Author Topic: Power Steering Overhaul (Read 4369 times)

ecalder · « **on:** January 30, 2010, 09:55:29 AM »

Moving on to my next project...

My power steering is a mess. My rack leaks and my pump squeals like crazy on a cold day and then makes an uncomfortable groaning sound for a few minutes after starting the engine. I would like to take everything apart and start over with a fresh system that I theoretically would not have to deal with for a long time.

I spent some time on realoem looking for everything I would need to overhaul the system, I was thinking I'd replace everything with new (or used but in good condition parts) and quickly ended up with a pretty expensive parts list. I'm wondering if you all could give me some advice as to what I can likely keep.

Starting with the pump. It is unhappy. Is it because my rack is shot? When I replace the rack it will be happy again? Or do I likely need to replace it. How can I tell if my pump is shot? The belt is new and when I press against it it only moves about 1/4" like I've read on the forums to be the correct tension. I don't mind putting a new pump in there, especially if I can get it for a decent price (anybody have a nice PS pump they're looking to get rid of for cheap?).

The hoses and pipes turn out to be pretty pricey too! I'll inspect them when I take out the rack, but I'm wondering if there are no holes in the hoses or pipes can they be reused comfortably or are they something that need to be swapped out eventually too?

I already have a new resevoir, new(er) rack that is promised not to leak, new tie rod assemblies, boots, clamps, and crush washers. I saw on pelicanparts that there is a gasket set for $66, do I need this?

I'm looking for advice as to what parts should be replaced since I'm going to have everything taken apart and what parts should be salvageable. Once I replace everything I'd love to be able to forget about it for a while...

Thanks!

monty23psk · « **Reply #1 on:** January 30, 2010, 12:43:00 PM »

The pump could be on its way out but if it is low on fluid you it will heat up and die out faster. If the level is low, the pump will just make noise. So you have to stop the leak to really check the pump. Also make sure you are using the correct fluid...ATF, not regular power steering fluid. You can remove the belt and wiggle the pulley and see if you have play. If it was me and I had your parts, I would first clean all the hoses and their connections and fill up the system. Run it a little while, maybe a few days and see where it is wet to see which hose is leaking and only replace those. If you are leaking at the connections, it could just be the oring/washers. Then replace the rack and tie rods. Also the other parts. Remove all the hoses and clean them very well and only replace the ones you need. Then see if the pump makes the noises, you can remove it and it is not hard. You then can try to have it rebuilt or just get another new or used one.

ecalder · « **Reply #2 on:** January 30, 2010, 02:38:24 PM »

Thanks Monty, that's good information.

I've kept the fluid topped off (ATF), refilling it once every few days so at least there's been fluid in there. So I'll drain the system and disconnect the hoses and see how that works out.

I guess I was worried that if my pump is bad it could damage my new rack.

I'll get back to on here once I've started taking everything apart. I just wanted to get a head start in case I was going to need to order anything ahead of time.

Thanks again!

tjts1 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 30, 2010, 02:48:01 PM »

Ditch the PS. You'll be happy.

Choking Hazard · « **Reply #4 on:** January 30, 2010, 04:24:43 PM »

http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=66247&highlight=e36+rack

ecalder · « **Reply #5 on:** January 30, 2010, 07:10:06 PM »

I'd love to ditch the power steering! But I want to know how it feels first. If I want to try it do I just remove the PS belt? Will that give me the same effect? Also, I can't upgrade my rack because it will put me in another class for AutoX, so is it a bad idea to go without PS with the standard 4 turn lock to lock rack? Do I need a non-power rack or will my new(er) rack be fine? I guess I'd have to cap some places where the hoses go and eliminate the resevoir altogether. I hear I would even pick up a couple of HP!

I'm completely willing to give it a shot as long as I can always go back to PS in case I don't like it.

Thanks...

DesktopDave · « **Reply #6 on:** January 30, 2010, 07:29:52 PM »

I pulled my P/S belt and drained the rack/reservoir/pump. If you don't drain the P/S (ATF) fluid the steering will be pretty heavy. After draining the system is heavy at slow speeds but not unmanageable. Over 10mph it feels better, more direct. I do get slightly more bump feedback though the wheel though. Nothing unpleasant, but noticeable.

It's all still there in case I want to fill it back up, but my rack seals are gone like everyone else's. Overhauls are expensive it seems, especially when e36 racks are so cheap. Too bad about that autox ruling. Wonder how they'd know?

ecalder · « **Reply #7 on:** January 30, 2010, 07:31:32 PM »

OK One more thing...

Since I posted I've been reading up about the power steering delete. People were posting about "hydrolock" that can happen when you drive over a puddle. Can anyone please explain what that is? Also why does this happen when you delete power steering but not with the PS system in place? Do I need to worry about this?

Thanks again.

ecalder · « **Reply #8 on:** January 30, 2010, 07:37:56 PM »

Hi Dave,

OK so if I simply remove the belt and I'm ok with it like that then when I completely delete the system it will be less tough still?

Also I'm confused about draining the system. After deleting power steering you leave the rack dry? My rack leaks pretty bad which is why I was replacing it in the first place, so you're saying that if I delete the power steering I can keep the same rack in the car? Does it not need any lubrication?

I'm sure the only way they'd know about the upgraded rack at AutoX is if they counted the turns and I'm sure they would't take the time to do that. So maybe I will swap the rack. I race in the same class as some friends I guess I'll feel them out for what they think about that.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #9 on:** January 30, 2010, 08:26:16 PM »

The ATF is not a lubricant, just hydraulic fluid. The rack & pinion is separately lubricated.

So you'll have to drain it. The rack has a switch that uses pump pressure to boost an assist piston back & forth.

If you pull the pump & leave the fluid you'll be pushing the piston back & forth through a full chamber of ATF. When you drain the ATF the steering is still heavy at low speed, but it'll rapidly ease up as the car rolls.

4banger · « **Reply #10 on:** January 30, 2010, 08:32:28 PM »

if you end up needing a pump let me know. ive got a few spares.

dvmotorsports · « **Reply #11 on:** January 30, 2010, 11:54:58 PM »

I'm not reading all this shit.

Here what is most important. If you open that rack and even score anything behind the seals, you're fucked. Your whole overhaul will be a waste.

Just an FYI