Author Topic: Need help and suggestions (Read 5863 times)

Ramblin MAn · « **on:** December 06, 2009, 04:50:22 PM »

Already whined about it in my personal log thread, but after replacing my control arms my problems are still there and I'm assuming it's a blown Strut/struts.:mad:

Originally thought it was bad ball joints. Wheels would waggle and clunk going over small bumps. That's always been ball joints in my past.

Once I was in the middle of the control arm replacement I noticed the sticky oil all over the inside of the right front strut housing. A drive today and it drives exactly the same as before. Very upsetting. I'm thinking the right side front and rear is blown because I don't really have any damping except for rebound as when the car goes over bumps it sort of drops like I've driven into a hole and slowly comes back up.

So now I'm looking at struts and shocks and tips on the job.

I need suggestions on what to put in. I want supple yet firm. I want tracking over small bumps and ripples without a lot of negative feedback from the road. I have a track car and I don't want that. Firm is good, but I don't want harsh.

OEM replacements would probably be fine, but since these are blown I can't say for sure. Which is where you guys come in. Please post up as I need to order the replacements ASAP.

Also, I'm in this deep, tell me about any associated parts I need to be looking at. I noticed that I should have replaced my front sway bar bushings and will when I do the struts. Guess I need to do the same in back.

What else?

quinn11m20 · « **Reply #1 on:** December 06, 2009, 06:45:25 PM »

I know where your at I just had mine replaced. My upper struts where squeaking and chirping when I would make a turn, usually slow. Went to the local German garage and come to find out it was the RH side outer ball bearing too. It was so bad that the ball came out of the socket. They replaced it and now I have to get an alignment. Before the car tracked fine. But I didn't know that the ball joint was toast and that is a serious safety issue. Personally I wanted some adjustable ones but I don't track the car that often, so I kept with the originals.
There are lots of after market camber adjustment parts out there, I would suggest choose wisely. Good luck. Tony.

Ramblin MAn · « **Reply #2 on:** December 06, 2009, 10:17:31 PM »

Choose wisely. Good advice. I seem to be making a lot of stupid decisions lately.

I've decided on heavy duty bilstiens for shocks and struts. I'll replace the rear upper shock mounts with the meyle heavy duty mounts. Rear end links will be off the shelf as will be the sway bar bushings. That leaves front strut mounts. I have the M3 CABs do I need adjustable strut mounts? I don't need the expense.

The car won't be lowered. Or tracked.

Ramblin MAn · « **Reply #3 on:** December 07, 2009, 11:43:58 AM »

I have a question for those that have done it.

Do I need to remove the strut from control arm to have enough clearance to get the strut insert out? Or is there enough room to leave it on?

The thought of removing the control arm from the strut is killing me since they were just installed and the thought of any kind of hammering scares the hell out of me. I know if I try to use any kind of fork tool I will just end up tearing the boots. The brand new boots.

Ohhhh the Agony!!!

The Pelican article doesn't say anything about removing the strut from the control arm. Just the tie rod end and the sway bar end link. I figured if I unbolted the popsicle that would give me extra room but I want to hear from someone that has done it.

2761377 · « **Reply #4 on:** December 07, 2009, 12:51:08 PM »

from my experience (july 2009), i don't see how you could replace the front inserts without removing the struts from the car. my car had all original stuff; the springs require insane amount of compression to remove. aftermarket may be a different story but i would plan on taking those struts all the way off. which is factory/bentley recommended.

buy quality mounts- i bought a set of rear mounts from deutscheparts that blew out within 500 miles, no shit. my bmw tech who has raced e30 m3's in J-stock turned me onto american made units of totally different construction- sorry but i can't remember the name. he sold them to me for $30 each. he considers meyle stuff pure junk.

fwiw, i come from the '02 background/cult and have done struts/springs all around on 2 of those cars. in each case i WAS able to leave the strut attached to the car. so i understand the convenience of that idea and was expecting to accomplish the same on my e30. no such luck.

hth,
robert w.

Quote from: Ramblin MAn;82608

I have a question for those that have done it.

Do I need to remove the strut from control arm to have enough clearance to get the strut insert out? Or is there enough room to leave it on?

The thought of removing the control arm from the strut is killing me since they were just installed and the thought of any kind of hammering scares the hell out of me. I know if I try to use any kind of fork tool I will just end up tearing the boots. The brand new boots.

Ohhhh the Agony!!!

The Pelican article doesn't say anything about removing the strut from the control arm. Just the tie rod end and the sway bar end link. I figured if I unbolted the popsicle that would give me extra room but I want to hear from someone that has done it.

Ramblin MAn · « **Reply #5 on:** December 07, 2009, 08:24:23 PM »

OK Guys/Gals I need opinions.

Bilstein HD or Tuoring?

The car will retain its stock springs. What I'm looking for is a firmer alternative to stock but not harsh.

I have tuorings on my SAAB, but it's lowered an inch and the Tuorings are under damped on the hilly Cincinnati terrain. But, with the extra travel the tuorings may be OK. I won't be pushing this car. But I want it to handle decent.

I need opinions as I need to order ASAP.

P. Kennedy · « **Reply #6 on:** December 07, 2009, 08:57:27 PM »

I vote Koni's

2761377 · « **Reply #7 on:** December 08, 2009, 06:14:00 PM »

on the FS forum of this site, MR 325 is selling a great set-up for poco dinero. bilstein HD's and oem e30 m3 springs-... no affiliation.

i'm not sure why bilstein even bothers with the touring line- monroe's might be better. the discussion is usually HD's v sports.

imo

robert w.

