Author Topic: Head Gasket Replacement (Read 6285 times)

longms · « **on:** December 06, 2009, 01:26:10 PM »

I found some coolant in the oil. I am really assuming this is head gasket job. I am considering two things really: having someone do the job or doing it myself. How much would this cost to have a mechanic do the job? How long would this take and how much would I be spending to do it myself??

This car is possessed by satan himself and tries everything to keep itself off the road.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #1 on:** December 06, 2009, 03:00:26 PM »

Do it yourself. It's not that hard, takes a weekend tops & only needs a few special tools. I've done them in the backyard. A replacement gasket set is less than $200 and it'll be good for years. I'll bet head gasket repair from an indie shop might be in the $800 range, maybe double that from BMW. Call around, maybe you'll get a deal. Find a BMW specialist if you don't have one yet.

I'd also be concerned if there was a lot of coolant in the oil or if it was there for a while...in that case I'd be looking for a good salvage yard motor & rebuild this one.

Also make sure the head isn't warped after you get it apart.

longms · « **Reply #2 on:** December 06, 2009, 03:05:42 PM »

I check oil very frequently and it literally just happened this morning. What are all the specialty tools I might need? I don't have a torque wrench and I know I will need one of those.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #3 on:** December 06, 2009, 03:37:27 PM »

I haven't done an M42 yet, maybe someone who has will chime in. I can't think it's that much different than other cars, just easier because of how small & accessible the engine is. I sold a nice Nissan Quest in great shape because I didn't want to replace the rear head gasket! Mechanic quoted me $1700 to fix it. My brother-in-law used Bar's StopLeak to keep it running for another year until he junked it.

Yeah, absolutely a decent 1/2" click-type torque wrench, 0-100 ft-lb range. Its long arm will help loosen any stubborn bolts too. You'll need some 12-point sockets for the head bolts, maybe 17MM?

To lock the cams together get two medium adjustable wrenches & vice-grip clamping pliers from Harbor Freight. I like those magnetic tool trays too. I can't think of anything else exotic you'd need.

Gasket scrapers are nice too, but not totally necessary. You might need a torch for the exhaust studs, at least have a lot of PB Blaster or WD40 on hand. Soak them well, and repeat for a two or three days like any exhaust work.

I'd use anti-sieze on the new head bolts for a more accurate torquing, but you'll likely get all kinds of opinions on that...I like the copper stuff, any car store should have something similar. A little goes a long way...you can use what's left on wheel bolts & brakes after you button up the engine.

longms · « **Reply #4 on:** December 06, 2009, 07:22:46 PM »

I am going to look into it and see what kind of an estimate I can find. There are a couple of decent import places around here. Otherwise I am going to try and do it here by myself. Just don't want to have to do it in the cold.

longms · « **Reply #5 on:** December 07, 2009, 07:12:25 AM »

One more question...can I remove the head without removing the cams???

monko141 · « **Reply #6 on:** December 07, 2009, 10:16:58 AM »

I wouldn't attempt it without an e36 Bentley. Also, unbolt the header from the lower flange and pull it along with the head.

longms · « **Reply #7 on:** December 07, 2009, 10:27:13 AM »

I have the chilton but there are a million DIY's and I can look up torque specs.

dj91318is · « **Reply #8 on:** December 07, 2009, 10:46:31 AM »

I am abought to to the same. Head Gasket replacement.

Can you remove the head without removing the cams???

Ramblin MAn · « **Reply #9 on:** December 07, 2009, 11:16:38 AM »

Cams are in the way of the head bolts I think.

Are you sure you have coolant and not just some condensation? The reason I ask is it has gotten cold here and I could immagine under the right circumstances, like say you ran it for a few minutes and then shut it off then came back the next day and checked your oil you might have some condensation showing on the dipstick. Especially if it was wet out and you were just moving your car from the street to the garage or something like that. All that air that goes through the ICV goes right into your valve cover. If it's wet out the moisture will condense out right into your cold oil on it's way to the throttle body. If you don't let the car warm up all the way it won't "boil" off and after sitting for the night will look like you have coolant in the oil.

Of course if you are pulling out a blue dipstick I guess you have coolant in there. Just trying to give you a ray of hope.

nigel · « **Reply #10 on:** December 07, 2009, 03:38:55 PM »

I just did a headgasket job, and it was pretty easy once i got the tools. The garage I had it towed to (I was 300 miles from home) gave me a quote of $1500, and said it would be 15 hours of labor. I did it in 10, and I'm no pro.
The head bolts are torx-style, and you'll need a special tool (check ebay - I got mine for $20 plus shipping). The tool was definitely worth it, as removing the cams will give a lot more room for error in timing when you put it back together. I picked up a torque wrench from harbor freight for $30-ish, and it seemed to do the trick. I did alright without locking the cams in place, just double and triple checked everything. Just make sure the bottom end deosn't rotate and you'll be alright. And take lots of pictures of where everything is.
Good luck

longms · « **Reply #11 on:** December 07, 2009, 09:45:03 PM »

Ramblin Man- I am slowly thinking that this is more what happened to my car. I compression checked cylinders and they are seem to be the same. I am just going to hold off on the thought of head gasket replacement and keep an I on my fluid levels and what my oil looks like.

Oh yea, one more thing, I got my first estimate on the head gasket from a local ship...$2000 after taxes...are you kidding me? If it has to be done I will be doing it on my own.

Boosted E30 · « **Reply #12 on:** December 08, 2009, 07:49:34 PM »

Quote from: dj91318is;82604

I am abought to to the same. Head Gasket replacement.

Can you remove the head without removing the cams???

yes head can be removed with out taking the cams out its less work but can be frustrating when trying to get all the head bolts and washers out/in. And less of a chance of snapping the cams if you dont take the pressure off/on evenly when removing or installing them.

just need a long 3/8" extention and a E12 torx socket.

dj91318is · « **Reply #13 on:** December 08, 2009, 09:08:52 PM »

Quote from: Boosted E30;82661

yes head can be removed with out taking the cams out its less work but can be frustrating when trying to get all the head bolts and washers out/in. And less of a chance of snapping the cams if you dont take the pressure off/on evenly when removing or installing them.

just need a long 3/8" extention and a E12 torx socket.

Thank You!
I really didn't want to mess with the cam's if not needed.