Is entire Oil pump replacement always necessary?

[91318isguy]

Hi everyone,

Long time no see. Been busy with my wife having a baby and working three jobs this summer. I'm getting my baby back up and running.

I have 2 M42's in question here. Both have ~230k on them. One is sitting partially apart in my old car that a buddy needed the valve cover off of and other than that has had no engine issues. The other is in the car I am currently driving and it developed some issues. Found out the timing components need to be completely changed and so does the oil pump. Here is my question. I am going to swap engines replacing the water pump and all timing components. I am seeing that the "oil pump" replacement has two options to it. One is replacing the entire case which would very well run me ~$400:mad: , OR there is the rotor set (one of the main components to the oil pump) which would only run me ~$60 .

Has anyone ever had "issues" with the oil pump and replaced only the rotor set?

Any help on this would be great. Also with the engine sitting for about 2 years (6 months without the valve cover on it) is there any other issues I need to look out for before dropping it into the car?

Much thanks ahead of time,

Gus

[nicknikolovski]

For oil pump you can just replace the rotor set as this is what runs of the crankshaft but you will need to remove the chain case to replace the rotor set. Once the case is out, get a feeler gauge and check the case to rotor clearance. If the case is out of spec replace it. Usually these things last the life of the engine so should be ok. Up to you whether you want to check it.
Removing the lower chain case to change the oil pump will require replacement of the wierd shaped profile gasket which sits between the case and cylinder head. THIS IS A MUST!
Also don't remove the cylinder head, instead unbolt the oil pan and remove the lower chain case that way.

Also I think there was a superceded part for the oil pump relief valve. I would replace this for sure - costs $9 from pelican parts and very good insurance if your planning on replacing your timing components and keeping the motor for a long time.

As far as the cylinder head without the valve cover on, not sure about this as alot of dirt could have blown on and accumulated on/into the valvetrain. Did you cover the exposed valvetrain components?

[91318isguy]

Yeah, covered it with a garbage bag taped to the block.

So replacing the rotor set will mean I have to take the case off anyway? Would anyone here know the clearance I need, or would someone at BMW tell me that.

[nicknikolovski]

I can't actually find the spec for the rotor to cavity clearance, so when you remove the lower chain case off the block, just inspect the oil pump cavity for wear. (ie hot spots, excessive rubbing, scoring etc.

Valvetrain should be fine if its covered.

[91318isguy]

Coo.

[91318isguy]

Not sure how many hits this'll get, but I just thought I'd drop a line that BMAautoparts.com (you should call them, not just depend on the online inventory) beat out both BMPdesign and Bavarian Autoparts on the following parts I ended up going to BMP design on the clutch kit from Sachs for 240.

All timing guides (upper, lower, tensioner piston side and right), timing chain, tensioner piston, upper and lower timing cover gaskets, valve cover gasket kit, all oil pump components except for the case (including rotor set), water pump (with metal impellar), upper and lower oil pan gaskets, all for $548 shipped.

Some Ford Escort ZX2 owner I'm friends with was giving me crap because I sent $800 on all this stuff. He said, "I can get a crated motor for mine for around $500". Then I asked him how many miles where on his car. He said 120k. I had to reply with, "Well, mine has 230k on it and most of this stuff I probably don't HAVE to do, but I'm doing it since it'll all be apart. And I won't have to screw with it for probably at least another 150 to 200k if ever."

He didn't say much after that.

You know, I hate to sound hoity-toity, but I love my little beemer. It's strong and pretty dang reliable for an 18 year old car. I love these ads that talk about how the new cars are braging about the EPA estimated 30 MPG HWY. I turned to my wife a few times and laughed and said, "I'm getting over 30 in an 18 year old car that takes alot more abuse and is alot more fun to drive." I try to treat it like it's just another car, but the situations I've been in with that thing... I don't know how good it would have been in another vehicle.

[nicknikolovski]

Just a question regarding your mileage. Have you ever replaced the lifters? You may also want to consider these if your planning on keeping the car for a while. While chain is out, it would be a matter of just unbolting the camshafts. However lifters are little on the expensive side - proberbly $20 a lifter x16 valves = $320. Once again its not required but may like to consider it.

Also a good comeback to the escort owner! BIMMER FOR LIFE!

[91318isguy]

Hi Nick. To be honest, I am just hoping this engine lives long enough (50-75k, 95% highway miles) for me to tear the other engine apart and start rebuilding it. So I probably won't do anything majorly internal until I've looked at the other engine first.

[91318isguy]

How would I know it's time to replace the lifters?

[nicknikolovski]

The engine would run a little lumpy as if the valves aren't opening properly, difficulty starting, a lot of ticking noise during cold start up and also if it continues when hot, lifters are gone. Good lifters may tick a little during cold start-up but should stop when warm. Don't get confused with the ticking pulsation noise of the injectors, they always do this. And usually all 16 lifters will not be worn, usually only a couple will go, but they must be changed as a set of 16. I would just leave it - I was simply suggesting it. Good luck with the oil pump, let me know how the engine feels and sounds afterwards.

[BlueBMW]

When you get it up and running let me know and we'll go for a drive.  I live near Knoxville also.