can't DIY unless you are licensed.

Quote from: AtlBMW;86757

I believe it has been converted. The seller (female) had the current used but not rebuilt compressor instaled and shortly after that, the new belt snapped.

There should be a conversion sticker in the engine bay or under the hood then.

AtlBMW · « **Reply #9 on:** February 05, 2010, 08:06:18 PM »

Quote from: dvmotorsports;86758

C'mon Dave. Every seal has to be replaced when a 134 upgrade is done. Isn't worth it. And 134 isn't as efficient.

He won't have to convert. R12 can still be found legally. You just can't DIY unless you are licensed.

There should be a conversion sticker in the engine bay or under the hood then.

Interesting, will a AC repair place have R12?
If the compressor is shot, can I just replace the just the compressor if I don't convert?

dvmotorsports · « **Reply #10 on:** February 07, 2010, 05:10:47 PM »

Yes, licensed AC shops should carry R12. And if the compressor is toast, replace an recharge. No need to convert.