Quote from: Ramblin MAn;82615

OK Guys/Gals I need opinions.

Bilstein HD or Tuoring?

The car will retain its stock springs. What I'm looking for is a firmer alternative to stock but not harsh.

I have tuorings on my SAAB, but it's lowered an inch and the Tuorings are under damped on the hilly Cincinnati terrain. But, with the extra travel the tuorings may be OK. I won't be pushing this car. But I want it to handle decent.

I need opinions as I need to order ASAP.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #8 on:** December 08, 2009, 06:22:18 PM »

Quote from: Ramblin MAn;82608

I have a question for those that have done it.

Do I need to remove the strut from control arm to have enough clearance to get the strut insert out? Or is there enough room to leave it on?

The thought of removing the control arm from the strut is killing me since they were just installed and the thought of any kind of hammering scares the hell out of me. I know if I try to use any kind of fork tool I will just end up tearing the boots. The brand new boots.

Ohhhh the Agony!!!

The Pelican article doesn't say anything about removing the strut from the control arm. Just the tie rod end and the sway bar end link. I figured if I unbolted the popsicle that would give me extra room but I want to hear from someone that has done it.

I haven't done this on the e30 myself yet, but I was thinking about using a gear puller instead of a pickle fork to drive the ball joint stud out of the strut housing. I have pulled arms from all sorts of other cars though...and even a few unfortunate spiders & flies (I was young though). So I'll call myself an expert.

Alternatively, take off the nut, reverse it & put it back on the top of the ball joint stud, put a 3' prybar on top of the arm (wedged under the frame member), then smack the stud & nut with a small sledge or big hammer while you're putting weight on the pry bar. It'll eventually come loose, trust me. Don't damage the stud or you'll need a tap & die set to re-cut the threads.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #9 on:** December 08, 2009, 06:31:52 PM »

Quote from: 2761377;82609

buy quality mounts- i bought a set of rear mounts from deutscheparts that blew out within 500 miles, no shit. my bmw tech who has raced e30 m3's in J-stock turned me onto american made units of totally different construction- sorry but i can't remember the name. he sold them to me for $30 each. he considers meyle stuff pure junk.

I agree...can you find out the name of these parts? I've had very mixed luck with Meyle & I don't have the cash for Lemfoerder.

Ramblin MAn · « **Reply #10 on:** December 08, 2009, 07:57:50 PM »

The Meyle HD mounts are supposed to be better. They look beefier anyway.

But here is my real problem:
The reason I replaced my control arms was a knocking making it all the way to my hands through the steering wheel when going over small sharp bumps. It felt like a combination of sloppy tie rods and ball joints and the wheel would shake so violently I went ahead and put new control arms and bushings. I had the tie rod off to put a new boot on and it was fine. All of this had no effect.

So, I had to bring my cars home today and I had a friend drive the e30 and he's got me second guessing struts and shocks as the culprit, but I will replace them anyway.

My question, is what besides tie rods and ball joints would cause a hammering in the steering wheel going over bumps? There is no slop in the steering left to right and when I had the car alligned before replacing the control arms they said it alligned just fine. Over smooth pavement everything seems fine.

Something is not right though. I'm ordering front and rear mounts, new sway bar bushings, front and rear shocks.

I'm just wondering if I'm missing something. Something stupid, easy and free.

The rack does not leak FYI.

2761377 · « **Reply #11 on:** December 09, 2009, 04:31:44 PM »

on my original 1990 control arms, the ball joint studs needed a couple taps from my 2# single jack and were out. the inners even showed about an inch of rust on the shank. i'm sure with his recently done ball joints, elf-like taps would get them out. definitely protect the threads with a nut. re-install with the shanks coated with anti-sieze.

re rear shock mounts- i will swing by my guys' shop tomorrow and see if he can hook you up. i'm sure i got a bro deal, your price may differ.

hth
robert w.

Quote from: DesktopDave;82652

I haven't done this on the e30 myself yet, but I was thinking about using a gear puller instead of a pickle fork to drive the ball joint stud out of the strut housing.

nigel · « **Reply #12 on:** December 09, 2009, 08:44:25 PM »

I picked up a set of bimmerworld's rear strut mounts a while back. They've been great, and I think they were only $30. They've a lifetime guarantee, too.

Ramblin MAn · « **Reply #13 on:** December 10, 2009, 08:37:18 AM »

Quote

re rear shock mounts- i will swing by my guys' shop tomorrow and see if he can hook you up. i'm sure i got a bro deal, your price may differ.

hth
robert w.

Sweeeet. Send me a pm if you are able to hook me up. I want to get my order in today. I'm talking to Yves at BMA and he is giving me unbeatable prices. So one way or the other I will want to get my order in with him. No point in ordering the rear mounts from two people.

2761377 · « **Reply #14 on:** December 10, 2009, 10:48:41 AM »

here's linky-

http://www.eurosportdesign.com/p-1484-bmw-e30e36e46-rear-shock-tower-mounts.aspx

didn't get the bro deal after all, apparently

Quote from: DesktopDave;82653

I agree...can you find out the name of these parts? I've had very mixed luck with Meyle & I don't have the cash for Lemfoerder.